Munich's been good to me, but it's time to roll on. Packed up my gear, and grabbed the free breakfast at our beautiful dining room downstairs, in the Hotel Am Markt. I'd seriously recommend this hotel... the rooms are little but comfortable, and the location cannot be beat, in the heart of old town Munich. I talked with an older German fellow over breakfast, who was heading to the States next week. Really with I had more time to chat, as he was very friendly, and had grown up in late 1930's Munich, just when things started to get crazy. But my train was calling, and I took the long walk through an eerily empty Marianplatz, and now I wait at the Hauptbanhof for Prague.
Ah, Munich. So welcoming... very easy to get around. Aside from our day trip to Dachau, I only used one subway, to the English Garden (which really isn't a bad walk as well). I'll try to remember the little things... roasted almonds while listening to choirs and string quartets in front of the Glockenspiel... the supercool Australian girl Kat, and how she'd switch to an American, valley girl accent "Do you guys, know where I can get, some water?" (u had to be there)... and how all the Aussies I met knew word for word the theme song to the old "Gummy Bears" cartoon.
Foggy outside... an hour into my 6 hour train ride to Prague. Stopping right now in Neufahrn. Comfortable train... I have my own cabin... but there's no food. Glad I have some beef jerky and a cliff bar on this straight shot to Prague. I am curious about the 3 men walking up and down the hall, dressed in green, with pistols. I'll hide behind my passport. Stopped at the border, at Firth I Wald, about to enter the Czech Republic.
And here I am in a new country! The fog has burned off and the sun is shining...forrest terrain outside my window, and much rockier than I've see so far. Stopped in Plzen, an hour or so outside Prague, in a depressing little train station. A guy opens the door to my cabin, sits down, and starts speaking Czech. I apologize, and he switches to English to tell me his sad story and ask for money. A bit unsettling, but I said sorry, can't help (I still only have euros, anyway --- have yet to convert to the Czech Koruna, or Crown), and just like that he left. I saw him outside as our train left, I guess waiting for the next.
Showed up in Prague as the sun was setting, got a bit turned around at the train station, and finally found the right tram to my hostel, Sir Toby's. Amazing place... but a bit outside the center of town. Great people here, not only offering a free map, but disecting it for me, showing me where the best spots were, and how to best get around. I hit up a traditional Czech restaurant down the street they recommended, for some incredible grilled duck, dumplings, and red cabbage. All washed down with some fantastic Pilsner Urquell.
Monday. Prague
Great night of sleep at Sir Toby's. I've got very cool roommates, an older couple from Australia, and we got to know each other at the hostel's bar, located in it's gothic cellar. Very cozy space, although after my feast of duck and dumplings, I could only knock down a cup of tea at the bar. The rooms are spacious, and we've only got 5 beds in ours. There's free internet to catch up on the blog and the world, and I was asleep before 11.
Got an early start, and after a very nice breakfast back in the cellar (hardboiled eggs, granola, and oranges), I caught the tram downtown. I had some time before the walking tour commenced, so I checked out a park on the Vltava River, overlooking the city. Impressive views, under the shadow of Prague's "Metronome". Found out later it replaced a statue of Stalin, and it represents the country's "time for freedom". I climbed back down, and across the bridge I was swallowed by Old Town Prague.
Walked the cobbled sidewalks to the square and met up with our tour guide, a Czech girl who spoke English with a very entertaining accent. We walked the city, checking out Wenceslas Square, the Jewish Quarter, and learning about Czech and Prague history, from the middle ages up to the "Velvet Revolution" in 1989, when the people emerged from behind the Iron Curtain. Many statues along the way, sometimes bizarre... Wenceslas on his horse, and a depiction of local Franz Kafka, and one of his dreams. 3 hours of walking under cloudy skies, but we lucked out and stayed dry.
