Tuesday. Leaving Venice.
There's little chance I'll be able to top Venice. Such a dream-like city. I left the jazz club slowly last night, in no hurry to get back to the hotel. My head was on that swivel again, but instead of dodging traffic, I was taking in as many details as possible. Ahh Venice, I will miss you.
After checking out of the Hotel Flora this morning, I hopped on the waterbus one last time at San Marco, and relaxed for the 20 minute cruise along the Grande Canal. A very light drizzle was falling, and I watched the show that is, Venice. Everybody using a boat to do their job... delivering bottled water and crates of cigarettes. Fresh produce and the week's garbage. Back at the train station way too fast, and now I sit on my train to Rome, trying to enjoy my thimble of "black coffee". Time to get South again. A little over 4 hours, on this mean looking Eurostar train.
So it's election day in the States. I voted weeks ago in Arizona's early-voting system. You'd think I could get away from the news over here in Europe, but the US election has been ALL over Europe ever since I arrived. The English news channels at every hotel have talked about 3 things... Britain's F-1 race car champ, Britain's radio talk show scandal, and the American election. There aren't any English newspapers on this train... everything is in Italian. But dollars to donuts every one of those papers have Obama / McCain on the cover.
Stopped in Bologna for a few minutes, with the rain really coming down outside. It's supposed to be pretty damp in Rome all week. Hopefully I'll catch a bit of luck, as there are more than a few "must-see's" in Rome, and most of them are outside.
Wednesday. Rome.
The sun is shining! It was supposed to rain all week, but this morning, as I leave my hostel in search of a newspaper, the sun is shining. Maybe last night's huge, pouring thunderstorms got it out of the system. And this fine morning, the sun is shining.
Last night my train stopped at the Termini Station in Rome, where I hopped off and searched a bit for my hostel, Funny Palace. Silly name, but it was top-ranked on hostelworld.com, and they haven't steered me wrong yet. Just as I found the building, the skies opened up, with lightning and pouring rain. Very nice people at the hostel... free internet, laundry, even a bottle of wine as a welcome gift! I hung out with a girl from Austria, sharing a few glasses.
After an hour or two, I ventured out into the rain, in search of the Colosseum. Stopped for a quick slice of pizza, making quick friends with the owners after they thought my order was messed up. Handshakes all around, and I was back outside, eating pizza in the rain. At least it's warm.
After getting some directions from a kind local, I finally stumbled in view of the Colosseum. The rain pulled back, and even the moon popped out as I walked past the towering ruins. Attempted a few pictures in the dark, before heading back to the hostel, and bed.
Woke up early, to the bright beautiful day in Rome. I was meeting Danielle and Dave, the Aussies I met in Prague, down near the Colosseum. So I hoofed it the mile or so down. We hooked up at the beautiful Arco di Constantino, between the Colosseum and the Roman Forum. Really great to see my Australian friends again, and we signed up to tour the ruins at the Forum. We paid the extra 6 euro for audio guides, winding our way past the 2000 year old buildings. Beautiful setting, with manageable crowds. Surprised me, with how nice the weather was, that we didn't have to wait in line to get in. (It's best to start with the Forum and finish with the Colosseum).
Wandered around the impressively preserved grounds, checking out the Temple of Saturn, the Temple of Vesta, the Temple of Romulus (with it's original bronze door), and the massive Basilica of Maxentius. We learned about Caesar, Augustus, and Nero, before pausing for a rest beneath the Arch of Titus.
The 2nd part of the tour led us through the Farnese Gardens on Palatine Hill, with amazing views of Rome. After an hour in the Gardens, we were ready for lunch, so the 3 of us searched for an Irish Pub, near Mussolini's monstrosity, what many people today call the "Typewriter Building".
Stopped off at the Pub, for a decent chicken sandwich and apple pie. We caught a bus a few blocks, and visited the Pantheon. Amazing dome that still stands today... one of those places you walk inside, look up, and say whoa. Just incredible. There's just no way to capture the inside of this place on camera, so we walked around a bit, in a complete daze.
After the Pantheon, it was just a short walk to the Trevi Fountains. An absolute must-see... so much fun to walk around a regular street corner to find this. Just stunning.... the detail in the statues is unbelievable. Listening to the water, mixed with the crowd noise, under a perfect sky. So so nice.
We pressed on, and relaxed on the Spanish Steps, a popular meeting spot in front of the Spanish Embassy. Rested our weary legs, and caught a subway to the Vatican. Didn't have much time, but the place was so beautiful at night... especially St. Peter's Basilica. Saw the Pope's apartments, and were able to enter the giant church just before closing time.
And here, in St. Peter's, you take a deep breath. I'm not sure how any church could quite compare. This place is simply mind blowing. Stared at the ceiling, paused in front of Michelangelo's statue, and wandered past the high altar, with the dome towering above. Stayed as long as we could, and walked out, almost speechless.
Long day of sight seeing behind us, we met up with one of Dave's Italian cousins and his girlfriend, and he drove us through the insane traffic of Rome, to an outdoor bar, high up in the hills, with great night views of the city. Hung out for a bit, before he had to leave (Dave's cousin plays water polo), but he recommended a good pizzeria nearby for the rest of us. There, Dave, Danielle, and I hung out for hours, enjoying the fantastic pizza and excellent service. The best dish by far was the ham and tomato pizza, complete with a garnish of fried egg. YUM.
Instead of trying to figure out the buses back to my hostel, I opted for the 20 euro cab ride, said farewell to my Australian friends, and turned in for the night.
Thursday. Rome.
A bit burned out this morning. I might need just a relaxed day. I moved into a different room at the hostel and dropped off some laundry before getting the typical Italian breakfast of nothing and nothing (Pastry and Cappachino). The traditional meals over in Europe seem to lacking when it comes to fruits, vegetables, and WATER). Sunny day again outside, and I wandered over to the train station to reserve my seat on Saturday's ride to La Spezia.
