DAY 21 - "Portland, Oregon"
Here I am on a bench, Sunday morning in the park, just outside the art museum. My last afternoon in Portland, the sun is shining and the air is perfect. Still a bit hazy from last night's wedding party, but other than that I feel good. Went to Shawn and Amy's hotel for some snacks, shared some pictures from the wedding, and said farewell. Then it was time to say goodbye to the Vesbits, which is never easy, but at least I'll be seeing them up in Michigan in a few weeks. They had a plane to catch, and I strolled around Portland, not quite ready to hit the road just yet.
Probably should have slept on that park bench. I am weary. Grabbed a really good lunch at Jake's, the main restaurant over in the Governor Hotel.... my favorite place to stay in Portland. So many fond Guvnuh memories from the Vesbit wedding on New Years Eve, three years ago. Picked up my truck, paid the $18.75 for a weekend of parking (NICE!), and skipped town. Stopped for a visit to the Rose Garden on my way out. Beautiful garden, but I loved the view of downtown Portland, with Mount Hood in the distance. A nice cap to a fantastic weekend.
Short drive over to my Aunt Kathy's place in Hillsboro, under 20 miles. So good to see Auntie... it's been way too many years since our last visit. We chatted for hours, and she cooked up a great dinner, complete with a new local beer I'd yet to try... another Oregon winner. Crashed out early, as tomorrow would be a long day of driving.
DAY 22 - "Humboldt, California"
Monday morning... the start of my 4th and final week on this trip throughout the West. Many miles today, so I zipped down the 5, and caught the coast and California, just beyond Crescent City. Not much to look at until I slid into the Redwoods. Beautiful cruise through the old growth forest. Huge trees, in some places looking as if they sprouted directly from the road itself.
Hooked up with the 101, and followed the coast south. Slow going, with twists and turns you usually find only in a racing video game. This was the only spot on the entire trip where I wished I had my car instead of the truck. That Chrysler would have devoured the curves.
Pretty foggy along the coast, which looked surreal as I'd slide up the mountains for a bit, momentarily away from the ocean and into the Redwoods. The mist looked like white smoke, curling over the hills and across the road, messing with my visibility. Kept my eyes on the road, my hands upon the wheel. Too much sight-seeing, and you'd find yourself tumbling, which was simply unacceptable!
After 400 miles I found Humboldt State Park, and turned off into an old growth forest of Redwoods called the "Avenue of the Giants". I was pretty beat, so the first campground, Burlington, looked fine by me. And jackpot: it wasn't full, so I snagged a spot and setup shop. Took a hike into the forest, cooked up some dinner, and called it a night.
DAY 23 - "Pescadero, California"
Another early morning, but not as many miles ahead of me today. Left Humboldt, and just past Leggitt, I joined up with the infamous 1 Freeway, or "Shoreline Drive". More video-game type driving, but man was the ocean beautiful. Huge rocks sticking up out of the waves... something you don't see a lot of in Southern California. The weather couldn't figure out what it wanted to do... I'd go from mist to sunshine and back again... guess it's common on the coast.
Stopped for lunch in a little fishing village called Tomales, near Bodega Bay. Picked up a bottle of wine at the market, and the shopkeeper recommended the deli across the street. Great food... lamb smoked in-house and homemade potato salad. Couldn't go wrong.
Stuffed, I pushed on, and finally came up against San Francisco. It had been a few years since I last visited, but so good to see the city once again. It was a bit foggy, but could still clearly make out Alcatraz, great views of downtown, and all topped off with a drive across the Golden Gate Bridge. Really need to get back here some day when I can hang for a week or two. One of the best cities you'll visit.
Drove through Pacifica, and followed the 1 South the rest of the way to my cousin Kelly's place in Pescadero. She and her husband, Web, have a great spot up in the hills, with killer views of the ocean (when it's not foggy). Chatted with Kelly and her daughter, Shay, and met their horse Dolan. After dinner, Web joined us for a hike along their property. Even got a "Bees 101" class, checking out a hive Web created. Just wild... amazing setup that helps the environment (we're running out of bees), AND you get regular collections of honey once it's up and running. Hung out back at the stables a bit, and called it a night.
