Saturday, November 8. Leaving Rome.
Here I am, on Day 30 of this European adventure. Feelin' real good this morning. My room at the Hotel Piemonte was a bit noisy, but I had no problem sleeping. Checked out, and was pleasantly surprised to find that they opened the restaurant for breakfast earlier than posted. Inhaled some granola and coffee, and walked the 10 minutes to my train, where I now sit. Another beautiful morning in Italy.
I have two neighbors in my train compartment built for 6. The woman started speaking very kindly in Italian to me.. I smiled and gave her "non capisco" and "parla inglese?", but no dice. Really wish I spoke Italian (and German, and Czech, and Japanese. Not Dutch). She kept talking to me, even after the other passenger told her "inglese!". I can't speak it, but I love hearing it. She finally gave up on me, and started up a conversation with the other rider.
On my way to La Spezia this morning, about 4 hours NW of Rome. From there, I'm (kind of) winging it, and will search for Cinque Terre, a collection of 5 seaside villages, separated by vineyards. Comes highly recommended by Joe back in London, as well as a number of people I've met along my travels. We'll see if I can actually find it... I just barely learned how to spell it.
Train's moving up the coast now... the Mediterranean outside my window. Ah, Italy. The sea is calm. Passing old beatup seatowns, and a sparkling, shiny new cruise ship in Civitavecchia. Wow... multiple cruise ships! And an aircraft carrier to keep them company. Quite the port town, but mostly industrial, from what I can see.
Stopping in Grosseto, almost halfway there. I like taking these train trips during the day... being able to actually see the countryside. Some people swear by the overnight trains... if it's the only option for some of the longer hauls, I guess that's fine. But if there's time, I'll take the day train.
So I found Cinque Terre. And I'm sitting on a stone bench, with the sea to my right, and my town, Manarola, to the left. This is a special place, no doubt, and a perfect way to get the exhaust of Rome out of my lungs.
Cinque Terre IS that collection of 5 mountain villages, with vineyards running between town and sea. The 10 minute train ride from La Spezia dropped me off at the first town, Riomaggiore, and I walked the seaside path to the 2nd town, Manarola. I took the hike with a couple American guys I had met on the train. Luckilly, I borrowed their guide book, to quickly get a good hotel idea and to learn that skipping the 1st town is the way to go.
I reached Manarola in no time, to find a little main street district, with coffee shops and restaurants. Found one of the recommended hotels and checked in. Dropped my bag, and continued on with the Americans, hoping to find the third town. Unfortunately, the main path was shut down due to landslides beyond Manarola, so I split up from the guys, who pressed on to locate the secondary trail, and I explored a small cemetary along the trail. My train ticket is still good all day, and a shuttle runs between all 5 towns. But right now, I sit on my perch, above the sea, enjoying a can of Italian beer.
Very light crowds here in Manarola, and most of the people I've encountered seem to be American. So it looks like this place is still a bit of a secret, or maybe because it's the down season. Down season or not, the weather is warm and beautiful, with a breeze coming in off the sea. Big clouds are moving this way, so if it rains, I'll be able to find shelter, somewhere close.
The rain was holding back, so I hopped the train at the station in my village, and rode it 5 minutes, 2 towns down, to Vernazza. Supposedly the wealthiest of the villages, it looks very similar to Manarola, only a bit larger. I walked down to the pier, to watch the sunset with some other tourists, and one local black cat (I've notice many stray cats out and about in Cinque Terre). On the way, I picked up some pesto bruscetta at the nearbye pizzeria. Cheap, and AMAZING. The area is known for its pesto and olive oil, and they ain't kidding.
It's times like these when I wished I smoked cigars. After returing to Manarola, I feasted on an incredible dinner at the tratorria down the hill from my hotel. Fresh octopus is another specialty, and I loaded up on it with a seafood salad, followed by excellent spaghetti and tomatoe sauce. Friendly service, and after an espresso, I walked the 50 yards to the sea. I'm sitting on a bench built into the overlook, listening to the waves hit, far below. The sleepy little town is starting to shut down for the night, as a fishing boat is heading out to sea. It's turned chilly, but not cold. This might be paradise... again.
Finished the night on the back patio of my 2nd floor hotel room, listening to Billie Holiday, and the sounds of lovers laughing in the alley below. A large hill towers above me, lined with trails amongst the vineyards, visible in the moonlight. I can smell wood smoke, and I see stars! Haven't seen stars in awhile.
No traffic. No sirens. Very few people. Can't believe I was buried in the chaos of Rome, just this morning. Seems like days ago.
Sunday. Leaving Cinque Terre. Leaving Italy.
Long night of uninterrupted sleep. Sunny morning, with clouds building out over the sea. Walked down to the pier for crepes and cappachino at one of the trattoria. Not much else open, but the food was good, and I've got the sea over my right shoulder. Moving on to town 5 of 5 today, where I'll spend my last night in Italy. France coming up next!
Whoops! Change of plans. I learned that the trains were going on strike tonight, throughout Italy, so I had to decide within about 30 seconds at the reservation booth what to do. The short-fused lady selling tickets was getting extremely annoyed with me, so I'm going to Nice today! It looks like rain in Cinque Terre anyway.
I really would have liked to stay an extra night (or 30), but that would have meant I wouldn't get to Paris till Wednesday evening, only giving me two full days there. So we'll see about Nice, where I'll spend 2 nights instead of 1. I've heard mixed opinions about the city... but it is on the sea, and a straight shot up to Paris.
So farewell, Italy...
More beautiful scenery on my train to Genova, where I'll connect to Nice. Hugging the coastline, passing through more of the quaint, mountain villages, similar in scope to Cinque Terre. Incredible bays... looks like more money, as the docked boats look more and more impressive. And now... I enter France.
Long train ride today... I found myself a bit impatient, but we finally rolled into Nice about 5 pm. Grabbed a map at the tourist info booth, and walked a few blocks towards the center of town. Settled for a decent looking hotel, and walked to the shoreline. Very close, maybe a 15 minute walk, and found a sushi place for dinner. Amazing meal. Best sushi by far since I got to Europe. Walked up and down the main drag after dinner... large pedestrain only outdoor mall, and many people out and about. Mostly restaurants and tourist traps, but all-in-all, Nice looks like a decent place to layover a couple days.
Went to bed early, falling asleep to French "Scooby-Doo". The Harlem Globetrotters episode. Professional women's handball is also on. Guess I'll just read...
Monday. Nice.
Today, is my, day, OFF. And Nice ain't half bad! It's very easy... 15 minute walk from train station to hotel, 5 minutes from my hotel to the beach, through plenty of restaurants and coffee shops. I found one of the latter, just out of the way, with the sea a few steps to my right. The weather here is perfect, and my legs still ache from all the hiking in Cinque Terre (and Rome, and Venice, and and and and). So it's nice to officially take a day off.
So what does one do on his day off in Europe? I read the paper, did some laundry, hung out on a park bench, watching the waves. Did the crossword puzzle. Read a book, out on my balcony (my 6th floor hotel room has a killer terrace). Watched some news. Mailed some postcards. And I did NOT get on a train.
Tuesday. Leaving Nice.
Early start this morning. I wanted a later train to Paris, but the 6:32 am departure was the only one left. That's a first; on this whole trip I have had no issue getting the trains I wanted. Oh well... gives me more time to get oriented in Paris. Sitting upstairs right now, on my train's 2nd deck... 6 hour ride ahead of me. The sun has yet to rise.
Paris! I think I just might dig this town. Very easy to navigate the Metro (subway), just so long as you've got a Metro Map. Hopped off my train at Station de Lyon, and two trams later I was a quick walk to my hostel, St. Christopher's.
Very nice, new building, with a slick bar downstairs called Belushi's (with over-priced beer). I checked in after using the free wi-fi, and met one of my roomies, a cool Irish woman named Tanya. Found out she's meeting her other friends, who are also our roomies, and heading to the MGMT concert in downtown Paris tomorrow night. She said come along... would love to go, if it's not sold-out. I missed those guys when they opened for Beck back in Phoenix.
Met a few cool folks from the states down in the hostel's internet cafe. Chatted for awhile, and then Kelsey, a girl from Arkansas, and I headed to the Latin Quarter. She wanted to hit up a particular restaurant, and I was happy to get outside. Great little place... I had a very decent tuna and anchovy salad, and we strolled down the banks of the Seine River, stopping outside the walls of Notre Dame Cathedral. Kelsey had to catch a night train, so I headed back home on a long subway ride.
Wednesday. Paris.
Between my roommate's snoring (the only other guy in the room), and an early morning jackhammer outside my window, I didn't get much sleep. Hopefully, I'll survive the walking tour that starts outside the hostel this morning. Hanging out in the cafe, sipping coffee, listening to reggae music over the hostel sound system. The breakfast... well let's just say it was free: cocoa crispies (?!) and bread. But the coffee is quite good.
It's funny... Tanya, my roommate from Dublin, made an intresting point last night. All the Americans traveling Europe, present company included, when asked the question "Where are you from?", answer multiple places. Example: "Well, I was born in Michigan, but I've been living in Arizona for the past 10 years". Answering "I'm from the States" isn't good enough.
Spent 3 hours today on a cool walking tour of Paris. The rain held back, but it was very cold. We kicked things off back in the Latin Quarter, and got some history on Notre Dame. It was the first building in the world to use flying buttresses, and is where Napoleon crowned himself emperor. We passed by the Police Headquarters, complete with World War II French Resistance bullet holes, when the Nazis occupied the city, and caught some glimpses of the Eiffel Tower. Plenty of cool Henry the 4th history followed us along our walk, and we paused in front of the "Obelisk", where the infamous French guillitene once stood. So many people were executed here, it's said, that horses wouldn't go near the area.
We capped off the tour with Napoleon's fountains, a walk down the infamous Avenue des Champs Elyssees, and the impressive Arc De Triomphe. I split up from the group with a few Americans, so we could check out the Arc close up. Underneathe was the Eternal Flame, which we learned about on the tour. The four of us headed back to the Latin Quarter, to check out the inside of Notre Dame, and so I could find a hotel for the next couple nights. From what I'd seen, touring Paris, the Latin Quarter seemed like the coolest spot to wrap up my trip. After checking out some amazing stained glass inside Notre Dame, we split up, and I found a good hotel in the center of the Quarter. Headed back to the hostel to clean up.
Back at Saint Christopher's, I met up with my Irish roommates, who were already partying, getting ready for the MGMT concert. Hung out in the room for a bit, and then moved the festivities upstairs, to merge with another Irish contingent. About a dozen of them, and super friendly, and I felt pretty cool being the token American in the group. They were convinced I could get into the sold out show, so I followed along as we hopped a few subways to the venue. I'll never forget those rides... the crew would sing at the top of its lungs, but only English songs so the frightened Parisian passengers wouldn't think they were Irish. I just smiled and watched the show.
Arrived at the venue, to find only one guy out front scalping one ticket. His starting price? About 150 bucks American. I laughed him off and started bidding farewell to my Irish friends. It would have been great to hang out with them some more, but I'm not that big of a MGMT fan, and I wanted to check out the Eiffel Tower up close, when it was all lit up. So back to the subway I go...
There's a guy playing french horn on the subway. An audience of maybe a dozen. It's hard enough to stand on the subway without holding onto some sort of hand rail, and this guy's carrying a decent tune. That's the guy I'll give some spare change to. But alas... he's out the door before I can donate. These subway performers move FAST.
I was blown away by the Eiffel Tower tonight. It's truly the way to see it: after dark, and all lit up in spectacular blue. At the top of the hour, it turns into a giant light show.... I believe to honor France's current status as head of the European Union. Very pretty...
I dig Paris. Really didn't think I would, but I do. The Metro system is very easy to nail down, so getting around is no sweat. And my favorite area so far is the Latin Quarter, where I'll be moving to tomorrow night. But that leaves tonight: my last night in a European hostel. The little quirks of sharing a room with strangers aside, the hostels have really served me well. Soooo cheap, and the best way to spend the first couple days in a new city while getting oriented. That's not to say finishing a city in a decent hotel isn't a pretty good thing as well.
Thursday. Paris.
Just had the nicest shower, in all of Europe. The shower head was tall enough, the pressure was great, and the stall was big enough to stretch out. That's a little piece of heaven. I'm so thankful to be done with the hostel, and very thankful that my new hotel in the Latin Quarter let me check in early, for the best shower in Europe.
St. Christopher's Hostel wasn't bad... I really liked my Irish roommates. But the snoring guy in the bunk below mine drove me to the edge. Last night was worse than the first. Not much sleep. But I lugged my gear on two subways, and arrived in the Latin Quarter. And here I am, enjoying post-shower bliss, watching the only English channel available.
Really digging the Latin Quarter. Cheap restaurants, used book stores, and great jazz clubs... all packed in together. The Seine and Notre Dame are a short walk away, as is the Louvre, which I'm attempting today. Picked up a delicious crepe from a stand near the hotel, watching the owner prepare it before my very eyes (which is the best way to go in Paris). Ate my lunch on the walk to the Louvre, under sunny skies.
Very modern entrance to the Louvre, through an underground shopping mall, and past an inverted, glass pyramid (straight out of "The DaVinci Code". There are other ways into the massive museum, but our tour guide yesterday recommended this way to beat the crowds. She was right: no lines, and within 5 minutes of entering, I stood in front of the "Mona Lisa".
And there she is, hovering on the huge wall, all on her own. I learned a little Mona history yesterday on the tour. I wasn't aware that DaVinci really didn't paint that much... basically painting was almost a hobby-on-the-side for him. I like hitting the Mona first, so I can wander around aimlessly for a few hours with no particular direction (you'd need months to cover the entire museum).
The Louvre didn't really do it for me. It's impressive, of course... it's the Louvre! And not a bad place to wander around, listening to the iPod. But something I've learned after hitting up the Chicago Art Institute back in August, is that I definitely prefer modern art. The religious paintings throughout the Lourvre lack that surrealism I crave... just give me something abstract instead of an elaborate recreation. It's just not my cup of tea. Give me London's Tate Modern museum any day.
I had more subway performers this morning. Guy got on at one of the stops with his 10 year old daughter. He starts shouting in French, looking agitated, but then hits the button on a hidden stereo, and the girl starts rapping! And she's good! He joins in for a couple verses, but it's her show. They perform like this for no more than 2 stops, and they disappear into the station crowds. Wild.
After checking out of the Louvre, I moved down the Seine a few blocks and stopped in a cafe for some coffee, and finished Hemingway's "The Sun Also Rises". Fitting spot, although I might have to buy another book to tide me over until I return to the States on Tuesday. All I have left is finishing "Omnivore's Dilema" (yawn).