After thinking I'd just relax, I instead took the subway to the Colosseum to take the guided tour we missed the day before. There, I met a cool American girl named Ariana, and bumped into Danielle and Dave again. We all were signed up for the audio tour, so we joined forces and entered the massive arena. We followed the halls, listening to the history of the Colosseum. They've recently constructed a replica of the floor, which covered a portion of the basement, that maze of corridors which contained the gladiators, animals, and the complex system of machinery that controlled effects up on the stadium's floor. These effects were pretty amazing... for instance: a beached whale would appear and open its mouth, releasing dozens of live bears. Totally shocking to the 10's of thousands in attendance.
The people who'd visit the Colosseum in Roman times got in for free, and represented all classes. However, woman and some of the poorer people were placed high above, in the worst seats. All in all, it would have been quite the show, back in the day.
After a couple hours of roaming, the four of us left the Colosseum and walked to nearby Campo di Fiore, for a couple sandwiches that Danielle highly recommended. Great little place, although the bologna on display out front was a bit frightening to some, and impressive to others.
We found a spot by a statue in the plaza, enjoying our food and bottles of Pironi. (Drinking beer outside is allowed in Rome... actually in much of Europe). A light rain began to fall as we finished eating, so we retreated to the cover of an outdoor cafe, closed for business. Great time with some great people. Chatted about the States, Australia, and where each of us had been and where we planned to go next. As the rain stopped, we moved to a nearby cafe to have some vino, and listened to the street musicians entertaining the Campo di Fiore crowds.
Alas, Dave and Danielle had to get moving, so we said our goodbyes, and Ariana and I decided on cappachino's and a bit more food. We found the grub at a nearby pizzeria called Baffetto's, which came highly recommended. Such a good time, enjoying some incredible bruscetta and splitting a small pizza.
A day that began with so much road weariness, turned out to be quite nice.
Friday. Rome.
Great night's sleep. Checked out of the hostel, and was surprised with a free breakfast waiting for me in the lobby. I caught the 64 bus from the Termini Station, and luckily grabbed a seat. Supposedly, the 64 is notorious for pick pockets, and I can see why. People were packed in like sardines, wall to wall, and you'd have a hard time noticing a stray hand lifting an unprotected wallet. So... protect your wallet! I've always kept my passport, train tickets, and a credit card in a money belt I wear around my neck. I keep the day's spending cash and my other credit card in my jeans front pocket. And my small backpack that I wear.... eh. If that's stolen it's more of a nuisance than a travesty. Nothing in there but some books, an umbrella, and a hat.
So even with the potential "dangers" on board the 64, it is, along with the 40 bus, the easiest way to get to the major sights in Rome. And today, my destination: back to the Vatican, and Saint Peter's Basilica, and finally the Sistine Chapel in the Vatican Museum.
I lined up in the enormous quite, waiting to get inside the Basilica. Long line, but it moved quickly past the Pope's apartments, and I was inside the giant church within a half hour. Today, I took a right before the main entrance, and took the mini pilgrimage to the top of the dome, followed by the cupola. 320 steps, and not for the faint of heart. You pause a quarter of the way up, where crowds circle the platform on the inside of the huge dome. A large drop down to the floor below, and the ant-sized visitors. Very cool view.
Back in the narrow passageway, I climbed the remaining stairs and walked outside, to a large terrace. Stood for awhile in the warm breeze, looking out over St. Peter's, and the city of Rome. Another beautiful day. I sooo lucked out, since the forecast for the week in Rome looked really bad.
I stopped for lunch at a "Snack Bar" between St. Peter's and the Vatican Museum, where I was unmercifully ripped off. 2 small panini (sandwiches), a bottle of water, and a cup of cappachino set me back 32 euro (about 40 bucks American). They better hope His Holiness wasn't watching, just a few blocks down the street.
Moved on to the Vatican Museum, in search of the Sistine Chapel, and my last sight seeing stop in Rome. I took the advice of one of the hostel workers, who recommended seeing the Museum between 1 and 2 pm. Worked out great... NO lines, and a manageable crowd. I rented one of the audio guides and jumped in.
Wow... so much to see (which is why the audio guides are so great... they can turn 2 or 3 hours in these colossal spaces into a fascinating history lesson, and keep you from getting lost). Started in a courtyard, with beautiful views of St. Peter's next door. Wandered through Egyptian exhibits, but I really loved the huge display of Roman sculptures, especially since we learned about so many of these people during our tour of the Forum. Very well-preserved statues... to name a few, of Tiberius, Augustus, Titus, and Claudius. And I really dug the intricate detail of "The Nile".
And then, on the way to the Sistine Chapel, I passed through the "Map Room". Double WOW. The ceiling stole the show. And finally, we were ushered into the chapel itself, where I grabbed a seat in the middle to look up. So beautiful (but no picture taking allowed --- sorry!). I always thought of Michelangelo's ceiling as primarily the hand of God touching Adam... but the entire room is a work of art. The audio guide was my teacher.. offering tidbits of info like how Michelangelo was reluctant, back in the 1500's, to continue painting. He thought his sculptures were more his cup of tea. The audio guide finished, and I took a few more long stares before finally leaving.
Hopped the subway back to my hotel, and relaxed for the rest of the day. Had a solid traditional Italian dinner down the block. Traditional Italian means 4 courses... my choices today were: 1. Pasta 2. Salad 3. Eggs and Tomatoes 4. Fruit. Not the exact order we'd be used to in the States, but everything was quite good. Back at the hotel, I updated the blog, and turned in early. Early train North was waiting for me tomorrow.
Well that's it for part 6.... the final update, part 7, will include Cinque Terre (another Italian paradise), a couple days off in Nice, and 4 nights not quite tango-ing in Paris. And the big news, is I'll be finishing this blog at HOME!!!! I'm back in the good ole' USofA on Tuesday! CHEERS!!!!!!!
Europe Part 5 - Venice
Sunday. Leaving Vienna.