DAY 24 - "Pescadero"
I stayed in town all day... messed around on the blog a bit, and took a hike around the area with Kelly and her dog. Beautiful, sprawling acreage, weaving through forest and fields, with plenty of viewpoints to gawk at the Pacific. I headed in to the little downtown area, hitting up the gas station for (I kid you not) award-winning tacos. Wandered around the one-horse-town, with a stop in old Saint Anthony's Cemetery.
Before dinner, Kelly recommended "No-Name Beach", just a few minutes south on the 1 Freeway. Glad I stopped by... incredible little hard-to-find beach that I had all to myself. Hung out for an hour or so, soaking up the sun and exploring the rock formations and tide pools.
Met up with Web at Pescadero's famous old bar, Duarte's, for some smoked salmon. Food was so-so, although Web picked one of the winners: a green chile soup. Headed back up the mountain to the house, and chatted with Kelly before bed.
DAY 25 - "Manhattan Beach, California"
Slept in a bit, and played a little guitar for Shay and Kelly before I hit the road. Fueled up in downtown Pescadero, and joined up with the 1, following the coast south. Beautiful scenery through Big Sur, with no signs I could see of the huge wildfires that ravaged the area just a few weeks prior.
Around lunch time, I stopped in the village of San Simeon, and took a shuttle up to Hearst Castle. I signed on for the two hour tour of the sprawling estate, formerly used as a summer home by newspaper tycoon, William Randolph Hearst. Amazing architecture, and I got into the history along the tour. So much American excess... he spared no expense even through the castle was never finished (it's a state park today). Walked through the bungalows near the huge Neptune pool, the main hall with centuries-old tapestries and church seats, under ceilings hand-crafted and purchased overseas. Stopped a bit in the formal dining room, where Hearst entertained the likes of Churchill and Chaplin, and finished the tour in his private movie theater and indoor swimming pool. It was all so immense, yet he rarely hosted more than 8 or 9 guests at a time.
After the castle, I was feeling pretty good, so with the help of some coffee, I skipped camping the night and made the final, 200 mile push for Los Angeles. I was worried about LA traffic close to rush hour, but it was VERY smooth sailing. Piece of cake, really. I cruised into Santa Monica around 9 and met up with some friends at a swank and happening sushi bar, Teng-U. Great food, but the highlight had to be our brush with fame... child star Anthony Michael Hall was sitting at the bar, right in front of us.
Hung out for a few hours, and rode back to Chris Combs and Hilary Rosen's pad in Manhattan Beach. Pretty much done, I crawled into bed. I made it!!! My last stop before home...
DAY 26 - "Manhattan Beach"
Woke up early this Friday morning, and saw Chris and Hilary off to work. Messed around on the computer and walked down to the North End Cafe for some fantastic breakfast burritos. Nice and simple... eggs, avocados, and killer salsa. Relaxed all morning, glad to be taking a couple days off from the freeway and out of the car. A little mist (marine layer) over the ocean next door, but still a beautiful day. Met up with Hilary for lunch and hit the beach. Need to get my tan on before I head to the East Coast next week.
Chris got off work early, and we had some solid mojito's before a feast of grilled mahi mahi. Hilary found some really fresh seafood at a local fish market and cooked up a fantastic dinner. Stuffed, but we managed to put on some collared shirts and head up the street to a new martini bar. A little too fancy for laid-back Manhattan Beach, but we had a good time. Met up with some friends, and we all retired to Combs' and Hilary's for drinks and Guitar Hero. ( I killed on "Slow Ride") Another late, late night.
DAY 27 - "Manhattan Beach"
Hilary headed to Santa Barbara and Combs had a surgery, so I grabbed some coffee at The North End, killing some time with a few episodes of "The Soup". Chris returned, and a few friends stopped by for a drink. We all grabbed some bikes and cruised down the boardwalk to Hermosa. Such a nice ride, with the ocean on the right, and multi-million dollar "cabins" on the left. Our trail ended, at the new favorite dive bar: the HBYC (Hermosa Beach Yacht Club). Great time, tossing back a few schooners before biking back to Manhattan.
Quickly cleaned up, and we were off to Korea Town for dinner. Can't say I've ever had traditional Korean bbq, but it was excellent. So many little dishes, with a "cook your own meat" setup built into the table. Good food, and I, being the only non-doctor in attendance, sat back and enjoyed the shop-talk... like what's the music of choice when performing spine surgery? Sheryl Crow or Coldplay?