Continued my Paris museum hopping, and stepped into Musee d'Orsay. It comes very highly recommended, even more so than the Louvre, and I could see why. Located in an old train station, the building itself is a work of art. Such a cool layout. Very open, and excellent pieces on display. Hung out for hours, as the sun went down.
Huge collection of Monets. Really like this kind of work... Renoir, too. Impressionism left its mark on me. What a cool museum. I walked slowly back to the Latin Quarter and wandered around for awhile. Grabbed a light dinner of cheese and wine, and browsed one of the many bookstores nearbye. Feels like a lot is happening on the streets of the Latin Quarter. My soul wants to play some more, but my aching legs are begging for mercy. I need a big pile of sleep tonight... so back to the hotel room I retire.
Friday. Paris.
Big pile of sleep = 10 hours. Wow, did I need that. Taking my time this morning... breakfast in the hotel. Strolled to an internet cafe a few doors down to upload some pictures, and stopped for lunch at an Irish pub. Great food and better service. Turned a bit gray outside, so I stuck around for awhile. Read the paper, and loaded up on a big bowl of Irish stew. Perfect choice for a cold dark day in Paris.
And ah, I saved the best for last... Paris' Musee National d'Art Moderne. The modern art museum, and definitely my cup of tea. Very cool building, surrounded by what looks like a giant habitrail. I spent much of the afternoon checking out just one of the galleries, and it really stirred up the creative juices. Loved the Dation Atlans and of course the Pollocks. There were also many works by Picasso, and while I'm not a huge fan, I loved his "Le Guitariste" from 1910 and "Buste de Femme" from 1909.
It's my last night in Paris. And I am ready to get home. A bit bored this evening... really would like to just stay in the hotel, but it's early. I finished my (good) book, and the only English channel on my hotel's TV is playing snooker. Snooker... this is a version of billiards, only more annoying. I strolled around the Latin Quarter, ate some bad sushi, and wished people spoke English.
It's been nice here in Paris. I loved the modern art museum today, and the people have generally been pretty cool. But I can say it: I'm ready to go home. I have 3 days back in London, and the United States will be mine again on Tuesday. I need a dose of familiarity.
Saturday. Leaving Paris.
My need to get home has hit me like a freight train in the last 24 hours. I'm just getting a bit impatient. Don't get me wrong... Paris is a great city... I'm just weary from the constant traveling... this routine of non-routine. It is time to get HOME.
Took the subway from my hotel to the Gare du Nord train station, passed customs, and boarded my EuroStar to London. A quick 3 hours, through the Chunnel, and I was back in the UK. Pretty amazing transportation they've got in Europe (where are the high speed Phoenix to Los Angeles trains???). After a ride in the Underground, I took the train back to West Dulwich, where this European adventure began, back on October 9th. Here it is November the 15th, and I walked back to the cozy house on Clive Road. So great to see Joe and Lowri and little Ella again...
"Been livin' out of this here suitcase for way too long. Man needs somethin' he can hold onto." - Ray LaMontagne
Tuesday. Leaving Europe.
I'm on my way home! The last day in Europe has been set in motion. The rain held back as I walked to the West Dulwich rail station, luggage in tow. Two transfers and a little over an hour later, and I stepped into Heathrow airport's Terminal 5. Checked my bags (glad to be rid of them), and grabbed one last London meal of fish n' chips. Just an hour or so, and my British Airways jet will be launching me back home to Arizona, USA.
Last couple days in cold grey London were real nice.... very relaxed.... which was right up my alley. Took the train over to Brixton yesterday and caught a double feature. It had been awhile since I'd gone to the movies. Hung out on Sunday night with Joe, playing guitars at an open mike jam the Mansion pub was holding down the block. Slept great in the house, in their cozy first floor lounge, complete with gas fireplace to keep me warm. And as if Lowri and Joe hadn't spoiled me enough, we had a few more amazing home-cooked meals to wrap up my trip.
And here I am... back home, in Arizona. I'm glad to be back amongst friends and family and familiar sights and sounds, but I definitely miss Europe. So many of the places I visited, I'd head back to in a heartbeat... Venice, Cinque Terre, and Prague stand out as my favorites, not to mention the amazing people in Germany. But it all was so fantastic, and I count myself truly blessed to have had such an incredible opportunity. An opportunity to step outside the box, get off the grid, and see a bit more of the world.
I hope to hear from you soon, and that 2009 will treat you right. Finally, I can't thank you all enough for following me along on these adventures. Cheers!!!
Europe Part 6 - Rome
Tuesday. Leaving Venice.
There's little chance I'll be able to top Venice. Such a dream-like city. I left the jazz club slowly last night, in no hurry to get back to the hotel. My head was on that swivel again, but instead of dodging traffic, I was taking in as many details as possible. Ahh Venice, I will miss you.
After checking out of the Hotel Flora this morning, I hopped on the waterbus one last time at San Marco, and relaxed for the 20 minute cruise along the Grande Canal. A very light drizzle was falling, and I watched the show that is, Venice. Everybody using a boat to do their job... delivering bottled water and crates of cigarettes. Fresh produce and the week's garbage. Back at the train station way too fast, and now I sit on my train to Rome, trying to enjoy my thimble of "black coffee". Time to get South again. A little over 4 hours, on this mean looking Eurostar train.
So it's election day in the States. I voted weeks ago in Arizona's early-voting system. You'd think I could get away from the news over here in Europe, but the US election has been ALL over Europe ever since I arrived. The English news channels at every hotel have talked about 3 things... Britain's F-1 race car champ, Britain's radio talk show scandal, and the American election. There aren't any English newspapers on this train... everything is in Italian. But dollars to donuts every one of those papers have Obama / McCain on the cover.
Stopped in Bologna for a few minutes, with the rain really coming down outside. It's supposed to be pretty damp in Rome all week. Hopefully I'll catch a bit of luck, as there are more than a few "must-see's" in Rome, and most of them are outside.
Wednesday. Rome.
The sun is shining! It was supposed to rain all week, but this morning, as I leave my hostel in search of a newspaper, the sun is shining. Maybe last night's huge, pouring thunderstorms got it out of the system. And this fine morning, the sun is shining.
Last night my train stopped at the Termini Station in Rome, where I hopped off and searched a bit for my hostel, Funny Palace. Silly name, but it was top-ranked on hostelworld.com, and they haven't steered me wrong yet. Just as I found the building, the skies opened up, with lightning and pouring rain. Very nice people at the hostel... free internet, laundry, even a bottle of wine as a welcome gift! I hung out with a girl from Austria, sharing a few glasses.
After an hour or two, I ventured out into the rain, in search of the Colosseum. Stopped for a quick slice of pizza, making quick friends with the owners after they thought my order was messed up. Handshakes all around, and I was back outside, eating pizza in the rain. At least it's warm.
After getting some directions from a kind local, I finally stumbled in view of the Colosseum. The rain pulled back, and even the moon popped out as I walked past the towering ruins. Attempted a few pictures in the dark, before heading back to the hostel, and bed.
Woke up early, to the bright beautiful day in Rome. I was meeting Danielle and Dave, the Aussies I met in Prague, down near the Colosseum. So I hoofed it the mile or so down. We hooked up at the beautiful Arco di Constantino, between the Colosseum and the Roman Forum. Really great to see my Australian friends again, and we signed up to tour the ruins at the Forum. We paid the extra 6 euro for audio guides, winding our way past the 2000 year old buildings. Beautiful setting, with manageable crowds. Surprised me, with how nice the weather was, that we didn't have to wait in line to get in. (It's best to start with the Forum and finish with the Colosseum).
Wandered around the impressively preserved grounds, checking out the Temple of Saturn, the Temple of Vesta, the Temple of Romulus (with it's original bronze door), and the massive Basilica of Maxentius. We learned about Caesar, Augustus, and Nero, before pausing for a rest beneath the Arch of Titus.
The 2nd part of the tour led us through the Farnese Gardens on Palatine Hill, with amazing views of Rome. After an hour in the Gardens, we were ready for lunch, so the 3 of us searched for an Irish Pub, near Mussolini's monstrosity, what many people today call the "Typewriter Building".
Stopped off at the Pub, for a decent chicken sandwich and apple pie. We caught a bus a few blocks, and visited the Pantheon. Amazing dome that still stands today... one of those places you walk inside, look up, and say whoa. Just incredible. There's just no way to capture the inside of this place on camera, so we walked around a bit, in a complete daze.
After the Pantheon, it was just a short walk to the Trevi Fountains. An absolute must-see... so much fun to walk around a regular street corner to find this. Just stunning.... the detail in the statues is unbelievable. Listening to the water, mixed with the crowd noise, under a perfect sky. So so nice.
We pressed on, and relaxed on the Spanish Steps, a popular meeting spot in front of the Spanish Embassy. Rested our weary legs, and caught a subway to the Vatican. Didn't have much time, but the place was so beautiful at night... especially St. Peter's Basilica. Saw the Pope's apartments, and were able to enter the giant church just before closing time.
And here, in St. Peter's, you take a deep breath. I'm not sure how any church could quite compare. This place is simply mind blowing. Stared at the ceiling, paused in front of Michelangelo's statue, and wandered past the high altar, with the dome towering above. Stayed as long as we could, and walked out, almost speechless.
Long day of sight seeing behind us, we met up with one of Dave's Italian cousins and his girlfriend, and he drove us through the insane traffic of Rome, to an outdoor bar, high up in the hills, with great night views of the city. Hung out for a bit, before he had to leave (Dave's cousin plays water polo), but he recommended a good pizzeria nearby for the rest of us. There, Dave, Danielle, and I hung out for hours, enjoying the fantastic pizza and excellent service. The best dish by far was the ham and tomato pizza, complete with a garnish of fried egg. YUM.
Instead of trying to figure out the buses back to my hostel, I opted for the 20 euro cab ride, said farewell to my Australian friends, and turned in for the night.
Thursday. Rome.
A bit burned out this morning. I might need just a relaxed day. I moved into a different room at the hostel and dropped off some laundry before getting the typical Italian breakfast of nothing and nothing (Pastry and Cappachino). The traditional meals over in Europe seem to lacking when it comes to fruits, vegetables, and WATER). Sunny day again outside, and I wandered over to the train station to reserve my seat on Saturday's ride to La Spezia.
After thinking I'd just relax, I instead took the subway to the Colosseum to take the guided tour we missed the day before. There, I met a cool American girl named Ariana, and bumped into Danielle and Dave again. We all were signed up for the audio tour, so we joined forces and entered the massive arena. We followed the halls, listening to the history of the Colosseum. They've recently constructed a replica of the floor, which covered a portion of the basement, that maze of corridors which contained the gladiators, animals, and the complex system of machinery that controlled effects up on the stadium's floor. These effects were pretty amazing... for instance: a beached whale would appear and open its mouth, releasing dozens of live bears. Totally shocking to the 10's of thousands in attendance.
The people who'd visit the Colosseum in Roman times got in for free, and represented all classes. However, woman and some of the poorer people were placed high above, in the worst seats. All in all, it would have been quite the show, back in the day.
After a couple hours of roaming, the four of us left the Colosseum and walked to nearby Campo di Fiore, for a couple sandwiches that Danielle highly recommended. Great little place, although the bologna on display out front was a bit frightening to some, and impressive to others.
We found a spot by a statue in the plaza, enjoying our food and bottles of Pironi. (Drinking beer outside is allowed in Rome... actually in much of Europe). A light rain began to fall as we finished eating, so we retreated to the cover of an outdoor cafe, closed for business. Great time with some great people. Chatted about the States, Australia, and where each of us had been and where we planned to go next. As the rain stopped, we moved to a nearby cafe to have some vino, and listened to the street musicians entertaining the Campo di Fiore crowds.
Alas, Dave and Danielle had to get moving, so we said our goodbyes, and Ariana and I decided on cappachino's and a bit more food. We found the grub at a nearby pizzeria called Baffetto's, which came highly recommended. Such a good time, enjoying some incredible bruscetta and splitting a small pizza.
A day that began with so much road weariness, turned out to be quite nice.
Friday. Rome.
Great night's sleep. Checked out of the hostel, and was surprised with a free breakfast waiting for me in the lobby. I caught the 64 bus from the Termini Station, and luckily grabbed a seat. Supposedly, the 64 is notorious for pick pockets, and I can see why. People were packed in like sardines, wall to wall, and you'd have a hard time noticing a stray hand lifting an unprotected wallet. So... protect your wallet! I've always kept my passport, train tickets, and a credit card in a money belt I wear around my neck. I keep the day's spending cash and my other credit card in my jeans front pocket. And my small backpack that I wear.... eh. If that's stolen it's more of a nuisance than a travesty. Nothing in there but some books, an umbrella, and a hat.
So even with the potential "dangers" on board the 64, it is, along with the 40 bus, the easiest way to get to the major sights in Rome. And today, my destination: back to the Vatican, and Saint Peter's Basilica, and finally the Sistine Chapel in the Vatican Museum.
I lined up in the enormous quite, waiting to get inside the Basilica. Long line, but it moved quickly past the Pope's apartments, and I was inside the giant church within a half hour. Today, I took a right before the main entrance, and took the mini pilgrimage to the top of the dome, followed by the cupola. 320 steps, and not for the faint of heart. You pause a quarter of the way up, where crowds circle the platform on the inside of the huge dome. A large drop down to the floor below, and the ant-sized visitors. Very cool view.
Back in the narrow passageway, I climbed the remaining stairs and walked outside, to a large terrace. Stood for awhile in the warm breeze, looking out over St. Peter's, and the city of Rome. Another beautiful day. I sooo lucked out, since the forecast for the week in Rome looked really bad.
I stopped for lunch at a "Snack Bar" between St. Peter's and the Vatican Museum, where I was unmercifully ripped off. 2 small panini (sandwiches), a bottle of water, and a cup of cappachino set me back 32 euro (about 40 bucks American). They better hope His Holiness wasn't watching, just a few blocks down the street.
Moved on to the Vatican Museum, in search of the Sistine Chapel, and my last sight seeing stop in Rome. I took the advice of one of the hostel workers, who recommended seeing the Museum between 1 and 2 pm. Worked out great... NO lines, and a manageable crowd. I rented one of the audio guides and jumped in.