Woke up at 4 this morning. It didn't hurt as much as I had feared, and I actually pulled off some decent sleep, my last night in Austria. I'm headed to Italy, with a couple nights in Venice before I conquer Rome. Originally planned on skipping Venice, but Kai and Missy, my gracious Vienna hosts, convinced me that it was well worth it.
I had a brief scare on the way to the train station. Kai had given me great directions... bus to Hutteldorf train station, U-Bahn to Karsplatz Station, and finally the D-Tram to Sudbahnhof, where I'd catch my train to Venice. Pretty simple. But I wasn't counting on the bus driver at the start, asking me where I was going, and telling me he had a BETTER way. Here we go!
He was quite outspoken, from Serbia, and kept talking about bombs and concerts from years past. Since I was the only one on the bus, I was a captive audience, and assumed my plans to Italy had just drastically changed. But it all worked out fine. I'm not sure I really saved any time, but I made it to my final station with 20 minutes to spare.
Taking international trains in Europe is very easy... you don't need to be there 2 hours early like you do when flying. No security checks, all luggage is carry-on, and nobody is checking a passport. You just walk right onto your train, and show your ticket once it starts moving. And here I am, about ready to pass through the Alps on my 7 hour ride to Venice. It's a bit foggy outside, but my coach is half full, the seats are very comfortable, and my iPod is humming. Life is good.
The sun is out... we've risen above the mist. Oh my. It's like I'm riding through a scene from the "Sound of Music". Beautiful mountains rolling by, as we cruise up and over the Austrian Alps. Took a walk up the train to the dining car to enjoy some breakfast with the view. These Austrian hilltowns are just unreal. Snow-capped peaks, livestock wandering on huge green pastures, rivers and streams and mountain lakes, and the sleepy villages, with the occassional chimney blowing smoke. Huge lake to my left, dotted with cottages. I could be in Montatna, if it weren't for the random signs in German. This is between Klagenfurt and Villach, about half hour away from the Italian border.
This definitely is the most picturesque train ride yet. Crossed into Italy, and the mountains are larger than life... just outside my window. Following a wide, rushing river, near Udine, about an hour and 1/2 outside Venice. And then as I dropped down, everything turned California outside! Palm trees... vineyards. And it looks warm... (whatever warm looks like).
"Best friend you'll have is a railroad track..." --- Tom Waits.
Ah Venice. My train stopped at the Mestre Station, where I walked across the street to Hotel Bologna, a Best Western affiliate that Kai and Missy recommended. Very nice room (even with a bidet!). I literally put my bag down, walked back to the station, and took the 10 minute train to the heart of Venice. And there's the water... big and inviting, almost tropical.
A glass of red, surrounded by Venice, on a corner along one of the main alleys, in Campo S. Sofia. The Italian language sounds soooo fantastic. So musical. I've been wandering the past hour, snapping way too many pictures of way too many amazing canals. I need to put the camera away and just breathe. I could get used to this. The skies are overcast, but the air is warm. Almost don't even need the jacket. Reminds me (again) of Southern California, and the marine layer that settles over the beach towns.
Ahh Venice. Ahh McDonald's? I was just thinking that I might actually not see a Mickey D's here, and then not a minute later, there it is. And it's packed. In Venice. I give up... they are EVERYWHERE. I'll let you know when I see the Starbucks.
Got lost as the sun went down. Wandered through the Cannaregio District, before spending most of my time in the San Marco. Kai and Missy said the Piazza at San Marco was a must see, so I made that my "cheese" at the end of the maze. And when I finally stumbled into the plaza, from one of many narrow alleys, I was astonished. Piazza San Marco is HUGE... just incredible that a space so vast lies at the end of so many skinny passageways. I floated... checking out the tower, watching the people and catching a few tunes from one of the bands set up at an outdoor cafe. Found my way back towards the train station, basically following a trail of beautiful churches.
Ahhh Venice. Ahh it's nice to sit down after losing myself for a few hours, along the canals and back alleys. I'm having a veggie pizza in this narrow little cafe, an alley off an alley, and I LOVE hearing the Italian. The beautiful young barmaid, the old regular who stopped in for chips (and I think to flirth with the young barmaid). Can't help but smile. Solid pizza, too. And I think I found a slick little hotel for tomorrow night, in the heart of Venice.
I'm in Italy. No confusing it for Germany, that's for sure. I did that too often in Austria. And I love the vibe in this little pizzeria. The owner just stopped the music to turn up the volume on the F-1 auto race playing on his tv. Ahh Venice. Ahhhh Italy.
It turned foggy along the Grande Canal as I walked back to the train station. It was only about 8 pm, but after waking up so early that morning, my legs were about finished. 10 minutes back to Mestre Station, a few steps across the street, and I was in my bed at the Hotel Bologna.
Monday. Venice.
Had an amazing sleep in my sci-fi hotel room. Headed downstairs for a solid free breakfast, checked out, and took the train back to Venice's core, where I'd reserved a room at the Hotel Flora, near Piazza San Marco. Instead of walking it, this morning I dished out 16 euro for the 24 hour Vaporetto (water bus) card. A bit confisuing on which was the best boat to take to San Marco, but I chose wisely, and sped towards the hotel. Since there are no cars in Venice, and water taxis are astronomically expenisive, this is the best way to travel aside from walking.
Got off at Accademia, a stop along the Grande Canal before crowded San Marco, and walked to my hotel, tucked down a narrow alley off the main drag. Cool little room, but the highlight is the garden behind the hotel, where I now sit, enjoying a cappachino. Hotel Flora... fantastic location in the heart of Venice. A comfortable room, decent price... seems way too good to be true.
Wandered the streets and alleys around my hotel. I've got the Bvlgari shop next door just in case I want to buy some jewelry or watches or groceries. Branched out to a couple districts I'd yet to visit, San Polo and Santa Croce. Listening to the iPod... the sun's trying to poke through the clouds, and the temp is perfect. Resting on a bench in Campos Giacomo Da L'Orio.