We finished near an above-ground cemetary in the Jewish Quarter, and I joined up for lunch with Dave and Daniel, a super cool Australian couple who also took the tour. Sat down at a nearbye restaurant for another Czech specialty, goulash. Great food, but better company. Talked about everything from TV ("Friends" is big in Australia) to politics (America is sooooo under the worldwide microscope). Parted ways, hoping to meet up in Rome next month.
I walked deeper into Old Town, setting up a hotel for tomorrow night in Bethleham Square, in the heart of Prague. Now I sit, enjoying a tea, and I'm really starting to catch the vibe in this wonderful city.
Trammed it back to the hostel for one more night. Wandered around a bit, but this side of town shuts down pretty early (hence my move tomorrow). Had some ok pizza next door at this cool little restaurant.. great, cozy little room in the cellar / dungeon, decked out with old radios and funky artifacts from the 40's. Too much food, but it was cheap. Prague still uses the Koruna for currency instead of the euro, and the dollar is starting to go a lot further (as Europe matches our ongoing economic disaster). Basically, 200 Koruna, or crown, which is roughly $10, got me a half liter of Stella, a bottle of water, and a pizza big enough for three. Not bad!
Tuesday. Prague
After a nice hot shower, I picked up my laundry (that the hostel washed and dried for me), grabbed some breakfast, and walked to the train station to reserve my seat to Vienna. Hopped the tram, and 6 stops later I crossed another bridge over the Vltava River, and checked into the hotel. The architecture in the streets is just unreal... statues and carvings poking around the most random of corners. My new lodgings, Hotel Betel, are nice, not too expensive, and in a fantastic location. Signed up for an extra night, dropped my luggage, and headed out into the rain. Grabbing some lunch at U Betlemske Kaple, a restaurant the girl working the desk at the hostel recommended, for some decent food and pretty bad service.
I walked around for most of the afternoon. The morning rain showers finally stopped, and it isn't too cold. The crowds are out, celebrating their Independence Day from 1918. Love getting lost in these streets. Quite the maze, Prague is. The sunset is early, by 5 PM the skies are dark. So I went walking, happy to find my hotel again, and pressed on, crossing the famous "Charles Bridge", which offered spectacular views of Old Town and Prague Castle, lit up like a Christmas tree.
After walking awhile, I found a jazz club for dinner and live music. The service was terrible, the food was pretty lousy, and we only got three songs out of the band. Kind of a scam... but since everything isn't crazy expensive, what can you do. Just wish I had those two hours back. Oh well.. you live and learn...
Wednesday. Prague.
Didn't sleep all that well in my hotel last night. Honestly, the bed at Sir Toby's hostel was much more comfortable. Funny how that works... what you sacrifice for a better location. And this is a PERFECT spot. Hopped downstairs to my hotel's Gothic cellar, and had a decent breakfast, before hitting the shower and heading out into a misting rain. Not enough to drench or require an umbrella. I hiked back across Charles Bridge, getting some better views in the daylight. My destination, Prague Castle, was within sight.
Hopped a tram on the other side of the river, and rode the winding, switchback route to the castle above. I signed up for the audio tour, and made my way into St. Vitus Cathedral, the castle's focal point. Very impressive... hundreds of years to complete, and soooo over the top. I think I prefer it from the outside, just appreciating the incredible Gothic architecture. I wasn't really all that into the audio tour, so I just wandered around, following the Golden Lane to an incredible overlook of the city. And now I sit, enjoying 2 cups of amazing hot chocolate (I only ordered one --- gotta love that service!). Not looking forward to getting back outside... it has turned bitterly cold, and the rain has picked up.
Back near Charles Bridge, instead of crossing it again, I followed the river, through Kampa Park. Found some more of Prague's curious statues in the process. Stopped off in a warm and cozy looking a restaurant, the Stara Praha, and I'm getting good service! The waiter had a hard time explaining the rabbit dish, so he sent somebody over who spoke English. Score! Gonna give it a try, so here goes. Stevie Wonder's playing on the hi-fi, and a British family is dining next to me. It's very nice being out of the cold.
