Europe Part 6 - Rome

Tuesday. Leaving Venice.

There's little chance I'll be able to top Venice. Such a dream-like city. I left the jazz club slowly last night, in no hurry to get back to the hotel. My head was on that swivel again, but instead of dodging traffic, I was taking in as many details as possible. Ahh Venice, I will miss you.

After checking out of the Hotel Flora this morning, I hopped on the waterbus one last time at San Marco, and relaxed for the 20 minute cruise along the Grande Canal. A very light drizzle was falling, and I watched the show that is, Venice. Everybody using a boat to do their job... delivering bottled water and crates of cigarettes. Fresh produce and the week's garbage. Back at the train station way too fast, and now I sit on my train to Rome, trying to enjoy my thimble of "black coffee". Time to get South again. A little over 4 hours, on this mean looking Eurostar train.


So it's election day in the States. I voted weeks ago in Arizona's early-voting system. You'd think I could get away from the news over here in Europe, but the US election has been ALL over Europe ever since I arrived. The English news channels at every hotel have talked about 3 things... Britain's F-1 race car champ, Britain's radio talk show scandal, and the American election. There aren't any English newspapers on this train... everything is in Italian. But dollars to donuts every one of those papers have Obama / McCain on the cover.

Stopped in Bologna for a few minutes, with the rain really coming down outside. It's supposed to be pretty damp in Rome all week. Hopefully I'll catch a bit of luck, as there are more than a few "must-see's" in Rome, and most of them are outside.

Wednesday. Rome.

The sun is shining! It was supposed to rain all week, but this morning, as I leave my hostel in search of a newspaper, the sun is shining. Maybe last night's huge, pouring thunderstorms got it out of the system. And this fine morning, the sun is shining.

Last night my train stopped at the Termini Station in Rome, where I hopped off and searched a bit for my hostel, Funny Palace. Silly name, but it was top-ranked on hostelworld.com, and they haven't steered me wrong yet. Just as I found the building, the skies opened up, with lightning and pouring rain. Very nice people at the hostel... free internet, laundry, even a bottle of wine as a welcome gift! I hung out with a girl from Austria, sharing a few glasses.

After an hour or two, I ventured out into the rain, in search of the Colosseum. Stopped for a quick slice of pizza, making quick friends with the owners after they thought my order was messed up. Handshakes all around, and I was back outside, eating pizza in the rain. At least it's warm.

After getting some directions from a kind local, I finally stumbled in view of the Colosseum. The rain pulled back, and even the moon popped out as I walked past the towering ruins. Attempted a few pictures in the dark, before heading back to the hostel, and bed.

Woke up early, to the bright beautiful day in Rome. I was meeting Danielle and Dave, the Aussies I met in Prague, down near the Colosseum. So I hoofed it the mile or so down. We hooked up at the beautiful Arco di Constantino, between the Colosseum and the Roman Forum. Really great to see my Australian friends again, and we signed up to tour the ruins at the Forum. We paid the extra 6 euro for audio guides, winding our way past the 2000 year old buildings. Beautiful setting, with manageable crowds. Surprised me, with how nice the weather was, that we didn't have to wait in line to get in. (It's best to start with the Forum and finish with the Colosseum).

Wandered around the impressively preserved grounds, checking out the Temple of Saturn, the Temple of Vesta, the Temple of Romulus (with it's original bronze door), and the massive Basilica of Maxentius. We learned about Caesar, Augustus, and Nero, before pausing for a rest beneath the Arch of Titus.

The 2nd part of the tour led us through the Farnese Gardens on Palatine Hill, with amazing views of Rome. After an hour in the Gardens, we were ready for lunch, so the 3 of us searched for an Irish Pub, near Mussolini's monstrosity, what many people today call the "Typewriter Building".

Stopped off at the Pub, for a decent chicken sandwich and apple pie. We caught a bus a few blocks, and visited the Pantheon. Amazing dome that still stands today... one of those places you walk inside, look up, and say whoa. Just incredible. There's just no way to capture the inside of this place on camera, so we walked around a bit, in a complete daze.