Headed back to Chris' place and fell asleep watching "Rambo". (That's the 2nd time I've fallen asleep watching "Rambo"... the third time WILL be the charm!)
DAY 28 - "Tempe, Arizona. Home."
Sunday, July 27. The last day. Pretty uneventful... I slept in, Combs and I grabbed some breakfast in El Segundo, and I hit the road for one last drive. The trip from LA to Phoenix has never been a favorite of mine, but the traffic was easy and I knocked it down in exactly 6 hours. And just like that, I rolled into my garage in Tempe, and put Beefy to bed. That truck was AMAZING... over 4500 miles, with a wide range of elevation (10 feet to 10,000), and not one problem.
And here I am, Tuesday morning, with one more day of Arizona down time, before I hop on a plane to Boston. I'm meeting up with a crew in Maine next week, followed by a stop to see friends and family in Michigan. Thanks again for following me along on this fantastic journey.... hope this finds you well, and that I'll see you soon!
Dave
PART 5 - Idaho, Mt. Rainier, Kalaloch, Portland
DAY 16 - "Coeur d'Alene"
Idaho! A new day in a new state. After leaving Montana, I originally had planned on cutting through this sliver of my trek, and staying on Mount Rainier for two nights. But Coeur d'Alene looked like a cool little lake town, so I decided against the extra 300 miles and bunked here for the night. Those 500 mile days are kind of brutal.
Hit up the visitor center on the main drag, Sherman Blvd. They recommended a recently restored, 50's like place called the Flamingo. It was walking distance to everything, so naturally it was right up my alley. Reserved a room, and walked around. Downtown runs right up against the lake, similar in size and shape to Estes Park in Colorado. Plenty of shaded side streets and old buildings to give it a hefty dose of character.
Attempted to upload some photos at the library, to no avail. I had been sitting on a finished Part 4 ("Glacier") for a few days, and just needed to get the pictures online. Story of my life. Stopped for some coffee after a forgettable lunch, and checked out the lake. Huge public beach, and real pedestrian friendly. Found a cool old neighborhood with lush landscaping right along the shores. Great houses... felt like something straight out of the midwest.
Hiked to the pier, just in time to watch a sail-plane take flight. Thought he was going to obliterate a lone jetski that was caught in his path, but he got up off the waves just in time. And here I sit, waiting on a photo shop to transfer my pics to CD, enjoying a beer in an open-air bar called the Ironhorse. Plus I think I nailed down a place for live jazz later.
Had a light dinner back in the hotel room, and headed back outside. But I bored rather quickly with the nightlift, and then with Coeur D'Alene itself. Guess not much happens on a Tuesday night. Checked out the wine cellar I had scoped out earlier for live music, but instead of jazz, it was one guy with a guitar. He had some solid picking ability, but a voice that seemed to scare everybody away. Cool venue, but DEAD. I escaped back to the hotel and watched the All Star Game before bed.
DAY 17 - "Mount Rainier, Washington"
Skipped town early, even though I only had 300 miles ahead of me. Not much to look at during the first stretch of Washington. Then I crossed the Columbia River... HUGE! By far the widest river I've crossed this entire trip. And beyond the river, I finally had my first glimpse of Mt. Rainier.
Towering, snow-capped Rainier. Impressive, standing about 14,400 feet above sea level, and I was still about 100 miles away. What's funny is that would be the last I'd see of it until it smacked me in the face, 70 miles down the road.
And once I got onto the 12 West for those last few miles, it turned beautiful. It was more of the "mountain meets forest meets river" kind of scenery that just clears my head. I rolled the window down, breathed in that pine / fir tree air, and let Beefy do all the work.
Finally, after another corner, Mt. Rainier was in front of me, filling up the sky. Pulled off on the side of the road and took it all in. So good to be back in the brush again.
I arrived at my campground on the Ohanapecosh River about noon. Found my campsite and had some lunch, loving this place immediately. I'm surrounded by huge old trees, towering above. Setup the tent, and grabbed a quick nap in perfect temperatures.
Spent the rest of the afternoon following the river trail, to Silver Falls and the "Grove of Patriarchs". The Grove was absolutely majestic. I thought the trees back at the campground were tall. Some of these, mostly Douglas Fir and Cedar, stood 200 feet tall, and were over 1000 years old. The Grove was set on an island, and after crossing the bridge, I took the long, winding path between the giants, craning my neck.