Wow... so much to see (which is why the audio guides are so great... they can turn 2 or 3 hours in these colossal spaces into a fascinating history lesson, and keep you from getting lost). Started in a courtyard, with beautiful views of St. Peter's next door. Wandered through Egyptian exhibits, but I really loved the huge display of Roman sculptures, especially since we learned about so many of these people during our tour of the Forum. Very well-preserved statues... to name a few, of Tiberius, Augustus, Titus, and Claudius. And I really dug the intricate detail of "The Nile".
And then, on the way to the Sistine Chapel, I passed through the "Map Room". Double WOW. The ceiling stole the show. And finally, we were ushered into the chapel itself, where I grabbed a seat in the middle to look up. So beautiful (but no picture taking allowed --- sorry!). I always thought of Michelangelo's ceiling as primarily the hand of God touching Adam... but the entire room is a work of art. The audio guide was my teacher.. offering tidbits of info like how Michelangelo was reluctant, back in the 1500's, to continue painting. He thought his sculptures were more his cup of tea. The audio guide finished, and I took a few more long stares before finally leaving.
Hopped the subway back to my hotel, and relaxed for the rest of the day. Had a solid traditional Italian dinner down the block. Traditional Italian means 4 courses... my choices today were: 1. Pasta 2. Salad 3. Eggs and Tomatoes 4. Fruit. Not the exact order we'd be used to in the States, but everything was quite good. Back at the hotel, I updated the blog, and turned in early. Early train North was waiting for me tomorrow.
Well that's it for part 6.... the final update, part 7, will include Cinque Terre (another Italian paradise), a couple days off in Nice, and 4 nights not quite tango-ing in Paris. And the big news, is I'll be finishing this blog at HOME!!!! I'm back in the good ole' USofA on Tuesday! CHEERS!!!!!!!
There's little chance I'll be able to top Venice. Such a dream-like city. I left the jazz club slowly last night, in no hurry to get back to the hotel. My head was on that swivel again, but instead of dodging traffic, I was taking in as many details as possible. Ahh Venice, I will miss you.
After checking out of the Hotel Flora this morning, I hopped on the waterbus one last time at San Marco, and relaxed for the 20 minute cruise along the Grande Canal. A very light drizzle was falling, and I watched the show that is, Venice. Everybody using a boat to do their job... delivering bottled water and crates of cigarettes. Fresh produce and the week's garbage. Back at the train station way too fast, and now I sit on my train to Rome, trying to enjoy my thimble of "black coffee". Time to get South again. A little over 4 hours, on this mean looking Eurostar train.
So it's election day in the States. I voted weeks ago in Arizona's early-voting system. You'd think I could get away from the news over here in Europe, but the US election has been ALL over Europe ever since I arrived. The English news channels at every hotel have talked about 3 things... Britain's F-1 race car champ, Britain's radio talk show scandal, and the American election. There aren't any English newspapers on this train... everything is in Italian. But dollars to donuts every one of those papers have Obama / McCain on the cover.
Stopped in Bologna for a few minutes, with the rain really coming down outside. It's supposed to be pretty damp in Rome all week. Hopefully I'll catch a bit of luck, as there are more than a few "must-see's" in Rome, and most of them are outside.
Wednesday. Rome.
The sun is shining! It was supposed to rain all week, but this morning, as I leave my hostel in search of a newspaper, the sun is shining. Maybe last night's huge, pouring thunderstorms got it out of the system. And this fine morning, the sun is shining.
Last night my train stopped at the Termini Station in Rome, where I hopped off and searched a bit for my hostel, Funny Palace. Silly name, but it was top-ranked on hostelworld.com, and they haven't steered me wrong yet. Just as I found the building, the skies opened up, with lightning and pouring rain. Very nice people at the hostel... free internet, laundry, even a bottle of wine as a welcome gift! I hung out with a girl from Austria, sharing a few glasses.
After an hour or two, I ventured out into the rain, in search of the Colosseum. Stopped for a quick slice of pizza, making quick friends with the owners after they thought my order was messed up. Handshakes all around, and I was back outside, eating pizza in the rain. At least it's warm.
After getting some directions from a kind local, I finally stumbled in view of the Colosseum. The rain pulled back, and even the moon popped out as I walked past the towering ruins. Attempted a few pictures in the dark, before heading back to the hostel, and bed.
Woke up early, to the bright beautiful day in Rome. I was meeting Danielle and Dave, the Aussies I met in Prague, down near the Colosseum. So I hoofed it the mile or so down. We hooked up at the beautiful Arco di Constantino, between the Colosseum and the Roman Forum. Really great to see my Australian friends again, and we signed up to tour the ruins at the Forum. We paid the extra 6 euro for audio guides, winding our way past the 2000 year old buildings. Beautiful setting, with manageable crowds. Surprised me, with how nice the weather was, that we didn't have to wait in line to get in. (It's best to start with the Forum and finish with the Colosseum).
Wandered around the impressively preserved grounds, checking out the Temple of Saturn, the Temple of Vesta, the Temple of Romulus (with it's original bronze door), and the massive Basilica of Maxentius. We learned about Caesar, Augustus, and Nero, before pausing for a rest beneath the Arch of Titus.
The 2nd part of the tour led us through the Farnese Gardens on Palatine Hill, with amazing views of Rome. After an hour in the Gardens, we were ready for lunch, so the 3 of us searched for an Irish Pub, near Mussolini's monstrosity, what many people today call the "Typewriter Building".
Stopped off at the Pub, for a decent chicken sandwich and apple pie. We caught a bus a few blocks, and visited the Pantheon. Amazing dome that still stands today... one of those places you walk inside, look up, and say whoa. Just incredible. There's just no way to capture the inside of this place on camera, so we walked around a bit, in a complete daze.
After the Pantheon, it was just a short walk to the Trevi Fountains. An absolute must-see... so much fun to walk around a regular street corner to find this. Just stunning.... the detail in the statues is unbelievable. Listening to the water, mixed with the crowd noise, under a perfect sky. So so nice.
We pressed on, and relaxed on the Spanish Steps, a popular meeting spot in front of the Spanish Embassy. Rested our weary legs, and caught a subway to the Vatican. Didn't have much time, but the place was so beautiful at night... especially St. Peter's Basilica. Saw the Pope's apartments, and were able to enter the giant church just before closing time.
And here, in St. Peter's, you take a deep breath. I'm not sure how any church could quite compare. This place is simply mind blowing. Stared at the ceiling, paused in front of Michelangelo's statue, and wandered past the high altar, with the dome towering above. Stayed as long as we could, and walked out, almost speechless.
Long day of sight seeing behind us, we met up with one of Dave's Italian cousins and his girlfriend, and he drove us through the insane traffic of Rome, to an outdoor bar, high up in the hills, with great night views of the city. Hung out for a bit, before he had to leave (Dave's cousin plays water polo), but he recommended a good pizzeria nearby for the rest of us. There, Dave, Danielle, and I hung out for hours, enjoying the fantastic pizza and excellent service. The best dish by far was the ham and tomato pizza, complete with a garnish of fried egg. YUM.
Instead of trying to figure out the buses back to my hostel, I opted for the 20 euro cab ride, said farewell to my Australian friends, and turned in for the night.
Thursday. Rome.
A bit burned out this morning. I might need just a relaxed day. I moved into a different room at the hostel and dropped off some laundry before getting the typical Italian breakfast of nothing and nothing (Pastry and Cappachino). The traditional meals over in Europe seem to lacking when it comes to fruits, vegetables, and WATER). Sunny day again outside, and I wandered over to the train station to reserve my seat on Saturday's ride to La Spezia.
After thinking I'd just relax, I instead took the subway to the Colosseum to take the guided tour we missed the day before. There, I met a cool American girl named Ariana, and bumped into Danielle and Dave again. We all were signed up for the audio tour, so we joined forces and entered the massive arena. We followed the halls, listening to the history of the Colosseum. They've recently constructed a replica of the floor, which covered a portion of the basement, that maze of corridors which contained the gladiators, animals, and the complex system of machinery that controlled effects up on the stadium's floor. These effects were pretty amazing... for instance: a beached whale would appear and open its mouth, releasing dozens of live bears. Totally shocking to the 10's of thousands in attendance.
The people who'd visit the Colosseum in Roman times got in for free, and represented all classes. However, woman and some of the poorer people were placed high above, in the worst seats. All in all, it would have been quite the show, back in the day.
After a couple hours of roaming, the four of us left the Colosseum and walked to nearby Campo di Fiore, for a couple sandwiches that Danielle highly recommended. Great little place, although the bologna on display out front was a bit frightening to some, and impressive to others.
We found a spot by a statue in the plaza, enjoying our food and bottles of Pironi. (Drinking beer outside is allowed in Rome... actually in much of Europe). A light rain began to fall as we finished eating, so we retreated to the cover of an outdoor cafe, closed for business. Great time with some great people. Chatted about the States, Australia, and where each of us had been and where we planned to go next. As the rain stopped, we moved to a nearby cafe to have some vino, and listened to the street musicians entertaining the Campo di Fiore crowds.
Alas, Dave and Danielle had to get moving, so we said our goodbyes, and Ariana and I decided on cappachino's and a bit more food. We found the grub at a nearby pizzeria called Baffetto's, which came highly recommended. Such a good time, enjoying some incredible bruscetta and splitting a small pizza.
A day that began with so much road weariness, turned out to be quite nice.
Friday. Rome.
Great night's sleep. Checked out of the hostel, and was surprised with a free breakfast waiting for me in the lobby. I caught the 64 bus from the Termini Station, and luckily grabbed a seat. Supposedly, the 64 is notorious for pick pockets, and I can see why. People were packed in like sardines, wall to wall, and you'd have a hard time noticing a stray hand lifting an unprotected wallet. So... protect your wallet! I've always kept my passport, train tickets, and a credit card in a money belt I wear around my neck. I keep the day's spending cash and my other credit card in my jeans front pocket. And my small backpack that I wear.... eh. If that's stolen it's more of a nuisance than a travesty. Nothing in there but some books, an umbrella, and a hat.
So even with the potential "dangers" on board the 64, it is, along with the 40 bus, the easiest way to get to the major sights in Rome. And today, my destination: back to the Vatican, and Saint Peter's Basilica, and finally the Sistine Chapel in the Vatican Museum.
I lined up in the enormous quite, waiting to get inside the Basilica. Long line, but it moved quickly past the Pope's apartments, and I was inside the giant church within a half hour. Today, I took a right before the main entrance, and took the mini pilgrimage to the top of the dome, followed by the cupola. 320 steps, and not for the faint of heart. You pause a quarter of the way up, where crowds circle the platform on the inside of the huge dome. A large drop down to the floor below, and the ant-sized visitors. Very cool view.
Back in the narrow passageway, I climbed the remaining stairs and walked outside, to a large terrace. Stood for awhile in the warm breeze, looking out over St. Peter's, and the city of Rome. Another beautiful day. I sooo lucked out, since the forecast for the week in Rome looked really bad.
I stopped for lunch at a "Snack Bar" between St. Peter's and the Vatican Museum, where I was unmercifully ripped off. 2 small panini (sandwiches), a bottle of water, and a cup of cappachino set me back 32 euro (about 40 bucks American). They better hope His Holiness wasn't watching, just a few blocks down the street.
Moved on to the Vatican Museum, in search of the Sistine Chapel, and my last sight seeing stop in Rome. I took the advice of one of the hostel workers, who recommended seeing the Museum between 1 and 2 pm. Worked out great... NO lines, and a manageable crowd. I rented one of the audio guides and jumped in.
Wow... so much to see (which is why the audio guides are so great... they can turn 2 or 3 hours in these colossal spaces into a fascinating history lesson, and keep you from getting lost). Started in a courtyard, with beautiful views of St. Peter's next door. Wandered through Egyptian exhibits, but I really loved the huge display of Roman sculptures, especially since we learned about so many of these people during our tour of the Forum. Very well-preserved statues... to name a few, of Tiberius, Augustus, Titus, and Claudius. And I really dug the intricate detail of "The Nile".
And then, on the way to the Sistine Chapel, I passed through the "Map Room". Double WOW. The ceiling stole the show. And finally, we were ushered into the chapel itself, where I grabbed a seat in the middle to look up. So beautiful (but no picture taking allowed --- sorry!). I always thought of Michelangelo's ceiling as primarily the hand of God touching Adam... but the entire room is a work of art. The audio guide was my teacher.. offering tidbits of info like how Michelangelo was reluctant, back in the 1500's, to continue painting. He thought his sculptures were more his cup of tea. The audio guide finished, and I took a few more long stares before finally leaving.
Hopped the subway back to my hotel, and relaxed for the rest of the day. Had a solid traditional Italian dinner down the block. Traditional Italian means 4 courses... my choices today were: 1. Pasta 2. Salad 3. Eggs and Tomatoes 4. Fruit. Not the exact order we'd be used to in the States, but everything was quite good. Back at the hotel, I updated the blog, and turned in early. Early train North was waiting for me tomorrow.
Well that's it for part 6.... the final update, part 7, will include Cinque Terre (another Italian paradise), a couple days off in Nice, and 4 nights not quite tango-ing in Paris. And the big news, is I'll be finishing this blog at HOME!!!! I'm back in the good ole' USofA on Tuesday! CHEERS!!!!!!!
Europe Part 5 - Venice
Sunday. Leaving Vienna.
Woke up at 4 this morning. It didn't hurt as much as I had feared, and I actually pulled off some decent sleep, my last night in Austria. I'm headed to Italy, with a couple nights in Venice before I conquer Rome. Originally planned on skipping Venice, but Kai and Missy, my gracious Vienna hosts, convinced me that it was well worth it.
I had a brief scare on the way to the train station. Kai had given me great directions... bus to Hutteldorf train station, U-Bahn to Karsplatz Station, and finally the D-Tram to Sudbahnhof, where I'd catch my train to Venice. Pretty simple. But I wasn't counting on the bus driver at the start, asking me where I was going, and telling me he had a BETTER way. Here we go!
He was quite outspoken, from Serbia, and kept talking about bombs and concerts from years past. Since I was the only one on the bus, I was a captive audience, and assumed my plans to Italy had just drastically changed. But it all worked out fine. I'm not sure I really saved any time, but I made it to my final station with 20 minutes to spare.
Taking international trains in Europe is very easy... you don't need to be there 2 hours early like you do when flying. No security checks, all luggage is carry-on, and nobody is checking a passport. You just walk right onto your train, and show your ticket once it starts moving. And here I am, about ready to pass through the Alps on my 7 hour ride to Venice. It's a bit foggy outside, but my coach is half full, the seats are very comfortable, and my iPod is humming. Life is good.