After a few hours checking out the sights, walking the boardwalk near San Marco, and stopping for a lunch of delicious mini-sandwiches, I rested back at the hotel. Ahh, Venice. Ahhh Italian TV... dubbed MacGuyver and George Clooney shilling for Nespresso. This place, Venice, is going to seem like a dream after I've left. I love it when I have to stop, think, and remind myself just what country I'm in today.
Ahh Venice. Ahh Venice Jazz Club! I just walked into a quartet that's featuring the works of jazz pianist Bill Evans. This was a gamble tonight... I found the place on an earlier walk... down a back alley off one of the canals. Tiny place, expensive to get in, with the proverbial "Jazz" sign out front. But man did that gamble pay off. The band sounds super-tight, now covering a version of "Alice in Wonderland". This is a perfect way to cap my two nights in Venice. Venice, the dream.
Woke up at 4 this morning. It didn't hurt as much as I had feared, and I actually pulled off some decent sleep, my last night in Austria. I'm headed to Italy, with a couple nights in Venice before I conquer Rome. Originally planned on skipping Venice, but Kai and Missy, my gracious Vienna hosts, convinced me that it was well worth it.
I had a brief scare on the way to the train station. Kai had given me great directions... bus to Hutteldorf train station, U-Bahn to Karsplatz Station, and finally the D-Tram to Sudbahnhof, where I'd catch my train to Venice. Pretty simple. But I wasn't counting on the bus driver at the start, asking me where I was going, and telling me he had a BETTER way. Here we go!
He was quite outspoken, from Serbia, and kept talking about bombs and concerts from years past. Since I was the only one on the bus, I was a captive audience, and assumed my plans to Italy had just drastically changed. But it all worked out fine. I'm not sure I really saved any time, but I made it to my final station with 20 minutes to spare.
Taking international trains in Europe is very easy... you don't need to be there 2 hours early like you do when flying. No security checks, all luggage is carry-on, and nobody is checking a passport. You just walk right onto your train, and show your ticket once it starts moving. And here I am, about ready to pass through the Alps on my 7 hour ride to Venice. It's a bit foggy outside, but my coach is half full, the seats are very comfortable, and my iPod is humming. Life is good.
The sun is out... we've risen above the mist. Oh my. It's like I'm riding through a scene from the "Sound of Music". Beautiful mountains rolling by, as we cruise up and over the Austrian Alps. Took a walk up the train to the dining car to enjoy some breakfast with the view. These Austrian hilltowns are just unreal. Snow-capped peaks, livestock wandering on huge green pastures, rivers and streams and mountain lakes, and the sleepy villages, with the occassional chimney blowing smoke. Huge lake to my left, dotted with cottages. I could be in Montatna, if it weren't for the random signs in German. This is between Klagenfurt and Villach, about half hour away from the Italian border.
This definitely is the most picturesque train ride yet. Crossed into Italy, and the mountains are larger than life... just outside my window. Following a wide, rushing river, near Udine, about an hour and 1/2 outside Venice. And then as I dropped down, everything turned California outside! Palm trees... vineyards. And it looks warm... (whatever warm looks like).
"Best friend you'll have is a railroad track..." --- Tom Waits.
Ah Venice. My train stopped at the Mestre Station, where I walked across the street to Hotel Bologna, a Best Western affiliate that Kai and Missy recommended. Very nice room (even with a bidet!). I literally put my bag down, walked back to the station, and took the 10 minute train to the heart of Venice. And there's the water... big and inviting, almost tropical.
A glass of red, surrounded by Venice, on a corner along one of the main alleys, in Campo S. Sofia. The Italian language sounds soooo fantastic. So musical. I've been wandering the past hour, snapping way too many pictures of way too many amazing canals. I need to put the camera away and just breathe. I could get used to this. The skies are overcast, but the air is warm. Almost don't even need the jacket. Reminds me (again) of Southern California, and the marine layer that settles over the beach towns.
Ahh Venice. Ahh McDonald's? I was just thinking that I might actually not see a Mickey D's here, and then not a minute later, there it is. And it's packed. In Venice. I give up... they are EVERYWHERE. I'll let you know when I see the Starbucks.
Got lost as the sun went down. Wandered through the Cannaregio District, before spending most of my time in the San Marco. Kai and Missy said the Piazza at San Marco was a must see, so I made that my "cheese" at the end of the maze. And when I finally stumbled into the plaza, from one of many narrow alleys, I was astonished. Piazza San Marco is HUGE... just incredible that a space so vast lies at the end of so many skinny passageways. I floated... checking out the tower, watching the people and catching a few tunes from one of the bands set up at an outdoor cafe. Found my way back towards the train station, basically following a trail of beautiful churches.
Ahhh Venice. Ahh it's nice to sit down after losing myself for a few hours, along the canals and back alleys. I'm having a veggie pizza in this narrow little cafe, an alley off an alley, and I LOVE hearing the Italian. The beautiful young barmaid, the old regular who stopped in for chips (and I think to flirth with the young barmaid). Can't help but smile. Solid pizza, too. And I think I found a slick little hotel for tomorrow night, in the heart of Venice.
I'm in Italy. No confusing it for Germany, that's for sure. I did that too often in Austria. And I love the vibe in this little pizzeria. The owner just stopped the music to turn up the volume on the F-1 auto race playing on his tv. Ahh Venice. Ahhhh Italy.
It turned foggy along the Grande Canal as I walked back to the train station. It was only about 8 pm, but after waking up so early that morning, my legs were about finished. 10 minutes back to Mestre Station, a few steps across the street, and I was in my bed at the Hotel Bologna.
Monday. Venice.
Had an amazing sleep in my sci-fi hotel room. Headed downstairs for a solid free breakfast, checked out, and took the train back to Venice's core, where I'd reserved a room at the Hotel Flora, near Piazza San Marco. Instead of walking it, this morning I dished out 16 euro for the 24 hour Vaporetto (water bus) card. A bit confisuing on which was the best boat to take to San Marco, but I chose wisely, and sped towards the hotel. Since there are no cars in Venice, and water taxis are astronomically expenisive, this is the best way to travel aside from walking.