Hiked back, and here I am as the sun starts to set, listening to a new Marian McPartland track on the satellite jazz station. Thinking about dinner. Man I love it out here... I shouldn't have any trouble falling asleep. Tomorrow it's the rest of Rainier, and 200 miles to Olympic National Park, and the Pacific.
DAY 18 - "Kalaloch, Washington"
Slept in a bit, and headed out of the Ohanapecosh Campground after my standard camping breakfast of hardboiled eggs, dehydrated bananas, and coffee brewed up in my Jet Boil (one of the best inventions EVER).
Entered the park at the Stevens Creek entrance, and followed the road to Paradise. Seemed like around every other corner, Mt. Rainier would blast onto the scene, larger than life as I got closer and closer. Stopped off at the Paradise Visitor Center, located on the base of the mountain, where climbers were gearing up for an ascent to the summit. Supposedly, the conditions get so harsh, that people train for Everest here.
Really, really enjoyed Rainier. Left the park, and left the sunshine. I hit some fog just south of Tacoma, and while it brightened in a few areas, the rest of the way to the coast turned dark and gloomy.
And I made it! The Pacific Ocean finally came into view about 30 miles south of Kalaloch. Beautiful road into Olympic National Park... rain forests sliding up to the roadway, with random views of the ocean through the trees.
Pulled into Kalaloch, and before I moved into my room at the lodge on the coast, I sat down for some fresh seafood. Solid clam chowder, followed by decent fish n' chips, all washed down with a pint of my fave: Mirror Pond. The service was less than stellar, however... people working up here in the middle of nowhere seemed pretty miserable.
The more I explored the Lodge, the more I realized that I probably would have been just as happy (and 270 bucks richer) staying at the campground next door. Let's just say the Kalaloch Lodge is quaint. And I've had worse nights... I hung out in my cabin, reading before a fine night's sleep.
DAY 19 - "Portland, Oregon"
At first light I was more than ready to bail on Kalaloch. It was easy driving down to Portland, with just a bit of backed up traffic approaching downtown. And then, across the river, and I had arrived!
I've always flown into Portland, so my first time driving into the city was eye-opening, to say the least. The sun popped out for the first time after 24 hours of gloomy gray soup, just as the buildings welcomed me in. Dumped the truck in a parking garage, and hiked around town a bit. Met up with my good buddy from Michigan, Tom Vesbit, at The Red Star, a bar we hit up frequently over New Years 2007. Best bloody mary's in town.
Hung out a bit, and Tom was off for wedding duties. He and his wife, Jen, just happened to be in Portland for a friend's wedding the SAME weekend I was rambling through. Amy, and her hubby-to-be Shawn, promptly invited me when they heard the news. Too, damn, COOL!!! Love it when a plan comes together.
Worked on the blog and showered back at the Hotel Paramount, and headed out to sushi down the block. It was hard to choose which one, as there were at least two Japanese restaurants within sight of the hotel. Decent fish, and now I'm waiting on the wedding party to finish up with the rehersal. Found a great spot in Pioneer Square, where they've got a Sand Castle competition. Listening to a pretty solid bluegrass band cover Green Day, of all things, and enjoying some more perfect temperatures. Ahh, Portland.
Hopped on a street car for a few blocks, and met up with the wedding party at a swank little bar / restaurant. So great seeing both Vesbits, Amy and Shawn, and their friends. Had a few drinks, and headed back to the Paramount for bed.
DAY 20 - "Portland"
Slept in a bit, and took a street car uptown a bit with Tom, and to a cool little neighborhood of Portland. Walked up to Forest Park, and explored a great hiking trail through what I thought were the jungles of Portland. Nice walk through thick vegetation, past a moss-covered old house which sat along the path. Such a great city... you hop on a free street car, take it 10 minutes from the city core, and have a great forest walk waiting for exploration.
After a few miles, we returned to the hood next door and grabbed some blunch (brunch) at a great little house / breakfast joint. Fantastic omelets, great service, and a solid cup of coffee. On the way back downtown, we hit up a cool CD shop, and of course, Powells Books. No trip to P-Town can go without a visit to Powells. It's one of those bookstores where it's way too easy to lose yourself; the building itself takes up an entire city block. Browsed a bit, and it was back to the hotel to clean up. Wedding time!