After the Pantheon, it was just a short walk to the Trevi Fountains. An absolute must-see... so much fun to walk around a regular street corner to find this. Just stunning.... the detail in the statues is unbelievable. Listening to the water, mixed with the crowd noise, under a perfect sky. So so nice.

We pressed on, and relaxed on the Spanish Steps, a popular meeting spot in front of the Spanish Embassy. Rested our weary legs, and caught a subway to the Vatican. Didn't have much time, but the place was so beautiful at night... especially St. Peter's Basilica. Saw the Pope's apartments, and were able to enter the giant church just before closing time.

And here, in St. Peter's, you take a deep breath. I'm not sure how any church could quite compare. This place is simply mind blowing. Stared at the ceiling, paused in front of Michelangelo's statue, and wandered past the high altar, with the dome towering above. Stayed as long as we could, and walked out, almost speechless.

Long day of sight seeing behind us, we met up with one of Dave's Italian cousins and his girlfriend, and he drove us through the insane traffic of Rome, to an outdoor bar, high up in the hills, with great night views of the city. Hung out for a bit, before he had to leave (Dave's cousin plays water polo), but he recommended a good pizzeria nearby for the rest of us. There, Dave, Danielle, and I hung out for hours, enjoying the fantastic pizza and excellent service. The best dish by far was the ham and tomato pizza, complete with a garnish of fried egg. YUM.

Instead of trying to figure out the buses back to my hostel, I opted for the 20 euro cab ride, said farewell to my Australian friends, and turned in for the night.

Thursday. Rome.

A bit burned out this morning. I might need just a relaxed day. I moved into a different room at the hostel and dropped off some laundry before getting the typical Italian breakfast of nothing and nothing (Pastry and Cappachino). The traditional meals over in Europe seem to lacking when it comes to fruits, vegetables, and WATER). Sunny day again outside, and I wandered over to the train station to reserve my seat on Saturday's ride to La Spezia.

After thinking I'd just relax, I instead took the subway to the Colosseum to take the guided tour we missed the day before. There, I met a cool American girl named Ariana, and bumped into Danielle and Dave again. We all were signed up for the audio tour, so we joined forces and entered the massive arena. We followed the halls, listening to the history of the Colosseum. They've recently constructed a replica of the floor, which covered a portion of the basement, that maze of corridors which contained the gladiators, animals, and the complex system of machinery that controlled effects up on the stadium's floor. These effects were pretty amazing... for instance: a beached whale would appear and open its mouth, releasing dozens of live bears. Totally shocking to the 10's of thousands in attendance.

The people who'd visit the Colosseum in Roman times got in for free, and represented all classes. However, woman and some of the poorer people were placed high above, in the worst seats. All in all, it would have been quite the show, back in the day.

After a couple hours of roaming, the four of us left the Colosseum and walked to nearby Campo di Fiore, for a couple sandwiches that Danielle highly recommended. Great little place, although the bologna on display out front was a bit frightening to some, and impressive to others.

We found a spot by a statue in the plaza, enjoying our food and bottles of Pironi. (Drinking beer outside is allowed in Rome... actually in much of Europe). A light rain began to fall as we finished eating, so we retreated to the cover of an outdoor cafe, closed for business. Great time with some great people. Chatted about the States, Australia, and where each of us had been and where we planned to go next. As the rain stopped, we moved to a nearby cafe to have some vino, and listened to the street musicians entertaining the Campo di Fiore crowds.

Alas, Dave and Danielle had to get moving, so we said our goodbyes, and Ariana and I decided on cappachino's and a bit more food. We found the grub at a nearby pizzeria called Baffetto's, which came highly recommended. Such a good time, enjoying some incredible bruscetta and splitting a small pizza.

A day that began with so much road weariness, turned out to be quite nice.

Friday. Rome.