The sun is out... we've risen above the mist. Oh my. It's like I'm riding through a scene from the "Sound of Music". Beautiful mountains rolling by, as we cruise up and over the Austrian Alps. Took a walk up the train to the dining car to enjoy some breakfast with the view. These Austrian hilltowns are just unreal. Snow-capped peaks, livestock wandering on huge green pastures, rivers and streams and mountain lakes, and the sleepy villages, with the occassional chimney blowing smoke. Huge lake to my left, dotted with cottages. I could be in Montatna, if it weren't for the random signs in German. This is between Klagenfurt and Villach, about half hour away from the Italian border.
This definitely is the most picturesque train ride yet. Crossed into Italy, and the mountains are larger than life... just outside my window. Following a wide, rushing river, near Udine, about an hour and 1/2 outside Venice. And then as I dropped down, everything turned California outside! Palm trees... vineyards. And it looks warm... (whatever warm looks like).
"Best friend you'll have is a railroad track..." --- Tom Waits.
Ah Venice. My train stopped at the Mestre Station, where I walked across the street to Hotel Bologna, a Best Western affiliate that Kai and Missy recommended. Very nice room (even with a bidet!). I literally put my bag down, walked back to the station, and took the 10 minute train to the heart of Venice. And there's the water... big and inviting, almost tropical.
A glass of red, surrounded by Venice, on a corner along one of the main alleys, in Campo S. Sofia. The Italian language sounds soooo fantastic. So musical. I've been wandering the past hour, snapping way too many pictures of way too many amazing canals. I need to put the camera away and just breathe. I could get used to this. The skies are overcast, but the air is warm. Almost don't even need the jacket. Reminds me (again) of Southern California, and the marine layer that settles over the beach towns.
Ahh Venice. Ahh McDonald's? I was just thinking that I might actually not see a Mickey D's here, and then not a minute later, there it is. And it's packed. In Venice. I give up... they are EVERYWHERE. I'll let you know when I see the Starbucks.
Got lost as the sun went down. Wandered through the Cannaregio District, before spending most of my time in the San Marco. Kai and Missy said the Piazza at San Marco was a must see, so I made that my "cheese" at the end of the maze. And when I finally stumbled into the plaza, from one of many narrow alleys, I was astonished. Piazza San Marco is HUGE... just incredible that a space so vast lies at the end of so many skinny passageways. I floated... checking out the tower, watching the people and catching a few tunes from one of the bands set up at an outdoor cafe. Found my way back towards the train station, basically following a trail of beautiful churches.
Ahhh Venice. Ahh it's nice to sit down after losing myself for a few hours, along the canals and back alleys. I'm having a veggie pizza in this narrow little cafe, an alley off an alley, and I LOVE hearing the Italian. The beautiful young barmaid, the old regular who stopped in for chips (and I think to flirth with the young barmaid). Can't help but smile. Solid pizza, too. And I think I found a slick little hotel for tomorrow night, in the heart of Venice.
I'm in Italy. No confusing it for Germany, that's for sure. I did that too often in Austria. And I love the vibe in this little pizzeria. The owner just stopped the music to turn up the volume on the F-1 auto race playing on his tv. Ahh Venice. Ahhhh Italy.
It turned foggy along the Grande Canal as I walked back to the train station. It was only about 8 pm, but after waking up so early that morning, my legs were about finished. 10 minutes back to Mestre Station, a few steps across the street, and I was in my bed at the Hotel Bologna.
Monday. Venice.
Had an amazing sleep in my sci-fi hotel room. Headed downstairs for a solid free breakfast, checked out, and took the train back to Venice's core, where I'd reserved a room at the Hotel Flora, near Piazza San Marco. Instead of walking it, this morning I dished out 16 euro for the 24 hour Vaporetto (water bus) card. A bit confisuing on which was the best boat to take to San Marco, but I chose wisely, and sped towards the hotel. Since there are no cars in Venice, and water taxis are astronomically expenisive, this is the best way to travel aside from walking.
Got off at Accademia, a stop along the Grande Canal before crowded San Marco, and walked to my hotel, tucked down a narrow alley off the main drag. Cool little room, but the highlight is the garden behind the hotel, where I now sit, enjoying a cappachino. Hotel Flora... fantastic location in the heart of Venice. A comfortable room, decent price... seems way too good to be true.
Wandered the streets and alleys around my hotel. I've got the Bvlgari shop next door just in case I want to buy some jewelry or watches or groceries. Branched out to a couple districts I'd yet to visit, San Polo and Santa Croce. Listening to the iPod... the sun's trying to poke through the clouds, and the temp is perfect. Resting on a bench in Campos Giacomo Da L'Orio.
After a few hours checking out the sights, walking the boardwalk near San Marco, and stopping for a lunch of delicious mini-sandwiches, I rested back at the hotel. Ahh, Venice. Ahhh Italian TV... dubbed MacGuyver and George Clooney shilling for Nespresso. This place, Venice, is going to seem like a dream after I've left. I love it when I have to stop, think, and remind myself just what country I'm in today.
Ahh Venice. Ahh Venice Jazz Club! I just walked into a quartet that's featuring the works of jazz pianist Bill Evans. This was a gamble tonight... I found the place on an earlier walk... down a back alley off one of the canals. Tiny place, expensive to get in, with the proverbial "Jazz" sign out front. But man did that gamble pay off. The band sounds super-tight, now covering a version of "Alice in Wonderland". This is a perfect way to cap my two nights in Venice. Venice, the dream.
Woke up at 4 this morning. It didn't hurt as much as I had feared, and I actually pulled off some decent sleep, my last night in Austria. I'm headed to Italy, with a couple nights in Venice before I conquer Rome. Originally planned on skipping Venice, but Kai and Missy, my gracious Vienna hosts, convinced me that it was well worth it.
I had a brief scare on the way to the train station. Kai had given me great directions... bus to Hutteldorf train station, U-Bahn to Karsplatz Station, and finally the D-Tram to Sudbahnhof, where I'd catch my train to Venice. Pretty simple. But I wasn't counting on the bus driver at the start, asking me where I was going, and telling me he had a BETTER way. Here we go!
He was quite outspoken, from Serbia, and kept talking about bombs and concerts from years past. Since I was the only one on the bus, I was a captive audience, and assumed my plans to Italy had just drastically changed. But it all worked out fine. I'm not sure I really saved any time, but I made it to my final station with 20 minutes to spare.
Taking international trains in Europe is very easy... you don't need to be there 2 hours early like you do when flying. No security checks, all luggage is carry-on, and nobody is checking a passport. You just walk right onto your train, and show your ticket once it starts moving. And here I am, about ready to pass through the Alps on my 7 hour ride to Venice. It's a bit foggy outside, but my coach is half full, the seats are very comfortable, and my iPod is humming. Life is good.
The sun is out... we've risen above the mist. Oh my. It's like I'm riding through a scene from the "Sound of Music". Beautiful mountains rolling by, as we cruise up and over the Austrian Alps. Took a walk up the train to the dining car to enjoy some breakfast with the view. These Austrian hilltowns are just unreal. Snow-capped peaks, livestock wandering on huge green pastures, rivers and streams and mountain lakes, and the sleepy villages, with the occassional chimney blowing smoke. Huge lake to my left, dotted with cottages. I could be in Montatna, if it weren't for the random signs in German. This is between Klagenfurt and Villach, about half hour away from the Italian border.
This definitely is the most picturesque train ride yet. Crossed into Italy, and the mountains are larger than life... just outside my window. Following a wide, rushing river, near Udine, about an hour and 1/2 outside Venice. And then as I dropped down, everything turned California outside! Palm trees... vineyards. And it looks warm... (whatever warm looks like).
"Best friend you'll have is a railroad track..." --- Tom Waits.
Ah Venice. My train stopped at the Mestre Station, where I walked across the street to Hotel Bologna, a Best Western affiliate that Kai and Missy recommended. Very nice room (even with a bidet!). I literally put my bag down, walked back to the station, and took the 10 minute train to the heart of Venice. And there's the water... big and inviting, almost tropical.
A glass of red, surrounded by Venice, on a corner along one of the main alleys, in Campo S. Sofia. The Italian language sounds soooo fantastic. So musical. I've been wandering the past hour, snapping way too many pictures of way too many amazing canals. I need to put the camera away and just breathe. I could get used to this. The skies are overcast, but the air is warm. Almost don't even need the jacket. Reminds me (again) of Southern California, and the marine layer that settles over the beach towns.
Ahh Venice. Ahh McDonald's? I was just thinking that I might actually not see a Mickey D's here, and then not a minute later, there it is. And it's packed. In Venice. I give up... they are EVERYWHERE. I'll let you know when I see the Starbucks.
Got lost as the sun went down. Wandered through the Cannaregio District, before spending most of my time in the San Marco. Kai and Missy said the Piazza at San Marco was a must see, so I made that my "cheese" at the end of the maze. And when I finally stumbled into the plaza, from one of many narrow alleys, I was astonished. Piazza San Marco is HUGE... just incredible that a space so vast lies at the end of so many skinny passageways. I floated... checking out the tower, watching the people and catching a few tunes from one of the bands set up at an outdoor cafe. Found my way back towards the train station, basically following a trail of beautiful churches.
Ahhh Venice. Ahh it's nice to sit down after losing myself for a few hours, along the canals and back alleys. I'm having a veggie pizza in this narrow little cafe, an alley off an alley, and I LOVE hearing the Italian. The beautiful young barmaid, the old regular who stopped in for chips (and I think to flirth with the young barmaid). Can't help but smile. Solid pizza, too. And I think I found a slick little hotel for tomorrow night, in the heart of Venice.
I'm in Italy. No confusing it for Germany, that's for sure. I did that too often in Austria. And I love the vibe in this little pizzeria. The owner just stopped the music to turn up the volume on the F-1 auto race playing on his tv. Ahh Venice. Ahhhh Italy.
It turned foggy along the Grande Canal as I walked back to the train station. It was only about 8 pm, but after waking up so early that morning, my legs were about finished. 10 minutes back to Mestre Station, a few steps across the street, and I was in my bed at the Hotel Bologna.
Monday. Venice.
Had an amazing sleep in my sci-fi hotel room. Headed downstairs for a solid free breakfast, checked out, and took the train back to Venice's core, where I'd reserved a room at the Hotel Flora, near Piazza San Marco. Instead of walking it, this morning I dished out 16 euro for the 24 hour Vaporetto (water bus) card. A bit confisuing on which was the best boat to take to San Marco, but I chose wisely, and sped towards the hotel. Since there are no cars in Venice, and water taxis are astronomically expenisive, this is the best way to travel aside from walking.
Got off at Accademia, a stop along the Grande Canal before crowded San Marco, and walked to my hotel, tucked down a narrow alley off the main drag. Cool little room, but the highlight is the garden behind the hotel, where I now sit, enjoying a cappachino. Hotel Flora... fantastic location in the heart of Venice. A comfortable room, decent price... seems way too good to be true.
Wandered the streets and alleys around my hotel. I've got the Bvlgari shop next door just in case I want to buy some jewelry or watches or groceries. Branched out to a couple districts I'd yet to visit, San Polo and Santa Croce. Listening to the iPod... the sun's trying to poke through the clouds, and the temp is perfect. Resting on a bench in Campos Giacomo Da L'Orio.
After a few hours checking out the sights, walking the boardwalk near San Marco, and stopping for a lunch of delicious mini-sandwiches, I rested back at the hotel. Ahh, Venice. Ahhh Italian TV... dubbed MacGuyver and George Clooney shilling for Nespresso. This place, Venice, is going to seem like a dream after I've left. I love it when I have to stop, think, and remind myself just what country I'm in today.
Ahh Venice. Ahh Venice Jazz Club! I just walked into a quartet that's featuring the works of jazz pianist Bill Evans. This was a gamble tonight... I found the place on an earlier walk... down a back alley off one of the canals. Tiny place, expensive to get in, with the proverbial "Jazz" sign out front. But man did that gamble pay off. The band sounds super-tight, now covering a version of "Alice in Wonderland". This is a perfect way to cap my two nights in Venice. Venice, the dream.
Europe Part 4 - Prague, Vienna
Sunday, October 26. Leaving Munich
Munich's been good to me, but it's time to roll on. Packed up my gear, and grabbed the free breakfast at our beautiful dining room downstairs, in the Hotel Am Markt. I'd seriously recommend this hotel... the rooms are little but comfortable, and the location cannot be beat, in the heart of old town Munich. I talked with an older German fellow over breakfast, who was heading to the States next week. Really with I had more time to chat, as he was very friendly, and had grown up in late 1930's Munich, just when things started to get crazy. But my train was calling, and I took the long walk through an eerily empty Marianplatz, and now I wait at the Hauptbanhof for Prague.
Ah, Munich. So welcoming... very easy to get around. Aside from our day trip to Dachau, I only used one subway, to the English Garden (which really isn't a bad walk as well). I'll try to remember the little things... roasted almonds while listening to choirs and string quartets in front of the Glockenspiel... the supercool Australian girl Kat, and how she'd switch to an American, valley girl accent "Do you guys, know where I can get, some water?" (u had to be there)... and how all the Aussies I met knew word for word the theme song to the old "Gummy Bears" cartoon.
Foggy outside... an hour into my 6 hour train ride to Prague. Stopping right now in Neufahrn. Comfortable train... I have my own cabin... but there's no food. Glad I have some beef jerky and a cliff bar on this straight shot to Prague. I am curious about the 3 men walking up and down the hall, dressed in green, with pistols. I'll hide behind my passport. Stopped at the border, at Firth I Wald, about to enter the Czech Republic.
And here I am in a new country! The fog has burned off and the sun is shining...forrest terrain outside my window, and much rockier than I've see so far. Stopped in Plzen, an hour or so outside Prague, in a depressing little train station. A guy opens the door to my cabin, sits down, and starts speaking Czech. I apologize, and he switches to English to tell me his sad story and ask for money. A bit unsettling, but I said sorry, can't help (I still only have euros, anyway --- have yet to convert to the Czech Koruna, or Crown), and just like that he left. I saw him outside as our train left, I guess waiting for the next.
Showed up in Prague as the sun was setting, got a bit turned around at the train station, and finally found the right tram to my hostel, Sir Toby's. Amazing place... but a bit outside the center of town. Great people here, not only offering a free map, but disecting it for me, showing me where the best spots were, and how to best get around. I hit up a traditional Czech restaurant down the street they recommended, for some incredible grilled duck, dumplings, and red cabbage. All washed down with some fantastic Pilsner Urquell.