Such a fun night, and I'm still in awe (and so thankful) that I was able to be a part of it. The ceremony and reception were both held a few blocks away, at the Portland Art Museum. Very impressive. Beautiful ceremony for Shawn and Amy, with Jen Vesbit as maid-of-honor and Tom picking up the guitar and absolutely KILLING with a version of Ben Harper's "Forever".
After the ceremony, we headed upstairs for the reception, in what could only be described as the ultimate ball room. HUGE. Just unbelievable... the whole thing. Amazing food and drink from start to finish, and the DJ kept us dancing all night long. Jen hit a homerun with her toast... just nailed it. (It's funny how Tom and Jen both mentioned how nervous they were before the wedding... singing the song and making the toast, and they both were total pro's).
Finally, things wound down around midnight, but many of us headed down Park Avenue for one last drink at a bar we like called the South Park. Great time... such a fun crew. About 2 am, we stumbled back to the hotel and crashed hard. Another great weekend in Portland... If you can't tell I'm a BIG fan. And a serious congrats to Amy and Shawn!
Well folks, that's all for Part 5. Stay tuned for the conclusion, as I finish my trip through California, down along the Pacific Coast Highway. Then it's a left turn in Manhattan Beach, and I take that last long freeway HOME!
PART 4 - Glacier National Park, Montana
DAY 13 - "Glacier"
Woke up early, after a night of fantastic sushi in downtown Whitefish. I actually found myself eager to step away from one paradise and into another, Glacier National Park. Headed just 25 miles east (passing a branch of First American Title on the way!) and entered the park.
Quickly merged onto the "Going to the Sun" Road, and followed that through most of the park. Stopped a few miles into the drive, and hiked about 5 miles to Avalanche Lake. I've graduated from black bear to grizzly, so I'm lucky to have a great cousin who supplied me with bear bells and bear spray... Thanks Chris!!!
Beautiful hike through the forest... finding clear blue streams and waterfalls along the way. Came out of the trees towards the end, and was rewarded with Avalanche Lake. The lake was beautiful, but I couldn't keep my eyes off the cliff on the far side, with huge waterfalls cascading down the rocks. At least three of them. Hung out a bit, stunned, before turning back.
More "Going to the Sun". The road winds up over narrow mountain passes, past countless waterfalls, and of course, past glaciers. Halfway into the 53 mile drive, I stopped at the summit, Logan's Pass. Amazing visitor center up there, that looked as if it was being devoured by a huge, sliding glacier. Even saw my first bit of Glacier wildlife at Logan, a large white mountain goat, resting by the side of the road.
The ranger at the Logan Pass visitor center recommended I head to the end and check out the east side of the park, and Many Glacier. She sold me on it, and glad she did. Dropping down from the summit, I slid past St. Mary's Lake, and had to hop out to take it all in. St. Mary's highlight is definitely Goose Island, a tiny stand of trees in the middle of the huge, blue lake.
Popped out of the park on the east side, and jumped back in, a little further north, on my way to Many Glacier. Definitely less populated than the west end of Glacier National Park, and drove over some pretty rough roads to get there. But at the end, I was amazed. Another lake, tucked in under some impressive mountains, and all tied together with an incredible old lodge. Just didn't expect to see that at the end of my journey. Headed into the hotel to explore, snatching up some postcards and a bumper sticker for the truck, and opted for a pint of Heaven's Heffe at the bar.
Rather wished I had known about this place in advance. I would have totally reserved a room. It's right on the lake, and seeing people kyack and canoe out there made me just a bit jealous. But I had a different paradise already waiting for me over the mountains, so I made my way back along "Going to the Sun" road. Saw a few more mountain goats, and just inhaled Montana. Windows down.... perfect air, pure bliss. "Montana Haze".
Made it back to the house in Whitefish just before 9 (which was still plenty bright enough), and picked up some killer bbq from Piggyback's for dinner before bed.
DAY 14 - "Whitefish"
After a full day exploring Glacier, I relaxed at my cousin's place on the lake. I kyacked for an hour or so after breakfast, and met up with Shellan and Rob. They swung by my dock and picked me up on their ski-boat, which survived the crazy storm from the other night. We then spent much of the afternoon bouncing across the waves of Whitefish Lake. Perfect, warm temps, both air and sea.
The highlight was learning how to wake surf. Basically, you ride a surf board just behind the boat, and if you do it right, you can drop the tow rope and surf in the wake indefinitely. After a few tries, I got the gist, and was smiling like a little kid up there on that board.