Got off at Accademia, a stop along the Grande Canal before crowded San Marco, and walked to my hotel, tucked down a narrow alley off the main drag. Cool little room, but the highlight is the garden behind the hotel, where I now sit, enjoying a cappachino. Hotel Flora... fantastic location in the heart of Venice. A comfortable room, decent price... seems way too good to be true.
Wandered the streets and alleys around my hotel. I've got the Bvlgari shop next door just in case I want to buy some jewelry or watches or groceries. Branched out to a couple districts I'd yet to visit, San Polo and Santa Croce. Listening to the iPod... the sun's trying to poke through the clouds, and the temp is perfect. Resting on a bench in Campos Giacomo Da L'Orio.
After a few hours checking out the sights, walking the boardwalk near San Marco, and stopping for a lunch of delicious mini-sandwiches, I rested back at the hotel. Ahh, Venice. Ahhh Italian TV... dubbed MacGuyver and George Clooney shilling for Nespresso. This place, Venice, is going to seem like a dream after I've left. I love it when I have to stop, think, and remind myself just what country I'm in today.
Ahh Venice. Ahh Venice Jazz Club! I just walked into a quartet that's featuring the works of jazz pianist Bill Evans. This was a gamble tonight... I found the place on an earlier walk... down a back alley off one of the canals. Tiny place, expensive to get in, with the proverbial "Jazz" sign out front. But man did that gamble pay off. The band sounds super-tight, now covering a version of "Alice in Wonderland". This is a perfect way to cap my two nights in Venice. Venice, the dream.
Europe Part 4 - Prague, Vienna
Sunday, October 26. Leaving Munich
Munich's been good to me, but it's time to roll on. Packed up my gear, and grabbed the free breakfast at our beautiful dining room downstairs, in the Hotel Am Markt. I'd seriously recommend this hotel... the rooms are little but comfortable, and the location cannot be beat, in the heart of old town Munich. I talked with an older German fellow over breakfast, who was heading to the States next week. Really with I had more time to chat, as he was very friendly, and had grown up in late 1930's Munich, just when things started to get crazy. But my train was calling, and I took the long walk through an eerily empty Marianplatz, and now I wait at the Hauptbanhof for Prague.
Ah, Munich. So welcoming... very easy to get around. Aside from our day trip to Dachau, I only used one subway, to the English Garden (which really isn't a bad walk as well). I'll try to remember the little things... roasted almonds while listening to choirs and string quartets in front of the Glockenspiel... the supercool Australian girl Kat, and how she'd switch to an American, valley girl accent "Do you guys, know where I can get, some water?" (u had to be there)... and how all the Aussies I met knew word for word the theme song to the old "Gummy Bears" cartoon.
Foggy outside... an hour into my 6 hour train ride to Prague. Stopping right now in Neufahrn. Comfortable train... I have my own cabin... but there's no food. Glad I have some beef jerky and a cliff bar on this straight shot to Prague. I am curious about the 3 men walking up and down the hall, dressed in green, with pistols. I'll hide behind my passport. Stopped at the border, at Firth I Wald, about to enter the Czech Republic.
And here I am in a new country! The fog has burned off and the sun is shining...forrest terrain outside my window, and much rockier than I've see so far. Stopped in Plzen, an hour or so outside Prague, in a depressing little train station. A guy opens the door to my cabin, sits down, and starts speaking Czech. I apologize, and he switches to English to tell me his sad story and ask for money. A bit unsettling, but I said sorry, can't help (I still only have euros, anyway --- have yet to convert to the Czech Koruna, or Crown), and just like that he left. I saw him outside as our train left, I guess waiting for the next.
Showed up in Prague as the sun was setting, got a bit turned around at the train station, and finally found the right tram to my hostel, Sir Toby's. Amazing place... but a bit outside the center of town. Great people here, not only offering a free map, but disecting it for me, showing me where the best spots were, and how to best get around. I hit up a traditional Czech restaurant down the street they recommended, for some incredible grilled duck, dumplings, and red cabbage. All washed down with some fantastic Pilsner Urquell.
Monday. Prague
Great night of sleep at Sir Toby's. I've got very cool roommates, an older couple from Australia, and we got to know each other at the hostel's bar, located in it's gothic cellar. Very cozy space, although after my feast of duck and dumplings, I could only knock down a cup of tea at the bar. The rooms are spacious, and we've only got 5 beds in ours. There's free internet to catch up on the blog and the world, and I was asleep before 11.
Got an early start, and after a very nice breakfast back in the cellar (hardboiled eggs, granola, and oranges), I caught the tram downtown. I had some time before the walking tour commenced, so I checked out a park on the Vltava River, overlooking the city. Impressive views, under the shadow of Prague's "Metronome". Found out later it replaced a statue of Stalin, and it represents the country's "time for freedom". I climbed back down, and across the bridge I was swallowed by Old Town Prague.
Walked the cobbled sidewalks to the square and met up with our tour guide, a Czech girl who spoke English with a very entertaining accent. We walked the city, checking out Wenceslas Square, the Jewish Quarter, and learning about Czech and Prague history, from the middle ages up to the "Velvet Revolution" in 1989, when the people emerged from behind the Iron Curtain. Many statues along the way, sometimes bizarre... Wenceslas on his horse, and a depiction of local Franz Kafka, and one of his dreams. 3 hours of walking under cloudy skies, but we lucked out and stayed dry.
We finished near an above-ground cemetary in the Jewish Quarter, and I joined up for lunch with Dave and Daniel, a super cool Australian couple who also took the tour. Sat down at a nearbye restaurant for another Czech specialty, goulash. Great food, but better company. Talked about everything from TV ("Friends" is big in Australia) to politics (America is sooooo under the worldwide microscope). Parted ways, hoping to meet up in Rome next month.
I walked deeper into Old Town, setting up a hotel for tomorrow night in Bethleham Square, in the heart of Prague. Now I sit, enjoying a tea, and I'm really starting to catch the vibe in this wonderful city.