Monday. Prague
Great night of sleep at Sir Toby's. I've got very cool roommates, an older couple from Australia, and we got to know each other at the hostel's bar, located in it's gothic cellar. Very cozy space, although after my feast of duck and dumplings, I could only knock down a cup of tea at the bar. The rooms are spacious, and we've only got 5 beds in ours. There's free internet to catch up on the blog and the world, and I was asleep before 11.
Got an early start, and after a very nice breakfast back in the cellar (hardboiled eggs, granola, and oranges), I caught the tram downtown. I had some time before the walking tour commenced, so I checked out a park on the Vltava River, overlooking the city. Impressive views, under the shadow of Prague's "Metronome". Found out later it replaced a statue of Stalin, and it represents the country's "time for freedom". I climbed back down, and across the bridge I was swallowed by Old Town Prague.
Walked the cobbled sidewalks to the square and met up with our tour guide, a Czech girl who spoke English with a very entertaining accent. We walked the city, checking out Wenceslas Square, the Jewish Quarter, and learning about Czech and Prague history, from the middle ages up to the "Velvet Revolution" in 1989, when the people emerged from behind the Iron Curtain. Many statues along the way, sometimes bizarre... Wenceslas on his horse, and a depiction of local Franz Kafka, and one of his dreams. 3 hours of walking under cloudy skies, but we lucked out and stayed dry.
We finished near an above-ground cemetary in the Jewish Quarter, and I joined up for lunch with Dave and Daniel, a super cool Australian couple who also took the tour. Sat down at a nearbye restaurant for another Czech specialty, goulash. Great food, but better company. Talked about everything from TV ("Friends" is big in Australia) to politics (America is sooooo under the worldwide microscope). Parted ways, hoping to meet up in Rome next month.
I walked deeper into Old Town, setting up a hotel for tomorrow night in Bethleham Square, in the heart of Prague. Now I sit, enjoying a tea, and I'm really starting to catch the vibe in this wonderful city.
Trammed it back to the hostel for one more night. Wandered around a bit, but this side of town shuts down pretty early (hence my move tomorrow). Had some ok pizza next door at this cool little restaurant.. great, cozy little room in the cellar / dungeon, decked out with old radios and funky artifacts from the 40's. Too much food, but it was cheap. Prague still uses the Koruna for currency instead of the euro, and the dollar is starting to go a lot further (as Europe matches our ongoing economic disaster). Basically, 200 Koruna, or crown, which is roughly $10, got me a half liter of Stella, a bottle of water, and a pizza big enough for three. Not bad!
Tuesday. Prague
After a nice hot shower, I picked up my laundry (that the hostel washed and dried for me), grabbed some breakfast, and walked to the train station to reserve my seat to Vienna. Hopped the tram, and 6 stops later I crossed another bridge over the Vltava River, and checked into the hotel. The architecture in the streets is just unreal... statues and carvings poking around the most random of corners. My new lodgings, Hotel Betel, are nice, not too expensive, and in a fantastic location. Signed up for an extra night, dropped my luggage, and headed out into the rain. Grabbing some lunch at U Betlemske Kaple, a restaurant the girl working the desk at the hostel recommended, for some decent food and pretty bad service.
I walked around for most of the afternoon. The morning rain showers finally stopped, and it isn't too cold. The crowds are out, celebrating their Independence Day from 1918. Love getting lost in these streets. Quite the maze, Prague is. The sunset is early, by 5 PM the skies are dark. So I went walking, happy to find my hotel again, and pressed on, crossing the famous "Charles Bridge", which offered spectacular views of Old Town and Prague Castle, lit up like a Christmas tree.
After walking awhile, I found a jazz club for dinner and live music. The service was terrible, the food was pretty lousy, and we only got three songs out of the band. Kind of a scam... but since everything isn't crazy expensive, what can you do. Just wish I had those two hours back. Oh well.. you live and learn...
Wednesday. Prague.
Didn't sleep all that well in my hotel last night. Honestly, the bed at Sir Toby's hostel was much more comfortable. Funny how that works... what you sacrifice for a better location. And this is a PERFECT spot. Hopped downstairs to my hotel's Gothic cellar, and had a decent breakfast, before hitting the shower and heading out into a misting rain. Not enough to drench or require an umbrella. I hiked back across Charles Bridge, getting some better views in the daylight. My destination, Prague Castle, was within sight.
Munich's been good to me, but it's time to roll on. Packed up my gear, and grabbed the free breakfast at our beautiful dining room downstairs, in the Hotel Am Markt. I'd seriously recommend this hotel... the rooms are little but comfortable, and the location cannot be beat, in the heart of old town Munich. I talked with an older German fellow over breakfast, who was heading to the States next week. Really with I had more time to chat, as he was very friendly, and had grown up in late 1930's Munich, just when things started to get crazy. But my train was calling, and I took the long walk through an eerily empty Marianplatz, and now I wait at the Hauptbanhof for Prague.
Ah, Munich. So welcoming... very easy to get around. Aside from our day trip to Dachau, I only used one subway, to the English Garden (which really isn't a bad walk as well). I'll try to remember the little things... roasted almonds while listening to choirs and string quartets in front of the Glockenspiel... the supercool Australian girl Kat, and how she'd switch to an American, valley girl accent "Do you guys, know where I can get, some water?" (u had to be there)... and how all the Aussies I met knew word for word the theme song to the old "Gummy Bears" cartoon.
Foggy outside... an hour into my 6 hour train ride to Prague. Stopping right now in Neufahrn. Comfortable train... I have my own cabin... but there's no food. Glad I have some beef jerky and a cliff bar on this straight shot to Prague. I am curious about the 3 men walking up and down the hall, dressed in green, with pistols. I'll hide behind my passport. Stopped at the border, at Firth I Wald, about to enter the Czech Republic.
And here I am in a new country! The fog has burned off and the sun is shining...forrest terrain outside my window, and much rockier than I've see so far. Stopped in Plzen, an hour or so outside Prague, in a depressing little train station. A guy opens the door to my cabin, sits down, and starts speaking Czech. I apologize, and he switches to English to tell me his sad story and ask for money. A bit unsettling, but I said sorry, can't help (I still only have euros, anyway --- have yet to convert to the Czech Koruna, or Crown), and just like that he left. I saw him outside as our train left, I guess waiting for the next.
Showed up in Prague as the sun was setting, got a bit turned around at the train station, and finally found the right tram to my hostel, Sir Toby's. Amazing place... but a bit outside the center of town. Great people here, not only offering a free map, but disecting it for me, showing me where the best spots were, and how to best get around. I hit up a traditional Czech restaurant down the street they recommended, for some incredible grilled duck, dumplings, and red cabbage. All washed down with some fantastic Pilsner Urquell.
Monday. Prague
Great night of sleep at Sir Toby's. I've got very cool roommates, an older couple from Australia, and we got to know each other at the hostel's bar, located in it's gothic cellar. Very cozy space, although after my feast of duck and dumplings, I could only knock down a cup of tea at the bar. The rooms are spacious, and we've only got 5 beds in ours. There's free internet to catch up on the blog and the world, and I was asleep before 11.
Got an early start, and after a very nice breakfast back in the cellar (hardboiled eggs, granola, and oranges), I caught the tram downtown. I had some time before the walking tour commenced, so I checked out a park on the Vltava River, overlooking the city. Impressive views, under the shadow of Prague's "Metronome". Found out later it replaced a statue of Stalin, and it represents the country's "time for freedom". I climbed back down, and across the bridge I was swallowed by Old Town Prague.
Walked the cobbled sidewalks to the square and met up with our tour guide, a Czech girl who spoke English with a very entertaining accent. We walked the city, checking out Wenceslas Square, the Jewish Quarter, and learning about Czech and Prague history, from the middle ages up to the "Velvet Revolution" in 1989, when the people emerged from behind the Iron Curtain. Many statues along the way, sometimes bizarre... Wenceslas on his horse, and a depiction of local Franz Kafka, and one of his dreams. 3 hours of walking under cloudy skies, but we lucked out and stayed dry.
We finished near an above-ground cemetary in the Jewish Quarter, and I joined up for lunch with Dave and Daniel, a super cool Australian couple who also took the tour. Sat down at a nearbye restaurant for another Czech specialty, goulash. Great food, but better company. Talked about everything from TV ("Friends" is big in Australia) to politics (America is sooooo under the worldwide microscope). Parted ways, hoping to meet up in Rome next month.
I walked deeper into Old Town, setting up a hotel for tomorrow night in Bethleham Square, in the heart of Prague. Now I sit, enjoying a tea, and I'm really starting to catch the vibe in this wonderful city.
Trammed it back to the hostel for one more night. Wandered around a bit, but this side of town shuts down pretty early (hence my move tomorrow). Had some ok pizza next door at this cool little restaurant.. great, cozy little room in the cellar / dungeon, decked out with old radios and funky artifacts from the 40's. Too much food, but it was cheap. Prague still uses the Koruna for currency instead of the euro, and the dollar is starting to go a lot further (as Europe matches our ongoing economic disaster). Basically, 200 Koruna, or crown, which is roughly $10, got me a half liter of Stella, a bottle of water, and a pizza big enough for three. Not bad!
Tuesday. Prague
After a nice hot shower, I picked up my laundry (that the hostel washed and dried for me), grabbed some breakfast, and walked to the train station to reserve my seat to Vienna. Hopped the tram, and 6 stops later I crossed another bridge over the Vltava River, and checked into the hotel. The architecture in the streets is just unreal... statues and carvings poking around the most random of corners. My new lodgings, Hotel Betel, are nice, not too expensive, and in a fantastic location. Signed up for an extra night, dropped my luggage, and headed out into the rain. Grabbing some lunch at U Betlemske Kaple, a restaurant the girl working the desk at the hostel recommended, for some decent food and pretty bad service.
I walked around for most of the afternoon. The morning rain showers finally stopped, and it isn't too cold. The crowds are out, celebrating their Independence Day from 1918. Love getting lost in these streets. Quite the maze, Prague is. The sunset is early, by 5 PM the skies are dark. So I went walking, happy to find my hotel again, and pressed on, crossing the famous "Charles Bridge", which offered spectacular views of Old Town and Prague Castle, lit up like a Christmas tree.
After walking awhile, I found a jazz club for dinner and live music. The service was terrible, the food was pretty lousy, and we only got three songs out of the band. Kind of a scam... but since everything isn't crazy expensive, what can you do. Just wish I had those two hours back. Oh well.. you live and learn...
Wednesday. Prague.
Didn't sleep all that well in my hotel last night. Honestly, the bed at Sir Toby's hostel was much more comfortable. Funny how that works... what you sacrifice for a better location. And this is a PERFECT spot. Hopped downstairs to my hotel's Gothic cellar, and had a decent breakfast, before hitting the shower and heading out into a misting rain. Not enough to drench or require an umbrella. I hiked back across Charles Bridge, getting some better views in the daylight. My destination, Prague Castle, was within sight.
Hopped a tram on the other side of the river, and rode the winding, switchback route to the castle above. I signed up for the audio tour, and made my way into St. Vitus Cathedral, the castle's focal point. Very impressive... hundreds of years to complete, and soooo over the top. I think I prefer it from the outside, just appreciating the incredible Gothic architecture. I wasn't really all that into the audio tour, so I just wandered around, following the Golden Lane to an incredible overlook of the city. And now I sit, enjoying 2 cups of amazing hot chocolate (I only ordered one --- gotta love that service!). Not looking forward to getting back outside... it has turned bitterly cold, and the rain has picked up.
Back near Charles Bridge, instead of crossing it again, I followed the river, through Kampa Park. Found some more of Prague's curious statues in the process. Stopped off in a warm and cozy looking a restaurant, the Stara Praha, and I'm getting good service! The waiter had a hard time explaining the rabbit dish, so he sent somebody over who spoke English. Score! Gonna give it a try, so here goes. Stevie Wonder's playing on the hi-fi, and a British family is dining next to me. It's very nice being out of the cold.
Good lunch. Rabbit, spinach, and of course, dumplings.... with a starter of fried sardines. The fish wasn't bad, although I just couldn't eat the heads. The entire meal was presented beautifully, as has been the case in most of Prague's restaurants that I've visited. Another constant is the collection of dumplings... which are basically soft bread discs. All in all a solid meal, and I took my time, before heading back out into the cold.
It was pretty much a dud when it came to the weather today. The rain didn't quit, and so so cold. Almost 3 weeks into my European trip, and today was by far the worst. Other than that I've been so fortunate, weather-wise. Took a nap back in my hotel room, and bought a ticket for one of the many nightly concerts in the area. It's right down the street, in St. Giles Church. The cathedral is huge, and quite beautiful on the inside, and tucked in with the other buildings down a side street, steps from my hotel. Concert-hopping is big in Prague, and while I'm not usually a big classical fan, this sounds nice on a cold, rainy night. It's a string ensemble, plus the church's 300 year old pipe organ, and they alternate with standards from Mozart, Vivaldi, and Bach.
Just wish I could find some non-traditional restaurant for a light dinner. I'm so over the dumplings and meat. Please please no more. Lucked out with a small sandwich shop, and here I sit, waiting for the concert to begin in exquisite St. Giles Church, founded in 1238. This place would be a national treasure back in the States... yet over here, it's just one of many, tucked in the back alley of a back alley. (Prague is a series of back alleys, streets lined with bricks and tiles).
The concert is a fitting way to wrap up my time in Prague. It really is an amazing city. It reminds me of what you'd picture a medieval "castle town" would be. It took me 4 days to (sort of) figure my way around, but it's a great place to get lost in. The strings are tuning up... can't figure out where they're coming from. Ahhh... here they come, setting up right in the center, in front of the altar. This is very cool. And the sounds are just perfect... the stringed quartet plays a few numbers, and then the pipe organ takes over... the organist is unseen, high up in the rafters behind us. And the strings move into "Ave Maria". Mmmm...
Thursday. Leaving Prague.
On my way. Had a nice walk to the tram stop this morning, the sun is trying to peek through, but rain clouds in the distance are threatening. Good night's sleep, but many elaborate, emotional dreams. Hanging out in Prague's smaller train station, Nadrazi Holesovice, waiting on my train to Vienna.
I really liked Prague... the city is amazing, but hard to find many people who want to speak English. Next time, a hostel near old town would be the way to go. It's funny, I remember when I first arrived, how confusing the city was. But after four days I really started to feel comfortable walking the streets, and following the tram routes. I guess that's been the case everywhere... kinda fun expanding the horizons a bit, eh? The train just passed Brno, the last stop in the Czech Republic. Almost in my fifth country this trip... Austria here I come! Beautiful day outside... I hope it sticks with us in Vienna. Chatted with a girl from Boston in the seat behind me... she's studying in Rome but was visiting friends in Prague.