Spent the rest of the day playing guitar on the deck, catching up on emails, and soaking up the sun. Grabbed some dinner at a spot down the road, and took a drive up Big Mountain, behind Chris' house. Cool drive... all winter ski runs and snow lodges up there.
Early to bed tonight, as I'll make another Glacier excursion tomorrow morning, and enjoy my last full day in Paradise, Montana.
DAY 15 - "The Tip of Glacier / Final Day in Whitefish"
Sitting on the shores of Kintla Lake, just 5 miles south of the Canadian border, and the apex of Glacier National Park. Decided to take the long dirt road on the back side of the park today, traveling north past Polebridge. Kintla Lake and campground are WAY off Glacier's beaten path. Such a perfect, rustic campground, on a small, glacier-blue lake. No boats with motors allowed, gas or electric, so it would be ideal for a canoe. In fact, here comes one right now.
Got the truck nice n' dusty on the drive back, and stopped at the saloon in Polebridge for lunch. I quickly discovered that food service didn't start until 4 pm. A shame, because the menu looked fantastic... elk, bison, etc. Too nice outside to get back in the truck, I read for a bit, out on the saloon's front porch. Sipped a cold beer, keeping company with an old black dog who was passed out next to me.
Stopped for groceries before heading back to the cabin, and hung out on the beach one last time while I did some laundry. Another perfect day in Whitefish, and it will be no easy task to leave tomorrow. But the road is calling for me to head west. Mount Rainier, Olympic National Park, and a wedding in downtown Portland all await in the next week.
That's all for now, everybody. This trip has just been incredible, and I'm happy to have y'all along for the ride!
Woke up early, after a night of fantastic sushi in downtown Whitefish. I actually found myself eager to step away from one paradise and into another, Glacier National Park. Headed just 25 miles east (passing a branch of First American Title on the way!) and entered the park.
Quickly merged onto the "Going to the Sun" Road, and followed that through most of the park. Stopped a few miles into the drive, and hiked about 5 miles to Avalanche Lake. I've graduated from black bear to grizzly, so I'm lucky to have a great cousin who supplied me with bear bells and bear spray... Thanks Chris!!!
Beautiful hike through the forest... finding clear blue streams and waterfalls along the way. Came out of the trees towards the end, and was rewarded with Avalanche Lake. The lake was beautiful, but I couldn't keep my eyes off the cliff on the far side, with huge waterfalls cascading down the rocks. At least three of them. Hung out a bit, stunned, before turning back.
More "Going to the Sun". The road winds up over narrow mountain passes, past countless waterfalls, and of course, past glaciers. Halfway into the 53 mile drive, I stopped at the summit, Logan's Pass. Amazing visitor center up there, that looked as if it was being devoured by a huge, sliding glacier. Even saw my first bit of Glacier wildlife at Logan, a large white mountain goat, resting by the side of the road.
The ranger at the Logan Pass visitor center recommended I head to the end and check out the east side of the park, and Many Glacier. She sold me on it, and glad she did. Dropping down from the summit, I slid past St. Mary's Lake, and had to hop out to take it all in. St. Mary's highlight is definitely Goose Island, a tiny stand of trees in the middle of the huge, blue lake.
Popped out of the park on the east side, and jumped back in, a little further north, on my way to Many Glacier. Definitely less populated than the west end of Glacier National Park, and drove over some pretty rough roads to get there. But at the end, I was amazed. Another lake, tucked in under some impressive mountains, and all tied together with an incredible old lodge. Just didn't expect to see that at the end of my journey. Headed into the hotel to explore, snatching up some postcards and a bumper sticker for the truck, and opted for a pint of Heaven's Heffe at the bar.
Rather wished I had known about this place in advance. I would have totally reserved a room. It's right on the lake, and seeing people kyack and canoe out there made me just a bit jealous. But I had a different paradise already waiting for me over the mountains, so I made my way back along "Going to the Sun" road. Saw a few more mountain goats, and just inhaled Montana. Windows down.... perfect air, pure bliss. "Montana Haze".
Made it back to the house in Whitefish just before 9 (which was still plenty bright enough), and picked up some killer bbq from Piggyback's for dinner before bed.