Great night's sleep. Checked out of the hostel, and was surprised with a free breakfast waiting for me in the lobby. I caught the 64 bus from the Termini Station, and luckily grabbed a seat. Supposedly, the 64 is notorious for pick pockets, and I can see why. People were packed in like sardines, wall to wall, and you'd have a hard time noticing a stray hand lifting an unprotected wallet. So... protect your wallet! I've always kept my passport, train tickets, and a credit card in a money belt I wear around my neck. I keep the day's spending cash and my other credit card in my jeans front pocket. And my small backpack that I wear.... eh. If that's stolen it's more of a nuisance than a travesty. Nothing in there but some books, an umbrella, and a hat.

So even with the potential "dangers" on board the 64, it is, along with the 40 bus, the easiest way to get to the major sights in Rome. And today, my destination: back to the Vatican, and Saint Peter's Basilica, and finally the Sistine Chapel in the Vatican Museum.

I lined up in the enormous quite, waiting to get inside the Basilica. Long line, but it moved quickly past the Pope's apartments, and I was inside the giant church within a half hour. Today, I took a right before the main entrance, and took the mini pilgrimage to the top of the dome, followed by the cupola. 320 steps, and not for the faint of heart. You pause a quarter of the way up, where crowds circle the platform on the inside of the huge dome. A large drop down to the floor below, and the ant-sized visitors. Very cool view.

Back in the narrow passageway, I climbed the remaining stairs and walked outside, to a large terrace. Stood for awhile in the warm breeze, looking out over St. Peter's, and the city of Rome. Another beautiful day. I sooo lucked out, since the forecast for the week in Rome looked really bad.

I stopped for lunch at a "Snack Bar" between St. Peter's and the Vatican Museum, where I was unmercifully ripped off. 2 small panini (sandwiches), a bottle of water, and a cup of cappachino set me back 32 euro (about 40 bucks American). They better hope His Holiness wasn't watching, just a few blocks down the street.

Moved on to the Vatican Museum, in search of the Sistine Chapel, and my last sight seeing stop in Rome. I took the advice of one of the hostel workers, who recommended seeing the Museum between 1 and 2 pm. Worked out great... NO lines, and a manageable crowd. I rented one of the audio guides and jumped in.

Wow... so much to see (which is why the audio guides are so great... they can turn 2 or 3 hours in these colossal spaces into a fascinating history lesson, and keep you from getting lost). Started in a courtyard, with beautiful views of St. Peter's next door. Wandered through Egyptian exhibits, but I really loved the huge display of Roman sculptures, especially since we learned about so many of these people during our tour of the Forum. Very well-preserved statues... to name a few, of Tiberius, Augustus, Titus, and Claudius. And I really dug the intricate detail of "The Nile".

And then, on the way to the Sistine Chapel, I passed through the "Map Room". Double WOW. The ceiling stole the show. And finally, we were ushered into the chapel itself, where I grabbed a seat in the middle to look up. So beautiful (but no picture taking allowed --- sorry!). I always thought of Michelangelo's ceiling as primarily the hand of God touching Adam... but the entire room is a work of art. The audio guide was my teacher.. offering tidbits of info like how Michelangelo was reluctant, back in the 1500's, to continue painting. He thought his sculptures were more his cup of tea. The audio guide finished, and I took a few more long stares before finally leaving.

Hopped the subway back to my hotel, and relaxed for the rest of the day. Had a solid traditional Italian dinner down the block. Traditional Italian means 4 courses... my choices today were: 1. Pasta 2. Salad 3. Eggs and Tomatoes 4. Fruit. Not the exact order we'd be used to in the States, but everything was quite good. Back at the hotel, I updated the blog, and turned in early. Early train North was waiting for me tomorrow.

Well that's it for part 6.... the final update, part 7, will include Cinque Terre (another Italian paradise), a couple days off in Nice, and 4 nights not quite tango-ing in Paris. And the big news, is I'll be finishing this blog at HOME!!!! I'm back in the good ole' USofA on Tuesday! CHEERS!!!!!!!