Quick four hour train ride, and I stepped off into the warm, Austrian sunshine, at Vienna's Sudbanhof (south train station). I phoned Missy, the friend I'd be staying with, and hopped a tram to Hutteldorf in Vienna's 14th district. It's beautiful outside... I can't believe how much warmer it is than Prague. Off the tram, I hopped two quick stops via bus and walked to Missy and her husband Kai's spacious apartment, across a footbridge and above a church.
It was great meeting everybody (Missy is the sister of Larry Workman, First American Title LEGEND). Missy, Kai, and their friend MaryAnn, who was visiting from the states, welcomed me with open arms, and it was VERY nice to speak some English. Missy cooked up some spaghetti, which I promptly inhaled, as it was my first home-cooked meal since London... so long ago. She and MaryAnn left to teach an English class, and Kai and I headed into downtown Vienna. Kai, who's German, speaks the language and was a great tour guide, as we hoofed it past palaces, cathedrals, and my favorite: Rathaus, or City Hall. It was lit up like a castle, and prepped for Christmas, when it would be turned into a gigantic Advent calendar. We hopped a few trams and U-Bahns (subways) to meet up with the ladies, and the four of us hit up one of the infamous coffee houses, Cafe Landtmann. VERY fancy... it's been around forever, and was one of Freud's preferred hangouts. After coffee and buns, we cruised back to the house and chatted till midnight, when I finally retired to my cozy room in the church's basement, complete with its own shower. Great little space, and I slept like a log.
Friday. Vienna.
Woke up to the alarm and headed upstairs for a traditional Austrian breakfast. Such a feast Missy prepared... cold cuts, cheeses, soft-boiled eggs, and AMAZING pumpkin seed muffins. Kai had a busy day, so MaryAnn, Missy, and I hopped the U-Bahn to the city. Walked through a beautiful park (the day was warm and sunny), to Schonbrunn Palace, the "Summer Home" of the infamous Habsburg family. The house was decent, but the uphill walk to the views of Vienna was the highlight by far. Beautiful structure waiting for us at the top of the hill, with intricately detailed statues, and more impressive views from the roof. We hung out for awhile on top of Vienna, before hiking back through the gardens below.
We trammed a bit farther into the city, stopping by Hundertwasserhaus, a funky residential development plopped in the middle of the city, and designed by an almost eccentric local artist, Hundertwasser. Walked the area and finished the day outside of town, starting at the United Nations building, and strolled a few miles along the Danube River. A beautiful walk... the sun was setting, and I was surprised to see so few people out and about, it being such a perfect day. Took a couple scenic trams back home, finishing with the "49'er", which runs right past their house. I walked into downtown Hutteldorf to mow down some sushi, and hit up a local cafe for some espresso and strudel before bed. After so many miles on foot today, I hit the sack hard.
Saturday. Vienna.
Popped upstairs foir another big breakfast with my generous hosts. Kai and Missy have really spoiled me this weekend, and it's been very nice to recharge my batteries before heading to Italy. They had a busy day planned, so MaryAnn and I headed into town. We toured a number of the sights that Kai and I blasted through Thursday night. Checked out Hofburg Palace, paying Mozart a visit. The day was supposed to be rainy and cold, but we lucked out with the opposite. Walked into the heart of Vienna, seeing the Roman ruins, unearthed and on display near the Albertina.
Visited St. Peters next, and while I've seen many cathedrals on this trip, this one is my favorite so far. It's definitely not the biggest, but I couldn't help staring in awe at the painted ceiling / fresco, painted by JM Rottmayr. The area on which St. Peter's stands was once a Roman church, and daily mass has been celebrated here for 1600 years. We paused for a few minutes before leaving, making sure to circle the building. Glad we did... because there on the outer wall was the huge relief sculpture by R. Weyr. My my my...
Strolled downtown Vienna's main drag, Karntnerstrasse, stopping for freshly roasted chestnuts as we circled St. Stephan's cathedral. Huge Gothic-style church, that they've been restoring for years now. Acid rain has taken its toll, turning the walls black, but they are definitely making progress. We stopped inside for a bit, and headed farther down Kartner. Most of the stores were closed for All Saint's Day, but the crowds and street performers were out in full force. Moved a bit further through the city, checking out the Opera House, Neue Hofburg, Volks Garten, and finally the Rathaus (city hall). We passed a large demonstration along the way, with protestors and police keeping tabs on each other.
And then the Rathaus... so beautiful in the setting sun. Made it back home for yet another incredible home-cooked meal... baked chicken with crab stuffing, mashed potatos, and green beens. So nice to skip the restaurants for a few nights... thanks Missy!!! Headed to bed early, as I had an early morning train to catch, to Venice.
That's it for now... I write this after an amazing week in Venice and Rome. But that, my friends, is as they say, another story...
Europe Part 3 - Munich
Wednesday. Leaving Amsterdam
Gonna miss you, A-Dam. Nothing like 10 hours of solid sleep to get the mind and body ready for another country. Cleared out of my room at the Tulip Inn after a hot shower, and grabbed a banana at one of the countless produce counters scattered throughout the city. London was big on this as well... that's something we really need back home.
Walked the 10 minutes down Voorburgwal to Centraal Train Station, and walked right to the platform, where I waited for my train to Munich. Ahh, Amsterdam. Reminds me a bit of Las Vegas, where you just try to make it out alive. But unlike Vegas, it's unbelievably beautiful, with the architecture, the canals, and the brick-lined streets. It's pretty easy to communicate, as most of the locals speak English, but it wouldn't hurt to learn a few Dutch words, just in case.
The train to Munich is underway! This is definitely the way to travel.. my high speed train to Germany. We're speeding up as we leave the city center behind. It's incredibly smooth. I'm in the 1st class car, which is very comfortable and about half full. The 1st class option wasn't really an option with my Eurail train pass, which I bought back in the states. First class was required because of my age (over 26, I think). It was rather expensive at the time, but now is when I'm thankful for it. And this is how I'll travel throughout the rest of Europe... not bad!
Just crossed into Germany... the train is waiting at the station in Koln. Just beyond the station, I can see a towering, multi-tiered cathedral. Koln looks pretty big, on the banks of a major river. "Monty Python's Spamalot" is playing at the art-deco Ford theater nearby. And we're underway, once again. The train is pretty smart... plenty of electronic signs with info in English. We're really hauling... 300 kph, which is just over 186 miles per hour. The middle of the train contains the bistro, where I stopped for a decent tuna salad. And beyond that I just relax, watching the rolling hills of Germany pass by. Beautiful. It doesn't look real... with the little villages scattered amongst the green... with the leaves that are changing. It reminds me of what I'd see riding the rails through my Dad's train set, back when I was growing up.
And here I am, in Munich! I hopped off the train, and found my hostel immediately. A bit chilly outside, and a misting rain. Reserved a bed at the "Wombat", a few blocks from the train station and on the edge of downtown. Very glad I did. This place is amazing... very clean, friendly staff, free internet, laundry, bar, and a beautiful atrium in the middle of the complex, where you can kick back and relax. Too many amenities to list. It makes Bob's in Amsterdam look not so nice, by comparison.
Walked up to my room on the 4th floor, with 6 beds and everybody was home. I met the crew, which is the way to go, right off the bat. That way you aren't wondering who you're living with. Laura from Manchester, Emily and Matt from the states, and Rachel from Australia. VERY cool people... we hit it off, and chatted for an hour before heading downstairs to the bar for a beer. Laura's friend Dan, from Ontario, joined us and we headed outside into the cold rain for a traditional Bavarian dinner. Slept quite well that night in my bunk. It's so nice to have cool, laid-back roomies.
Thursday. Munich.
Day 14 of my travels and I'm feeling good, although it's turned COLD outside. The temps are in the 40's. No rain all day, but when that wind kicks up, yikes. I hit up the hostel with my roommates for a pretty lame breakfast and terrible coffee. I'll let it slide, since the place is all in all VERY nice. Better than many hotels, even. I signed on for a 3rd night here at Wombat's, as we're close to everything, the people are great, and you can't beat the price (21 euros).
Another great thing about Wombat, is they offer free walking tours every morning, and I lined up with two of my roomies, Americans Matt and Emily. Our guide, Ozzie, (complete with lederhosen) took us out into the city for over 3 hours, spending much of our time in the old town, or Aldtstat. So much history. We walked through the famous square, Marianplatz, noticing that most of the buidings were only 60 years old. Most of Munich was destroyed in WWII, and only a few pieces remained: the two clock towers and the glockenspiel avoided bombardment because, due to their heights, the American bombers used them for navigation.
We stopped in a couple churches, one in which we hovered around the "Devil's Footprint". (He supposedly helped finish the structrure when the town ran out of money). The Glockenspiel was quite impressive, and we received some more of our history lesson in the plaza, or Marianplatz, while waiting for the clock to chime. After that, we stopped for bratwurst at a huge outdoor beer garden, and stopped for a heffeweisen (Munich's breakfast beer) in a beer hall. If you couldn't tell, beer is HUGE here, what with Oktoberfest and Haufbrauhaus, which we passed by on our tour. It's the world's most famous beer hall, but it's extremely touristy. It's also where Hitler started to bring toether the Nazi Party.
Munich was Hitler's capital, and our guide was a 3rd Reich expert. Fascinating stuff, as we made our way through the same streets the Nazis did in 1923 after the Beer Hall Push (sp?). We finished our tour at the "3rd Blockade", where Munich stopped Hilter's coux, and instead of executing him for treason, slapped him on the wrist with 8 months in prison so he could write "Mein Kampf". And this, Bavaria's shame, is glossed over even today... and that's why people think of Munich mainly for beer, and Berlin for WWII history.
Beyond the blockade was a huge Catholic church, where strings were playing, and we followed an alley of golden bricks, where Bavarians who were ashamed of Hitler's rise to power would walk, skipping the blockade. They did this even after Hitler placed plainclothes policemen there, watching for people who rebelled. He set up Dachau, the 1st Nazi concentration camp, in the suburbs of Munich to imprison German citizens like these, and eventually Jews and others would fill Dachau. My hostel offers guided tours of Dachau, which I'll be signing up for tomorrow.
But enough of the heavy stuff for today. I'm trying to warm up in a coffee shop, and about to head back to the old town to look for a good hotel for my last night in Munich.
Friday. Munich.
It's amazing how two hostels can be so completely different. This is my last night at Wombat's, and it's night and day compared to Bob's in Amsterdam. I can't remember the last time I've met cooler people... I've just felt so welcome from the 1st night I arrived. The Americans in my room, Matt and Emily, left today, and were replaced by two women, Mickey and Yvonne. So now I'm the lone male in our room of 6. I really like Rachel and Pauline, both Australian, and as cool as cool gets. But when it came to hanging out, I had an absolute blast with Matt and Emily, plus two other Australian women, Kat and Suzie.
I finished up Thursday night in Munich with a bang. Went back to the hostel after finding a cool looking hotel for Saturday night. Did some laundry, and in the process met Kat and Suzie. Chatted for an hour, and we made dinner plans. The 3 of us met up with Matt and EM, had a beer at the hostel's bar (Wom-bar), and walked up to the Augustiner. Amazing beer hall that our tour guide recommended, over the usual tourist choice: Hofbrauhaus. The place was a madhouse... very crowded, but we had no problem getting a spot at a big wooden table, which we shared with some friendly locals. The tradition in Bavaria is to get your Weiss by the liter, which we had no issue subscribing to. The food was amazing. I ordered pork liver after the duck was sold out (I'll need to go vegetarian for at least a month after this trip is over). Such a great time. Amazing how you can chat with peple like you've been friends for years. After dinner, we headed badck home, and chatted till 3 am in the hostel's impressive atrium / garden. Just didn't want the night to end. I'd be the only one left the next morning. It's time to meet some new people... so it goes.
Friday, after a late night, I was surprised to wake up so early. But I wanted to meet up with a tour guide who took us out to the suburbs of Munich, to Dachau.
Dachau was the 1st Nazi concentration camp, originally built to house only 5000 of Hilter's German enemies, but eventually held tens of thousands of Jews, Catholics, Gypsies, and others, in horrific conditions. It was a cold, gray day, and much of the camp still stands. We followed the path the prisoners walked after being taken off the train, stopped in the courtyard where the soldiers would beat and mock them, and passed under the original gatehouse, entering the camp through the gate.
Our Irish tour guide was top rate, and we toured the camp for over 3 hours. We stopped in the interogation room, explored replicas of the barracks (the originals were destroyed after the war), and paused at the crematorium. The whole thing was just so much to take... something you want to turn away from, but something we can never forget. Walking through the sight stirs up some powerful emotions, and I don't know what else to say about that.
After walking out in a total daze... (stunned is a decent word), I regrouped with Krista, a fellow Michigander and Wombat resident who hung out with me during the tour. We returned to Munich, and the sunshine, and walked the Marianplatz where we caught a U-bahn (subway) to the English Gardens, basically Munich's central park. Strolled the paths under falling leaves, reflecting on the Dachau tour and present day politics. She's a very sharp woman, real good head on her shoulders.. a physician's assistant who now lives in San Francisco, after leaving her home town of Ludington, MI. We stopped off for a beer at a cool "mini beer house", on the western edge of the park, before heading back to the hostel. I rolled into bed a bit earlier tonight (midnight), not really sure how I felt about mooving out of the hostel tomorrow night.
Saturday. Munich.
Woke up to a beautiful, clear day, and headed to the train station after checking out of the hostel. REALLY going to miss the Wombat... especially the people. But move on I must. Reserved my seat on tomorrow's train to Prague, and took the walk to my new accomodations: Hotel Am Markt, located in the heart of Old Town. It's down a cool little alley, lined with pubs, between the Marianplatz and the huge outdoor market we visited on our walking tour. Checked into my room and dumped my luggage, managing to bump my head on the low ceiling between bath and bedroom. Ouch. Definitely saw stars... but I'm surprised I haven't done it more often... Europe isn't built for tall drinks of water such as myself. I regrouped and headed to the market.
Sat down for bratwurst and potato salad with a very nice couple from Frankfurt. We talked about my journeys (in English), and they scholed me on proper Bavarian sausage ettiquette. I should have had the Weisswurst (white sausage), since it was before noon. They took pity and gave me a chunk of theirs, which was delicious. Even tasted good after I found out what it is: veal, calf brains, and spleen. With the spices, it was so good, especially with the traditional chunk of soft pretzel.