DAY 14 - "Whitefish"
After a full day exploring Glacier, I relaxed at my cousin's place on the lake. I kyacked for an hour or so after breakfast, and met up with Shellan and Rob. They swung by my dock and picked me up on their ski-boat, which survived the crazy storm from the other night. We then spent much of the afternoon bouncing across the waves of Whitefish Lake. Perfect, warm temps, both air and sea.
The highlight was learning how to wake surf. Basically, you ride a surf board just behind the boat, and if you do it right, you can drop the tow rope and surf in the wake indefinitely. After a few tries, I got the gist, and was smiling like a little kid up there on that board.
Spent the rest of the day playing guitar on the deck, catching up on emails, and soaking up the sun. Grabbed some dinner at a spot down the road, and took a drive up Big Mountain, behind Chris' house. Cool drive... all winter ski runs and snow lodges up there.
Early to bed tonight, as I'll make another Glacier excursion tomorrow morning, and enjoy my last full day in Paradise, Montana.
DAY 15 - "The Tip of Glacier / Final Day in Whitefish"
Sitting on the shores of Kintla Lake, just 5 miles south of the Canadian border, and the apex of Glacier National Park. Decided to take the long dirt road on the back side of the park today, traveling north past Polebridge. Kintla Lake and campground are WAY off Glacier's beaten path. Such a perfect, rustic campground, on a small, glacier-blue lake. No boats with motors allowed, gas or electric, so it would be ideal for a canoe. In fact, here comes one right now.
Got the truck nice n' dusty on the drive back, and stopped at the saloon in Polebridge for lunch. I quickly discovered that food service didn't start until 4 pm. A shame, because the menu looked fantastic... elk, bison, etc. Too nice outside to get back in the truck, I read for a bit, out on the saloon's front porch. Sipped a cold beer, keeping company with an old black dog who was passed out next to me.
Stopped for groceries before heading back to the cabin, and hung out on the beach one last time while I did some laundry. Another perfect day in Whitefish, and it will be no easy task to leave tomorrow. But the road is calling for me to head west. Mount Rainier, Olympic National Park, and a wedding in downtown Portland all await in the next week.
That's all for now, everybody. This trip has just been incredible, and I'm happy to have y'all along for the ride!
PART 3 - Conifer, Rocky Mountain, The Grand Tetons, Whitefish
DAY 9 - "Rocky Mountain National Park, Colorado"
Sitting in Hollowell Park, deep within Rocky Mountain when I wrote this section. Just finished dinner and the sun doesn't have a whole lot left to give. Hollowell is such a nice stop off of Bear Lake Road. Snow-covered peaks just over foothills of dark green forests. Probably about time to head back to the campground, but just a few more seconds.
Had a great day yesterday, just hanging around at the house in Conifer, Colorado. I said it over and over, but it was SO nice to recharge my batteries after a week on the road. Ed cooked up a feast for dinner... perfect steaks, ceasar salad, potatoes, and fresh cherries for dessert. Spent another night chatting, attacking a New York Times crossword, and I rolled into bed about 10.
Woke up early on my last day in Conifer, and once again did the 3 mile hike to the mailbox. This time we had more company, as the neighbors joined up. Packed the truck, said my farewell, and took to the road. Ed and Nancy spoiled me... and now I feel refreshed, ready for my next leg of this Western journey.
On the way to Boulder, I caught a brief glimpse of Denver's skyline, but before I could blink it was gone. Fine by me. I really don't want to mess with any big cities until I get to Portland.
Stopped in Boulder for lunch at a place called "The Kitchen". Cool college town, with fantastic trees throughout the Pearl Street Mall. Pearl was the "Main Street" of Boulder, with tons of cool shops and restaurants. My lunch was decent (think I may have ordered the wrong thing), but I fell in love with Boulder Books, a cool multi-level bookstore right on the mall, that reminded of Powell's in Portland. I walked a ways up the Pearl, where it turned into a slick little residential hood. Couldn't get over the vegetation, where it almost swallowed the sidewalk. Hit up the Whole Foods for groceries on my way out of town, just as the weather started to get nasty. Big dark storm clouds coming down off Boulder's mountains.
Another easy day of driving, I was only about 30 miles away from Rocky Mountain National Park. Passed through a neat looking town called Estes Park, which bumped up against the entrance to Rocky Mountain NP. Found Moraine Campground, where I made a reservation the day before. Glad I did, as it didn't take long to fill. After scoping out the camp, I went driving, deep into the park. Stopped off in a huge valley, checking out a stream that gurgled past a group of horseback riders.