Trammed it back to the hostel for one more night. Wandered around a bit, but this side of town shuts down pretty early (hence my move tomorrow). Had some ok pizza next door at this cool little restaurant.. great, cozy little room in the cellar / dungeon, decked out with old radios and funky artifacts from the 40's. Too much food, but it was cheap. Prague still uses the Koruna for currency instead of the euro, and the dollar is starting to go a lot further (as Europe matches our ongoing economic disaster). Basically, 200 Koruna, or crown, which is roughly $10, got me a half liter of Stella, a bottle of water, and a pizza big enough for three. Not bad!
Tuesday. Prague
After a nice hot shower, I picked up my laundry (that the hostel washed and dried for me), grabbed some breakfast, and walked to the train station to reserve my seat to Vienna. Hopped the tram, and 6 stops later I crossed another bridge over the Vltava River, and checked into the hotel. The architecture in the streets is just unreal... statues and carvings poking around the most random of corners. My new lodgings, Hotel Betel, are nice, not too expensive, and in a fantastic location. Signed up for an extra night, dropped my luggage, and headed out into the rain. Grabbing some lunch at U Betlemske Kaple, a restaurant the girl working the desk at the hostel recommended, for some decent food and pretty bad service.
I walked around for most of the afternoon. The morning rain showers finally stopped, and it isn't too cold. The crowds are out, celebrating their Independence Day from 1918. Love getting lost in these streets. Quite the maze, Prague is. The sunset is early, by 5 PM the skies are dark. So I went walking, happy to find my hotel again, and pressed on, crossing the famous "Charles Bridge", which offered spectacular views of Old Town and Prague Castle, lit up like a Christmas tree.
After walking awhile, I found a jazz club for dinner and live music. The service was terrible, the food was pretty lousy, and we only got three songs out of the band. Kind of a scam... but since everything isn't crazy expensive, what can you do. Just wish I had those two hours back. Oh well.. you live and learn...
Wednesday. Prague.
Didn't sleep all that well in my hotel last night. Honestly, the bed at Sir Toby's hostel was much more comfortable. Funny how that works... what you sacrifice for a better location. And this is a PERFECT spot. Hopped downstairs to my hotel's Gothic cellar, and had a decent breakfast, before hitting the shower and heading out into a misting rain. Not enough to drench or require an umbrella. I hiked back across Charles Bridge, getting some better views in the daylight. My destination, Prague Castle, was within sight.
Munich's been good to me, but it's time to roll on. Packed up my gear, and grabbed the free breakfast at our beautiful dining room downstairs, in the Hotel Am Markt. I'd seriously recommend this hotel... the rooms are little but comfortable, and the location cannot be beat, in the heart of old town Munich. I talked with an older German fellow over breakfast, who was heading to the States next week. Really with I had more time to chat, as he was very friendly, and had grown up in late 1930's Munich, just when things started to get crazy. But my train was calling, and I took the long walk through an eerily empty Marianplatz, and now I wait at the Hauptbanhof for Prague.
Ah, Munich. So welcoming... very easy to get around. Aside from our day trip to Dachau, I only used one subway, to the English Garden (which really isn't a bad walk as well). I'll try to remember the little things... roasted almonds while listening to choirs and string quartets in front of the Glockenspiel... the supercool Australian girl Kat, and how she'd switch to an American, valley girl accent "Do you guys, know where I can get, some water?" (u had to be there)... and how all the Aussies I met knew word for word the theme song to the old "Gummy Bears" cartoon.
Foggy outside... an hour into my 6 hour train ride to Prague. Stopping right now in Neufahrn. Comfortable train... I have my own cabin... but there's no food. Glad I have some beef jerky and a cliff bar on this straight shot to Prague. I am curious about the 3 men walking up and down the hall, dressed in green, with pistols. I'll hide behind my passport. Stopped at the border, at Firth I Wald, about to enter the Czech Republic.
And here I am in a new country! The fog has burned off and the sun is shining...forrest terrain outside my window, and much rockier than I've see so far. Stopped in Plzen, an hour or so outside Prague, in a depressing little train station. A guy opens the door to my cabin, sits down, and starts speaking Czech. I apologize, and he switches to English to tell me his sad story and ask for money. A bit unsettling, but I said sorry, can't help (I still only have euros, anyway --- have yet to convert to the Czech Koruna, or Crown), and just like that he left. I saw him outside as our train left, I guess waiting for the next.
Showed up in Prague as the sun was setting, got a bit turned around at the train station, and finally found the right tram to my hostel, Sir Toby's. Amazing place... but a bit outside the center of town. Great people here, not only offering a free map, but disecting it for me, showing me where the best spots were, and how to best get around. I hit up a traditional Czech restaurant down the street they recommended, for some incredible grilled duck, dumplings, and red cabbage. All washed down with some fantastic Pilsner Urquell.
Monday. Prague
Great night of sleep at Sir Toby's. I've got very cool roommates, an older couple from Australia, and we got to know each other at the hostel's bar, located in it's gothic cellar. Very cozy space, although after my feast of duck and dumplings, I could only knock down a cup of tea at the bar. The rooms are spacious, and we've only got 5 beds in ours. There's free internet to catch up on the blog and the world, and I was asleep before 11.
Got an early start, and after a very nice breakfast back in the cellar (hardboiled eggs, granola, and oranges), I caught the tram downtown. I had some time before the walking tour commenced, so I checked out a park on the Vltava River, overlooking the city. Impressive views, under the shadow of Prague's "Metronome". Found out later it replaced a statue of Stalin, and it represents the country's "time for freedom". I climbed back down, and across the bridge I was swallowed by Old Town Prague.
Walked the cobbled sidewalks to the square and met up with our tour guide, a Czech girl who spoke English with a very entertaining accent. We walked the city, checking out Wenceslas Square, the Jewish Quarter, and learning about Czech and Prague history, from the middle ages up to the "Velvet Revolution" in 1989, when the people emerged from behind the Iron Curtain. Many statues along the way, sometimes bizarre... Wenceslas on his horse, and a depiction of local Franz Kafka, and one of his dreams. 3 hours of walking under cloudy skies, but we lucked out and stayed dry.