After lunch, I took a stroll along the Isar River, to the Deutsches Museum... the world's largest for science and technology. Very impressive... technology from shipping to astronautics, to ceramics, to robotics, to aviation, farming to printing to electricity to... I think you get the picture. When they mean the world's biggest, they mean it. Everything is here, and I mean EVERYTHING. I got a bit burned out after a few hours, so here I sit in the cafe, enjoying an apple and a box of water.
Finished up the tour, and headed back to the hotel for some rest, hitting up the beer garden once again for a "big boy pretzel". Found a great little sushi bar near my hotel for a much needed "non-meat" meal. I was well overdue. Walked around a bit, and hit the sack early, falling asleep to Germany's version of "America's Got Talent". If you ask me, the judges are way too polite to some AWFUL singers.
Well that's Munich... Such a great time here... met some fantastic people, and just felt so very welcome throughout. It's not easy to leave... but Prague and Vienna are next. Keep reading, and I'll keep writing! Thanks everybody, and talk to you soon...
Gonna miss you, A-Dam. Nothing like 10 hours of solid sleep to get the mind and body ready for another country. Cleared out of my room at the Tulip Inn after a hot shower, and grabbed a banana at one of the countless produce counters scattered throughout the city. London was big on this as well... that's something we really need back home.
Walked the 10 minutes down Voorburgwal to Centraal Train Station, and walked right to the platform, where I waited for my train to Munich. Ahh, Amsterdam. Reminds me a bit of Las Vegas, where you just try to make it out alive. But unlike Vegas, it's unbelievably beautiful, with the architecture, the canals, and the brick-lined streets. It's pretty easy to communicate, as most of the locals speak English, but it wouldn't hurt to learn a few Dutch words, just in case.
The train to Munich is underway! This is definitely the way to travel.. my high speed train to Germany. We're speeding up as we leave the city center behind. It's incredibly smooth. I'm in the 1st class car, which is very comfortable and about half full. The 1st class option wasn't really an option with my Eurail train pass, which I bought back in the states. First class was required because of my age (over 26, I think). It was rather expensive at the time, but now is when I'm thankful for it. And this is how I'll travel throughout the rest of Europe... not bad!
Just crossed into Germany... the train is waiting at the station in Koln. Just beyond the station, I can see a towering, multi-tiered cathedral. Koln looks pretty big, on the banks of a major river. "Monty Python's Spamalot" is playing at the art-deco Ford theater nearby. And we're underway, once again. The train is pretty smart... plenty of electronic signs with info in English. We're really hauling... 300 kph, which is just over 186 miles per hour. The middle of the train contains the bistro, where I stopped for a decent tuna salad. And beyond that I just relax, watching the rolling hills of Germany pass by. Beautiful. It doesn't look real... with the little villages scattered amongst the green... with the leaves that are changing. It reminds me of what I'd see riding the rails through my Dad's train set, back when I was growing up.
And here I am, in Munich! I hopped off the train, and found my hostel immediately. A bit chilly outside, and a misting rain. Reserved a bed at the "Wombat", a few blocks from the train station and on the edge of downtown. Very glad I did. This place is amazing... very clean, friendly staff, free internet, laundry, bar, and a beautiful atrium in the middle of the complex, where you can kick back and relax. Too many amenities to list. It makes Bob's in Amsterdam look not so nice, by comparison.
Walked up to my room on the 4th floor, with 6 beds and everybody was home. I met the crew, which is the way to go, right off the bat. That way you aren't wondering who you're living with. Laura from Manchester, Emily and Matt from the states, and Rachel from Australia. VERY cool people... we hit it off, and chatted for an hour before heading downstairs to the bar for a beer. Laura's friend Dan, from Ontario, joined us and we headed outside into the cold rain for a traditional Bavarian dinner. Slept quite well that night in my bunk. It's so nice to have cool, laid-back roomies.
Thursday. Munich.
Day 14 of my travels and I'm feeling good, although it's turned COLD outside. The temps are in the 40's. No rain all day, but when that wind kicks up, yikes. I hit up the hostel with my roommates for a pretty lame breakfast and terrible coffee. I'll let it slide, since the place is all in all VERY nice. Better than many hotels, even. I signed on for a 3rd night here at Wombat's, as we're close to everything, the people are great, and you can't beat the price (21 euros).
Another great thing about Wombat, is they offer free walking tours every morning, and I lined up with two of my roomies, Americans Matt and Emily. Our guide, Ozzie, (complete with lederhosen) took us out into the city for over 3 hours, spending much of our time in the old town, or Aldtstat. So much history. We walked through the famous square, Marianplatz, noticing that most of the buidings were only 60 years old. Most of Munich was destroyed in WWII, and only a few pieces remained: the two clock towers and the glockenspiel avoided bombardment because, due to their heights, the American bombers used them for navigation.
We stopped in a couple churches, one in which we hovered around the "Devil's Footprint". (He supposedly helped finish the structrure when the town ran out of money). The Glockenspiel was quite impressive, and we received some more of our history lesson in the plaza, or Marianplatz, while waiting for the clock to chime. After that, we stopped for bratwurst at a huge outdoor beer garden, and stopped for a heffeweisen (Munich's breakfast beer) in a beer hall. If you couldn't tell, beer is HUGE here, what with Oktoberfest and Haufbrauhaus, which we passed by on our tour. It's the world's most famous beer hall, but it's extremely touristy. It's also where Hitler started to bring toether the Nazi Party.
Munich was Hitler's capital, and our guide was a 3rd Reich expert. Fascinating stuff, as we made our way through the same streets the Nazis did in 1923 after the Beer Hall Push (sp?). We finished our tour at the "3rd Blockade", where Munich stopped Hilter's coux, and instead of executing him for treason, slapped him on the wrist with 8 months in prison so he could write "Mein Kampf". And this, Bavaria's shame, is glossed over even today... and that's why people think of Munich mainly for beer, and Berlin for WWII history.
Beyond the blockade was a huge Catholic church, where strings were playing, and we followed an alley of golden bricks, where Bavarians who were ashamed of Hitler's rise to power would walk, skipping the blockade. They did this even after Hitler placed plainclothes policemen there, watching for people who rebelled. He set up Dachau, the 1st Nazi concentration camp, in the suburbs of Munich to imprison German citizens like these, and eventually Jews and others would fill Dachau. My hostel offers guided tours of Dachau, which I'll be signing up for tomorrow.
But enough of the heavy stuff for today. I'm trying to warm up in a coffee shop, and about to head back to the old town to look for a good hotel for my last night in Munich.
Friday. Munich.
It's amazing how two hostels can be so completely different. This is my last night at Wombat's, and it's night and day compared to Bob's in Amsterdam. I can't remember the last time I've met cooler people... I've just felt so welcome from the 1st night I arrived. The Americans in my room, Matt and Emily, left today, and were replaced by two women, Mickey and Yvonne. So now I'm the lone male in our room of 6. I really like Rachel and Pauline, both Australian, and as cool as cool gets. But when it came to hanging out, I had an absolute blast with Matt and Emily, plus two other Australian women, Kat and Suzie.
I finished up Thursday night in Munich with a bang. Went back to the hostel after finding a cool looking hotel for Saturday night. Did some laundry, and in the process met Kat and Suzie. Chatted for an hour, and we made dinner plans. The 3 of us met up with Matt and EM, had a beer at the hostel's bar (Wom-bar), and walked up to the Augustiner. Amazing beer hall that our tour guide recommended, over the usual tourist choice: Hofbrauhaus. The place was a madhouse... very crowded, but we had no problem getting a spot at a big wooden table, which we shared with some friendly locals. The tradition in Bavaria is to get your Weiss by the liter, which we had no issue subscribing to. The food was amazing. I ordered pork liver after the duck was sold out (I'll need to go vegetarian for at least a month after this trip is over). Such a great time. Amazing how you can chat with peple like you've been friends for years. After dinner, we headed badck home, and chatted till 3 am in the hostel's impressive atrium / garden. Just didn't want the night to end. I'd be the only one left the next morning. It's time to meet some new people... so it goes.
Friday, after a late night, I was surprised to wake up so early. But I wanted to meet up with a tour guide who took us out to the suburbs of Munich, to Dachau.
Dachau was the 1st Nazi concentration camp, originally built to house only 5000 of Hilter's German enemies, but eventually held tens of thousands of Jews, Catholics, Gypsies, and others, in horrific conditions. It was a cold, gray day, and much of the camp still stands. We followed the path the prisoners walked after being taken off the train, stopped in the courtyard where the soldiers would beat and mock them, and passed under the original gatehouse, entering the camp through the gate.
Our Irish tour guide was top rate, and we toured the camp for over 3 hours. We stopped in the interogation room, explored replicas of the barracks (the originals were destroyed after the war), and paused at the crematorium. The whole thing was just so much to take... something you want to turn away from, but something we can never forget. Walking through the sight stirs up some powerful emotions, and I don't know what else to say about that.
After walking out in a total daze... (stunned is a decent word), I regrouped with Krista, a fellow Michigander and Wombat resident who hung out with me during the tour. We returned to Munich, and the sunshine, and walked the Marianplatz where we caught a U-bahn (subway) to the English Gardens, basically Munich's central park. Strolled the paths under falling leaves, reflecting on the Dachau tour and present day politics. She's a very sharp woman, real good head on her shoulders.. a physician's assistant who now lives in San Francisco, after leaving her home town of Ludington, MI. We stopped off for a beer at a cool "mini beer house", on the western edge of the park, before heading back to the hostel. I rolled into bed a bit earlier tonight (midnight), not really sure how I felt about mooving out of the hostel tomorrow night.
Saturday. Munich.
Woke up to a beautiful, clear day, and headed to the train station after checking out of the hostel. REALLY going to miss the Wombat... especially the people. But move on I must. Reserved my seat on tomorrow's train to Prague, and took the walk to my new accomodations: Hotel Am Markt, located in the heart of Old Town. It's down a cool little alley, lined with pubs, between the Marianplatz and the huge outdoor market we visited on our walking tour. Checked into my room and dumped my luggage, managing to bump my head on the low ceiling between bath and bedroom. Ouch. Definitely saw stars... but I'm surprised I haven't done it more often... Europe isn't built for tall drinks of water such as myself. I regrouped and headed to the market.
Sat down for bratwurst and potato salad with a very nice couple from Frankfurt. We talked about my journeys (in English), and they scholed me on proper Bavarian sausage ettiquette. I should have had the Weisswurst (white sausage), since it was before noon. They took pity and gave me a chunk of theirs, which was delicious. Even tasted good after I found out what it is: veal, calf brains, and spleen. With the spices, it was so good, especially with the traditional chunk of soft pretzel.
After lunch, I took a stroll along the Isar River, to the Deutsches Museum... the world's largest for science and technology. Very impressive... technology from shipping to astronautics, to ceramics, to robotics, to aviation, farming to printing to electricity to... I think you get the picture. When they mean the world's biggest, they mean it. Everything is here, and I mean EVERYTHING. I got a bit burned out after a few hours, so here I sit in the cafe, enjoying an apple and a box of water.
Finished up the tour, and headed back to the hotel for some rest, hitting up the beer garden once again for a "big boy pretzel". Found a great little sushi bar near my hotel for a much needed "non-meat" meal. I was well overdue. Walked around a bit, and hit the sack early, falling asleep to Germany's version of "America's Got Talent". If you ask me, the judges are way too polite to some AWFUL singers.
Well that's Munich... Such a great time here... met some fantastic people, and just felt so very welcome throughout. It's not easy to leave... but Prague and Vienna are next. Keep reading, and I'll keep writing! Thanks everybody, and talk to you soon...
Europe Part 2 - Tonbridge, Amsterdam
Thursday, October 16, Tonbridge.
Bear with me...I'm typing this update on a German keyboard in Munich, where the y's are z's and pressing the shift key gets me nowhere. Whee! Flash back to my last days in London... on Thursday, I finished up my last blog update, and after getting a bit lost trying to find the Gipsy Hill rail station, I was on my way into the English countryside. I was visiting friends Sam and Lisa in Tonbridge, about 45 minutes by train past rolling hills, pastures, and countless little English villages.
I stepped off into Tonbridge, a slick little town on a hill. I met up with Sam at one of the local pubs, after the kind bartender lent me her cellphone to make the call. (My cell doesnt work at all in Europe). Sam and I checked out the village, which included shops, pubs, and the 1000 year old castle. Lisa joined us for dinner at a cozy restaurant down the street from their house. A veritable FEAST ensued... fantastic mixed grill... I'm not a huge meat eater, but I'm occasionally able to make an acception. Everything was perfect... chicken, steak, sausage... all topped off with a fried egg. Everything, that is, except for the side dish of "black pudding". I tried a bite, but it's just not my thing.... (it's basically a packed, charred hockey puck of blood and animal parts). But we did have some incredible hot chocolate for dessert.
Slept over at Sam and Lisa's place, in this cool little guest house they recently built. It was tucked up the hill behind their house, through a beautiful garden. The next morning, I had a shower, and explored downtown Tonbridge. The day was sunny, but a bit cold. Temperatures have really turned more October-like in the past few days. The town itself was beautiful. I checked out the castle some more, as I wasn't able to see much in the dark the night before. Fantastic views from the castle's front yard, of the Medway River and the village below. For lunch, I stopped into the Goldbar, which Sam had highly recommended, and dined on some amazing English pie and mash. So so good... but thank God I'm walking so much, otherwise I'd travel back to the states well over 900 pounds. I hopped the afternoon train back to West Dulwich, for our last night in town before Joe and I skip country for Amsterdam.
Saturday, Amsterdam.
We arrived into the city's airport on EasyJet, one of Europe's econo-airlines. A quick 50 minute flight, a stamp of our passports, and we were released into Amsterdam. The city core is a 15 minute train ride from the airport, and we arrived about 7pm, where we began to search for a place to stay for the night. We walked down the main drag, Damrak, where thousands of people were hanging out, enjoying the weekend nightlife. After snagging a hotel, we ditched our bags to explore the city. So much going on... around every corner. Amsterdam has a night scene that reminds me a bit of Las Vegas, but just plug in some incredible architecture, hundreds of canals, and a public transit system that's dominated by bikes. You really need to keep your head on a swivel (as Joe puts it), otherwise you'll get run down.
Sunday.