Good lunch. Rabbit, spinach, and of course, dumplings.... with a starter of fried sardines. The fish wasn't bad, although I just couldn't eat the heads. The entire meal was presented beautifully, as has been the case in most of Prague's restaurants that I've visited. Another constant is the collection of dumplings... which are basically soft bread discs. All in all a solid meal, and I took my time, before heading back out into the cold.
It was pretty much a dud when it came to the weather today. The rain didn't quit, and so so cold. Almost 3 weeks into my European trip, and today was by far the worst. Other than that I've been so fortunate, weather-wise. Took a nap back in my hotel room, and bought a ticket for one of the many nightly concerts in the area. It's right down the street, in St. Giles Church. The cathedral is huge, and quite beautiful on the inside, and tucked in with the other buildings down a side street, steps from my hotel. Concert-hopping is big in Prague, and while I'm not usually a big classical fan, this sounds nice on a cold, rainy night. It's a string ensemble, plus the church's 300 year old pipe organ, and they alternate with standards from Mozart, Vivaldi, and Bach.
Just wish I could find some non-traditional restaurant for a light dinner. I'm so over the dumplings and meat. Please please no more. Lucked out with a small sandwich shop, and here I sit, waiting for the concert to begin in exquisite St. Giles Church, founded in 1238. This place would be a national treasure back in the States... yet over here, it's just one of many, tucked in the back alley of a back alley. (Prague is a series of back alleys, streets lined with bricks and tiles).
The concert is a fitting way to wrap up my time in Prague. It really is an amazing city. It reminds me of what you'd picture a medieval "castle town" would be. It took me 4 days to (sort of) figure my way around, but it's a great place to get lost in. The strings are tuning up... can't figure out where they're coming from. Ahhh... here they come, setting up right in the center, in front of the altar. This is very cool. And the sounds are just perfect... the stringed quartet plays a few numbers, and then the pipe organ takes over... the organist is unseen, high up in the rafters behind us. And the strings move into "Ave Maria". Mmmm...
Thursday. Leaving Prague.
On my way. Had a nice walk to the tram stop this morning, the sun is trying to peek through, but rain clouds in the distance are threatening. Good night's sleep, but many elaborate, emotional dreams. Hanging out in Prague's smaller train station, Nadrazi Holesovice, waiting on my train to Vienna.
I really liked Prague... the city is amazing, but hard to find many people who want to speak English. Next time, a hostel near old town would be the way to go. It's funny, I remember when I first arrived, how confusing the city was. But after four days I really started to feel comfortable walking the streets, and following the tram routes. I guess that's been the case everywhere... kinda fun expanding the horizons a bit, eh? The train just passed Brno, the last stop in the Czech Republic. Almost in my fifth country this trip... Austria here I come! Beautiful day outside... I hope it sticks with us in Vienna. Chatted with a girl from Boston in the seat behind me... she's studying in Rome but was visiting friends in Prague.
Quick four hour train ride, and I stepped off into the warm, Austrian sunshine, at Vienna's Sudbanhof (south train station). I phoned Missy, the friend I'd be staying with, and hopped a tram to Hutteldorf in Vienna's 14th district. It's beautiful outside... I can't believe how much warmer it is than Prague. Off the tram, I hopped two quick stops via bus and walked to Missy and her husband Kai's spacious apartment, across a footbridge and above a church.