We finished near an above-ground cemetary in the Jewish Quarter, and I joined up for lunch with Dave and Daniel, a super cool Australian couple who also took the tour. Sat down at a nearbye restaurant for another Czech specialty, goulash. Great food, but better company. Talked about everything from TV ("Friends" is big in Australia) to politics (America is sooooo under the worldwide microscope). Parted ways, hoping to meet up in Rome next month.
I walked deeper into Old Town, setting up a hotel for tomorrow night in Bethleham Square, in the heart of Prague. Now I sit, enjoying a tea, and I'm really starting to catch the vibe in this wonderful city.
Trammed it back to the hostel for one more night. Wandered around a bit, but this side of town shuts down pretty early (hence my move tomorrow). Had some ok pizza next door at this cool little restaurant.. great, cozy little room in the cellar / dungeon, decked out with old radios and funky artifacts from the 40's. Too much food, but it was cheap. Prague still uses the Koruna for currency instead of the euro, and the dollar is starting to go a lot further (as Europe matches our ongoing economic disaster). Basically, 200 Koruna, or crown, which is roughly $10, got me a half liter of Stella, a bottle of water, and a pizza big enough for three. Not bad!
Tuesday. Prague
After a nice hot shower, I picked up my laundry (that the hostel washed and dried for me), grabbed some breakfast, and walked to the train station to reserve my seat to Vienna. Hopped the tram, and 6 stops later I crossed another bridge over the Vltava River, and checked into the hotel. The architecture in the streets is just unreal... statues and carvings poking around the most random of corners. My new lodgings, Hotel Betel, are nice, not too expensive, and in a fantastic location. Signed up for an extra night, dropped my luggage, and headed out into the rain. Grabbing some lunch at U Betlemske Kaple, a restaurant the girl working the desk at the hostel recommended, for some decent food and pretty bad service.
I walked around for most of the afternoon. The morning rain showers finally stopped, and it isn't too cold. The crowds are out, celebrating their Independence Day from 1918. Love getting lost in these streets. Quite the maze, Prague is. The sunset is early, by 5 PM the skies are dark. So I went walking, happy to find my hotel again, and pressed on, crossing the famous "Charles Bridge", which offered spectacular views of Old Town and Prague Castle, lit up like a Christmas tree.
After walking awhile, I found a jazz club for dinner and live music. The service was terrible, the food was pretty lousy, and we only got three songs out of the band. Kind of a scam... but since everything isn't crazy expensive, what can you do. Just wish I had those two hours back. Oh well.. you live and learn...
Wednesday. Prague.
Didn't sleep all that well in my hotel last night. Honestly, the bed at Sir Toby's hostel was much more comfortable. Funny how that works... what you sacrifice for a better location. And this is a PERFECT spot. Hopped downstairs to my hotel's Gothic cellar, and had a decent breakfast, before hitting the shower and heading out into a misting rain. Not enough to drench or require an umbrella. I hiked back across Charles Bridge, getting some better views in the daylight. My destination, Prague Castle, was within sight.
Hopped a tram on the other side of the river, and rode the winding, switchback route to the castle above. I signed up for the audio tour, and made my way into St. Vitus Cathedral, the castle's focal point. Very impressive... hundreds of years to complete, and soooo over the top. I think I prefer it from the outside, just appreciating the incredible Gothic architecture. I wasn't really all that into the audio tour, so I just wandered around, following the Golden Lane to an incredible overlook of the city. And now I sit, enjoying 2 cups of amazing hot chocolate (I only ordered one --- gotta love that service!). Not looking forward to getting back outside... it has turned bitterly cold, and the rain has picked up.
Back near Charles Bridge, instead of crossing it again, I followed the river, through Kampa Park. Found some more of Prague's curious statues in the process. Stopped off in a warm and cozy looking a restaurant, the Stara Praha, and I'm getting good service! The waiter had a hard time explaining the rabbit dish, so he sent somebody over who spoke English. Score! Gonna give it a try, so here goes. Stevie Wonder's playing on the hi-fi, and a British family is dining next to me. It's very nice being out of the cold.
Good lunch. Rabbit, spinach, and of course, dumplings.... with a starter of fried sardines. The fish wasn't bad, although I just couldn't eat the heads. The entire meal was presented beautifully, as has been the case in most of Prague's restaurants that I've visited. Another constant is the collection of dumplings... which are basically soft bread discs. All in all a solid meal, and I took my time, before heading back out into the cold.
It was pretty much a dud when it came to the weather today. The rain didn't quit, and so so cold. Almost 3 weeks into my European trip, and today was by far the worst. Other than that I've been so fortunate, weather-wise. Took a nap back in my hotel room, and bought a ticket for one of the many nightly concerts in the area. It's right down the street, in St. Giles Church. The cathedral is huge, and quite beautiful on the inside, and tucked in with the other buildings down a side street, steps from my hotel. Concert-hopping is big in Prague, and while I'm not usually a big classical fan, this sounds nice on a cold, rainy night. It's a string ensemble, plus the church's 300 year old pipe organ, and they alternate with standards from Mozart, Vivaldi, and Bach.
Just wish I could find some non-traditional restaurant for a light dinner. I'm so over the dumplings and meat. Please please no more. Lucked out with a small sandwich shop, and here I sit, waiting for the concert to begin in exquisite St. Giles Church, founded in 1238. This place would be a national treasure back in the States... yet over here, it's just one of many, tucked in the back alley of a back alley. (Prague is a series of back alleys, streets lined with bricks and tiles).