We woke up early, and moved down our street to Bob's Hostel. Decent setup, with a cool little bar / lounge setup in the lobby. After a walk around town, trying to learn the area, we rented a couple bikes and joined the masses. The day was beautiful, if a bit cold, and we cruised up and down the canals... turning Amsterdam into one big video game. Stopped for some local cuisine... amazing pancakes. The main entree was similar to a pizza, but with a pancake crust. And we barely spoke as we downed the delicious meal. Jeeze...That evening we cruised back to the hostel, dodging other bikes, trams, pedestrians, and one mean old bastard of a Dutchman, who was looking to pick a fight with Americans. And back at the hostel, Joe is now my hero, because he gave the hostel bartender one of my band's new CD's, which sounded real nice in the lounge. Acoustic Carpet is now world famous!
Headed out for some dinner... fantastic sardines and cheese at a tapas place, and hit a couple clubs for some live music. The best band was over at "The Last Watering Hole".. the singer was amazing. Very few people can sing Jimmy Hendrix and Jim Morrison, but he nailed it. Sounded a bit like Joe Cocker... was sure he was American, but learned he was definitely Dutch when he spoke between songs. The highlight over at the other bar, "Bourbon Street" was the painting on the wall. It was beautifully done, and depicted the Rolling Stones in their final final farewell, being led off stage by nurses... Mick Jagger limping, Ron Wood leaning on a cane, and Keith Richards in a wheelchair, pulling an IV.
After the music and back home at the hostel, Joe and I totally lucked out, as we were the only people in our room.
Monday.
Beautiful, cold bike ride to the Hortus Botanicus (Amsterdam's botanical gardens). Amazing greenhouses to tour, with many different temperate zones to choose from: desert, tropics, etc, with streams running through. Even a banana tree! Such a nice place... so alive. We biked around the outer canals for an hour or two, stopping for a brief moment at the Anne Frank house, which I will be touring tomorrow. We dropped off our bikes, and I was happy to survive in one piece. The locals are so confident with the chaotic traffic. For instance, yesterday I watched a sharply dressed woman riding along, steering with one hand, and pulling a roller bag / suitcase with the other, which bounced around on the bricks behind her. Maybe 10 miles an hour?!? After a solid bowl of soup, Joe headed for his plane back to London, so from here on out, I'd be traveling solo.
Wandered around town for a bit, and signed up for another night at Bob's Hostel. Stopped off for some dinner at another tapas place, but nowhere near as good as the night before. Watched a bit of soccer at a sports bar with a cool guy from Frankfurt, who's hometeam Mainze was playing a big game. The bar was decent enough, but every 10 or 15 minutes, a buzzer would go off. Loud. Not really sure why... but I got used to it eventually and watched the match.
Kicked down the street to a jazz club, and planted myself at the bar, hoping for some good live music. The music in fact was solid... a trio who held their own in a fantastic little venue, but the people were the best. I met a woman from Brazil, Victoria, who was backpacking across Europe solo. Much in common (and she spoke excellent English), we chatted the night away, and a could really cool locals eventually joined us. The music took a back seat, and we really had a great time, and the bartender kept the entire place happy, including us. Such a great night...
...until I got back to my hostel. I stayed at the jazz bar until about 2, and when I got back home, somebody was in my bed! Sooo... I went down to the manager. He and his buddy, both Middle Eastern men, snapped to attention and started speaking in their own language. I didn't want to get anybody kicked out of their bed... I just needed someplace to sleep (especially since I paid for one), and it was pushing 3am. They had extra beds, but for some reason, the owner's buddy dragged me up the four flights of stairs to my original room, so I could watch him yell at the guy in my bed. They argued for a minute before I interupted and said "This no longer concerns me, get me another bed, and I'll be outside." They put me in a different room, and I eventually got a couple hours of sleep before bolting. Bob can keep his hostel...
Tuesday.
I'm still kicking, even after so little sleep. It's a bit rainy outside... the first time it's rained in awhile. Guess we were due. I took the tram over to the Anne Frank house, and took the tour. Quite powerful, stepping behind the bookcase and into the secret Annex. It's a very simple tour, which serves the history here quite well. From rrom to room, different artifacts from Anne's life are on display, along with dozens of sayings, quoted directly from her diary.
The sun is trying to peek out, and the rain is over. I walked down from the Anne Frank house to a huge church, to climb the narrow, treacherous steps of the 300 year old bell tower. I really just wanted a good view of the city, but you have to pay for a tour. The rain seemed to drive many away, and it was just the Dutch tour guide and me. On the way up, you pass 1600's era graffiti and the original tower bells, which are still used on Sundays. We wound our way higher and higher, until we stepped outside onto the balcony. Spectacular! 360 degree views of Amsterdam... snapped as many photos as I could before the tour ended, and we very carefully climbed back down.
And now, I eat pancake. This time, at Sara's Pancake house. Not as good as the first place, but still very decent: salami, peppers, and cheese. On a pancake!
My last night in Amsterdam. Sat down to a suprisingly good pile of chicken wings at a pub down the street from my new digs, the Tulip Inn. Nice hotel.. they let me check in at 9 this morning. Great bath... watched some CNN, and even did some laundry. I think this is going to be the key from city to city... hit up the hostel for the first couple of days to meet people and get a lay of the land, and finish my last night in town at a nice hotel to relax before moving on.
I'm still a bit weary, with no nap, but feeling good. This pub, just off Nieuwendijk Street, has a perfect view for people watching. It's next to the soup restaurant I've hit up twice (amazing mug of soup), and street cars are constantly passing by in front of me on MY street, Nieuwezijd Voorburgwal. Say that a few times in a row.
To Amsterdam newcomers, it's rather chaotic when you first slide into town. But it's pretty simple after a day or two. Get lost in it, as Joe and I did, and pretty soon you'll start recognizing areas, streets, and buildings. And as a last resort (or if it's raining), hop on a tram. It's pretty hard to get lost on one of those... they pretty much either head deeper into town, or return to the main train station (Centraal). They're cheap, too... (but everything is compared to London).
That's all I've got for now... Munich is next. Such a blast, but that will have to wait till next time, faithful reader!
Bear with me...I'm typing this update on a German keyboard in Munich, where the y's are z's and pressing the shift key gets me nowhere. Whee! Flash back to my last days in London... on Thursday, I finished up my last blog update, and after getting a bit lost trying to find the Gipsy Hill rail station, I was on my way into the English countryside. I was visiting friends Sam and Lisa in Tonbridge, about 45 minutes by train past rolling hills, pastures, and countless little English villages.
I stepped off into Tonbridge, a slick little town on a hill. I met up with Sam at one of the local pubs, after the kind bartender lent me her cellphone to make the call. (My cell doesnt work at all in Europe). Sam and I checked out the village, which included shops, pubs, and the 1000 year old castle. Lisa joined us for dinner at a cozy restaurant down the street from their house. A veritable FEAST ensued... fantastic mixed grill... I'm not a huge meat eater, but I'm occasionally able to make an acception. Everything was perfect... chicken, steak, sausage... all topped off with a fried egg. Everything, that is, except for the side dish of "black pudding". I tried a bite, but it's just not my thing.... (it's basically a packed, charred hockey puck of blood and animal parts). But we did have some incredible hot chocolate for dessert.
Slept over at Sam and Lisa's place, in this cool little guest house they recently built. It was tucked up the hill behind their house, through a beautiful garden. The next morning, I had a shower, and explored downtown Tonbridge. The day was sunny, but a bit cold. Temperatures have really turned more October-like in the past few days. The town itself was beautiful. I checked out the castle some more, as I wasn't able to see much in the dark the night before. Fantastic views from the castle's front yard, of the Medway River and the village below. For lunch, I stopped into the Goldbar, which Sam had highly recommended, and dined on some amazing English pie and mash. So so good... but thank God I'm walking so much, otherwise I'd travel back to the states well over 900 pounds. I hopped the afternoon train back to West Dulwich, for our last night in town before Joe and I skip country for Amsterdam.
Saturday, Amsterdam.
We arrived into the city's airport on EasyJet, one of Europe's econo-airlines. A quick 50 minute flight, a stamp of our passports, and we were released into Amsterdam. The city core is a 15 minute train ride from the airport, and we arrived about 7pm, where we began to search for a place to stay for the night. We walked down the main drag, Damrak, where thousands of people were hanging out, enjoying the weekend nightlife. After snagging a hotel, we ditched our bags to explore the city. So much going on... around every corner. Amsterdam has a night scene that reminds me a bit of Las Vegas, but just plug in some incredible architecture, hundreds of canals, and a public transit system that's dominated by bikes. You really need to keep your head on a swivel (as Joe puts it), otherwise you'll get run down.
Sunday.
We woke up early, and moved down our street to Bob's Hostel. Decent setup, with a cool little bar / lounge setup in the lobby. After a walk around town, trying to learn the area, we rented a couple bikes and joined the masses. The day was beautiful, if a bit cold, and we cruised up and down the canals... turning Amsterdam into one big video game. Stopped for some local cuisine... amazing pancakes. The main entree was similar to a pizza, but with a pancake crust. And we barely spoke as we downed the delicious meal. Jeeze...That evening we cruised back to the hostel, dodging other bikes, trams, pedestrians, and one mean old bastard of a Dutchman, who was looking to pick a fight with Americans. And back at the hostel, Joe is now my hero, because he gave the hostel bartender one of my band's new CD's, which sounded real nice in the lounge. Acoustic Carpet is now world famous!
Headed out for some dinner... fantastic sardines and cheese at a tapas place, and hit a couple clubs for some live music. The best band was over at "The Last Watering Hole".. the singer was amazing. Very few people can sing Jimmy Hendrix and Jim Morrison, but he nailed it. Sounded a bit like Joe Cocker... was sure he was American, but learned he was definitely Dutch when he spoke between songs. The highlight over at the other bar, "Bourbon Street" was the painting on the wall. It was beautifully done, and depicted the Rolling Stones in their final final farewell, being led off stage by nurses... Mick Jagger limping, Ron Wood leaning on a cane, and Keith Richards in a wheelchair, pulling an IV.
After the music and back home at the hostel, Joe and I totally lucked out, as we were the only people in our room.
Monday.
Beautiful, cold bike ride to the Hortus Botanicus (Amsterdam's botanical gardens). Amazing greenhouses to tour, with many different temperate zones to choose from: desert, tropics, etc, with streams running through. Even a banana tree! Such a nice place... so alive. We biked around the outer canals for an hour or two, stopping for a brief moment at the Anne Frank house, which I will be touring tomorrow. We dropped off our bikes, and I was happy to survive in one piece. The locals are so confident with the chaotic traffic. For instance, yesterday I watched a sharply dressed woman riding along, steering with one hand, and pulling a roller bag / suitcase with the other, which bounced around on the bricks behind her. Maybe 10 miles an hour?!? After a solid bowl of soup, Joe headed for his plane back to London, so from here on out, I'd be traveling solo.
Wandered around town for a bit, and signed up for another night at Bob's Hostel. Stopped off for some dinner at another tapas place, but nowhere near as good as the night before. Watched a bit of soccer at a sports bar with a cool guy from Frankfurt, who's hometeam Mainze was playing a big game. The bar was decent enough, but every 10 or 15 minutes, a buzzer would go off. Loud. Not really sure why... but I got used to it eventually and watched the match.
Kicked down the street to a jazz club, and planted myself at the bar, hoping for some good live music. The music in fact was solid... a trio who held their own in a fantastic little venue, but the people were the best. I met a woman from Brazil, Victoria, who was backpacking across Europe solo. Much in common (and she spoke excellent English), we chatted the night away, and a could really cool locals eventually joined us. The music took a back seat, and we really had a great time, and the bartender kept the entire place happy, including us. Such a great night...
...until I got back to my hostel. I stayed at the jazz bar until about 2, and when I got back home, somebody was in my bed! Sooo... I went down to the manager. He and his buddy, both Middle Eastern men, snapped to attention and started speaking in their own language. I didn't want to get anybody kicked out of their bed... I just needed someplace to sleep (especially since I paid for one), and it was pushing 3am. They had extra beds, but for some reason, the owner's buddy dragged me up the four flights of stairs to my original room, so I could watch him yell at the guy in my bed. They argued for a minute before I interupted and said "This no longer concerns me, get me another bed, and I'll be outside." They put me in a different room, and I eventually got a couple hours of sleep before bolting. Bob can keep his hostel...
Tuesday.
I'm still kicking, even after so little sleep. It's a bit rainy outside... the first time it's rained in awhile. Guess we were due. I took the tram over to the Anne Frank house, and took the tour. Quite powerful, stepping behind the bookcase and into the secret Annex. It's a very simple tour, which serves the history here quite well. From rrom to room, different artifacts from Anne's life are on display, along with dozens of sayings, quoted directly from her diary.
The sun is trying to peek out, and the rain is over. I walked down from the Anne Frank house to a huge church, to climb the narrow, treacherous steps of the 300 year old bell tower. I really just wanted a good view of the city, but you have to pay for a tour. The rain seemed to drive many away, and it was just the Dutch tour guide and me. On the way up, you pass 1600's era graffiti and the original tower bells, which are still used on Sundays. We wound our way higher and higher, until we stepped outside onto the balcony. Spectacular! 360 degree views of Amsterdam... snapped as many photos as I could before the tour ended, and we very carefully climbed back down.
And now, I eat pancake. This time, at Sara's Pancake house. Not as good as the first place, but still very decent: salami, peppers, and cheese. On a pancake!
My last night in Amsterdam. Sat down to a suprisingly good pile of chicken wings at a pub down the street from my new digs, the Tulip Inn. Nice hotel.. they let me check in at 9 this morning. Great bath... watched some CNN, and even did some laundry. I think this is going to be the key from city to city... hit up the hostel for the first couple of days to meet people and get a lay of the land, and finish my last night in town at a nice hotel to relax before moving on.
I'm still a bit weary, with no nap, but feeling good. This pub, just off Nieuwendijk Street, has a perfect view for people watching. It's next to the soup restaurant I've hit up twice (amazing mug of soup), and street cars are constantly passing by in front of me on MY street, Nieuwezijd Voorburgwal. Say that a few times in a row.
To Amsterdam newcomers, it's rather chaotic when you first slide into town. But it's pretty simple after a day or two. Get lost in it, as Joe and I did, and pretty soon you'll start recognizing areas, streets, and buildings. And as a last resort (or if it's raining), hop on a tram. It's pretty hard to get lost on one of those... they pretty much either head deeper into town, or return to the main train station (Centraal). They're cheap, too... (but everything is compared to London).
That's all I've got for now... Munich is next. Such a blast, but that will have to wait till next time, faithful reader!
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