It was great meeting everybody (Missy is the sister of Larry Workman, First American Title LEGEND). Missy, Kai, and their friend MaryAnn, who was visiting from the states, welcomed me with open arms, and it was VERY nice to speak some English. Missy cooked up some spaghetti, which I promptly inhaled, as it was my first home-cooked meal since London... so long ago. She and MaryAnn left to teach an English class, and Kai and I headed into downtown Vienna. Kai, who's German, speaks the language and was a great tour guide, as we hoofed it past palaces, cathedrals, and my favorite: Rathaus, or City Hall. It was lit up like a castle, and prepped for Christmas, when it would be turned into a gigantic Advent calendar. We hopped a few trams and U-Bahns (subways) to meet up with the ladies, and the four of us hit up one of the infamous coffee houses, Cafe Landtmann. VERY fancy... it's been around forever, and was one of Freud's preferred hangouts. After coffee and buns, we cruised back to the house and chatted till midnight, when I finally retired to my cozy room in the church's basement, complete with its own shower. Great little space, and I slept like a log.
Friday. Vienna.
Woke up to the alarm and headed upstairs for a traditional Austrian breakfast. Such a feast Missy prepared... cold cuts, cheeses, soft-boiled eggs, and AMAZING pumpkin seed muffins. Kai had a busy day, so MaryAnn, Missy, and I hopped the U-Bahn to the city. Walked through a beautiful park (the day was warm and sunny), to Schonbrunn Palace, the "Summer Home" of the infamous Habsburg family. The house was decent, but the uphill walk to the views of Vienna was the highlight by far. Beautiful structure waiting for us at the top of the hill, with intricately detailed statues, and more impressive views from the roof. We hung out for awhile on top of Vienna, before hiking back through the gardens below.
We trammed a bit farther into the city, stopping by Hundertwasserhaus, a funky residential development plopped in the middle of the city, and designed by an almost eccentric local artist, Hundertwasser. Walked the area and finished the day outside of town, starting at the United Nations building, and strolled a few miles along the Danube River. A beautiful walk... the sun was setting, and I was surprised to see so few people out and about, it being such a perfect day. Took a couple scenic trams back home, finishing with the "49'er", which runs right past their house. I walked into downtown Hutteldorf to mow down some sushi, and hit up a local cafe for some espresso and strudel before bed. After so many miles on foot today, I hit the sack hard.
Saturday. Vienna.
Popped upstairs foir another big breakfast with my generous hosts. Kai and Missy have really spoiled me this weekend, and it's been very nice to recharge my batteries before heading to Italy. They had a busy day planned, so MaryAnn and I headed into town. We toured a number of the sights that Kai and I blasted through Thursday night. Checked out Hofburg Palace, paying Mozart a visit. The day was supposed to be rainy and cold, but we lucked out with the opposite. Walked into the heart of Vienna, seeing the Roman ruins, unearthed and on display near the Albertina.
Visited St. Peters next, and while I've seen many cathedrals on this trip, this one is my favorite so far. It's definitely not the biggest, but I couldn't help staring in awe at the painted ceiling / fresco, painted by JM Rottmayr. The area on which St. Peter's stands was once a Roman church, and daily mass has been celebrated here for 1600 years. We paused for a few minutes before leaving, making sure to circle the building. Glad we did... because there on the outer wall was the huge relief sculpture by R. Weyr. My my my...
Strolled downtown Vienna's main drag, Karntnerstrasse, stopping for freshly roasted chestnuts as we circled St. Stephan's cathedral. Huge Gothic-style church, that they've been restoring for years now. Acid rain has taken its toll, turning the walls black, but they are definitely making progress. We stopped inside for a bit, and headed farther down Kartner. Most of the stores were closed for All Saint's Day, but the crowds and street performers were out in full force. Moved a bit further through the city, checking out the Opera House, Neue Hofburg, Volks Garten, and finally the Rathaus (city hall). We passed a large demonstration along the way, with protestors and police keeping tabs on each other.
And then the Rathaus... so beautiful in the setting sun. Made it back home for yet another incredible home-cooked meal... baked chicken with crab stuffing, mashed potatos, and green beens. So nice to skip the restaurants for a few nights... thanks Missy!!! Headed to bed early, as I had an early morning train to catch, to Venice.
That's it for now... I write this after an amazing week in Venice and Rome. But that, my friends, is as they say, another story...
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