The concert is a fitting way to wrap up my time in Prague. It really is an amazing city. It reminds me of what you'd picture a medieval "castle town" would be. It took me 4 days to (sort of) figure my way around, but it's a great place to get lost in. The strings are tuning up... can't figure out where they're coming from. Ahhh... here they come, setting up right in the center, in front of the altar. This is very cool. And the sounds are just perfect... the stringed quartet plays a few numbers, and then the pipe organ takes over... the organist is unseen, high up in the rafters behind us. And the strings move into "Ave Maria". Mmmm...
Thursday. Leaving Prague.
On my way. Had a nice walk to the tram stop this morning, the sun is trying to peek through, but rain clouds in the distance are threatening. Good night's sleep, but many elaborate, emotional dreams. Hanging out in Prague's smaller train station, Nadrazi Holesovice, waiting on my train to Vienna.
I really liked Prague... the city is amazing, but hard to find many people who want to speak English. Next time, a hostel near old town would be the way to go. It's funny, I remember when I first arrived, how confusing the city was. But after four days I really started to feel comfortable walking the streets, and following the tram routes. I guess that's been the case everywhere... kinda fun expanding the horizons a bit, eh? The train just passed Brno, the last stop in the Czech Republic. Almost in my fifth country this trip... Austria here I come! Beautiful day outside... I hope it sticks with us in Vienna. Chatted with a girl from Boston in the seat behind me... she's studying in Rome but was visiting friends in Prague.
Quick four hour train ride, and I stepped off into the warm, Austrian sunshine, at Vienna's Sudbanhof (south train station). I phoned Missy, the friend I'd be staying with, and hopped a tram to Hutteldorf in Vienna's 14th district. It's beautiful outside... I can't believe how much warmer it is than Prague. Off the tram, I hopped two quick stops via bus and walked to Missy and her husband Kai's spacious apartment, across a footbridge and above a church.
It was great meeting everybody (Missy is the sister of Larry Workman, First American Title LEGEND). Missy, Kai, and their friend MaryAnn, who was visiting from the states, welcomed me with open arms, and it was VERY nice to speak some English. Missy cooked up some spaghetti, which I promptly inhaled, as it was my first home-cooked meal since London... so long ago. She and MaryAnn left to teach an English class, and Kai and I headed into downtown Vienna. Kai, who's German, speaks the language and was a great tour guide, as we hoofed it past palaces, cathedrals, and my favorite: Rathaus, or City Hall. It was lit up like a castle, and prepped for Christmas, when it would be turned into a gigantic Advent calendar. We hopped a few trams and U-Bahns (subways) to meet up with the ladies, and the four of us hit up one of the infamous coffee houses, Cafe Landtmann. VERY fancy... it's been around forever, and was one of Freud's preferred hangouts. After coffee and buns, we cruised back to the house and chatted till midnight, when I finally retired to my cozy room in the church's basement, complete with its own shower. Great little space, and I slept like a log.
Friday. Vienna.
Woke up to the alarm and headed upstairs for a traditional Austrian breakfast. Such a feast Missy prepared... cold cuts, cheeses, soft-boiled eggs, and AMAZING pumpkin seed muffins. Kai had a busy day, so MaryAnn, Missy, and I hopped the U-Bahn to the city. Walked through a beautiful park (the day was warm and sunny), to Schonbrunn Palace, the "Summer Home" of the infamous Habsburg family. The house was decent, but the uphill walk to the views of Vienna was the highlight by far. Beautiful structure waiting for us at the top of the hill, with intricately detailed statues, and more impressive views from the roof. We hung out for awhile on top of Vienna, before hiking back through the gardens below.
We trammed a bit farther into the city, stopping by Hundertwasserhaus, a funky residential development plopped in the middle of the city, and designed by an almost eccentric local artist, Hundertwasser. Walked the area and finished the day outside of town, starting at the United Nations building, and strolled a few miles along the Danube River. A beautiful walk... the sun was setting, and I was surprised to see so few people out and about, it being such a perfect day. Took a couple scenic trams back home, finishing with the "49'er", which runs right past their house. I walked into downtown Hutteldorf to mow down some sushi, and hit up a local cafe for some espresso and strudel before bed. After so many miles on foot today, I hit the sack hard.
Saturday. Vienna.
Popped upstairs foir another big breakfast with my generous hosts. Kai and Missy have really spoiled me this weekend, and it's been very nice to recharge my batteries before heading to Italy. They had a busy day planned, so MaryAnn and I headed into town. We toured a number of the sights that Kai and I blasted through Thursday night. Checked out Hofburg Palace, paying Mozart a visit. The day was supposed to be rainy and cold, but we lucked out with the opposite. Walked into the heart of Vienna, seeing the Roman ruins, unearthed and on display near the Albertina.
Visited St. Peters next, and while I've seen many cathedrals on this trip, this one is my favorite so far. It's definitely not the biggest, but I couldn't help staring in awe at the painted ceiling / fresco, painted by JM Rottmayr. The area on which St. Peter's stands was once a Roman church, and daily mass has been celebrated here for 1600 years. We paused for a few minutes before leaving, making sure to circle the building. Glad we did... because there on the outer wall was the huge relief sculpture by R. Weyr. My my my...
Strolled downtown Vienna's main drag, Karntnerstrasse, stopping for freshly roasted chestnuts as we circled St. Stephan's cathedral. Huge Gothic-style church, that they've been restoring for years now. Acid rain has taken its toll, turning the walls black, but they are definitely making progress. We stopped inside for a bit, and headed farther down Kartner. Most of the stores were closed for All Saint's Day, but the crowds and street performers were out in full force. Moved a bit further through the city, checking out the Opera House, Neue Hofburg, Volks Garten, and finally the Rathaus (city hall). We passed a large demonstration along the way, with protestors and police keeping tabs on each other.
And then the Rathaus... so beautiful in the setting sun. Made it back home for yet another incredible home-cooked meal... baked chicken with crab stuffing, mashed potatos, and green beens. So nice to skip the restaurants for a few nights... thanks Missy!!! Headed to bed early, as I had an early morning train to catch, to Venice.
That's it for now... I write this after an amazing week in Venice and Rome. But that, my friends, is as they say, another story...
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