Rocky Mountain National Park is IMMENSE. No way I could even scratch the surface in one day, but I still jumped in head first. Hiked 4 miles of the Fern Lake Trail, which followed the river the entire way. So lush down there... felt like an endless spring, with the vegetation growing straight out of the rocks. After walking about 10 miles for the day, my legs were about done, so I drove deeper into the huge park along Bear Lake Road. Followed it to the end, 9500 feet up, and discovered an absolute gem: Bear Lake.
As the sun set over the mountains, Bear Lake actually became easier to see (and to photograph). I took the path around its shoreline, mesmerized. Stumbled back to the car, in that same type of haze / bliss I was under back in Mesa Verde. "Colorado Haze", as I like to call it. After stopping for dinner in wide open Hollowell Park, I headed back to camp and slept in the truck.
DAY 10 - "The Grand Tetons, Wyoming"
Woke up with the dawn, after a surprisingly good night's sleep in the back of the pickup. It turned quite cold, so sleeping up off the ground was probably a better deal than the tent. Besides, it was much easier to pack up and skip town.
Was on the road before 8, and bid adieu to Rocky Mountain National Park. Definitely need to get back here someday... with a kyack. So many lakes in the area, you could literally spend weeks trying every one.
Long day driving, that started out amazing as I took the 34 East to Loveland. The road followed the river, both cutting through mountains as we wound on down. Great little cabins along the way, and I fell more and more in love with Colorado.
Not so in love with the Colorado police, however, as I learned just a few miles South of the Wyoming border. I was just saying to Ed and Nancy, how there was NO way I'd get a ticket on this trip in my lumbering pickup. Jinx! Got pulled over for driving 76 in a 65... even though my cruise control was firmly set at 5 miles over the speed limit (as it had been for most of these 1st 1000 miles). The officer kindly disagreed, wrote me the citation, and I was back on the road in less than 15 minutes. Nifty little assembly line they've got.
Oh Well... no points on the AZ license, and not a horrible 77 dollar fee. (Just another stop for gas). I could fight it in a Fort Collins court room in October, but that's not very convenient, or economically prudent. Not really the way I wanted to start my trek through the barren wasteland that was Wyoming, so I stewed. Just a bit.
HUNDREDS of miles of flat, open space. Despite plenty of books on CD and podcasts, I got real punchy at about mile 300. Luckily, no rain, but I said more than a few times: "ENOUGH with Wyoming".
And finally, about mile 400, Wyoming got unbelievably beautiful. The snow-capped mountains came out of nowhere, filling up the horizon, telling me that Jackson and the Tetons were close.
Rivers, fields of wildflowers, and towering mountains. Wyoming saved all its scenery for the Northwest corner of the state. Crossed the Hoback and Snake Rivers a number of times as I made my final turn towards Jackson. Passed through town, and opted for the first of the Teton Campgrounds, Gros Ventre. Glad I did, as my 2nd choice, Colter Bay, was 30 miles further, and all full. Not to mention, the one I picked was beautiful. The "Tent Campers" have their own section, so no noisy generators in ear shot to power the trailers. Played some guitar, loving the breeze and sunlight filtering through the trees and tall grass.
The campground lies parallel to the Gros Ventre River, so after dinner I hiked down to its banks. Great spot, watching the wide river move. Seems like this is the time of year for swift-moving rapids. Every river, creek, and stream I've come up against on this road trip has been in a major hurry.
Before the light completely faded, I took a drive, following the Gros Ventre Road and getting a better vantage point of the Tetons. And a mile or so after I veered off the major street, I came upon a buffalo! So cool, seeing this magnificent, HUGE beast in the wild. Quietly pulled the truck up to the side of the road, rolled down the window, and took a few photos. Definitely kept the engine running though, just in case the buffalo got any funny ideas. Looked like it could take a door off with those horns.
And here I am, back at my campsite, finishing up my journal for today, listening to some Coltrane on the satellite radio. I feel just amazing. Perfect temps, and the truck is ready for an early departure tomorrow. Another long drive in the works, about 500 miles, but I'll pass through the heart of the Tetons, Yellowstone, and finally Montana.
DAY 11 - "Whitefish, Montana"
Packed up after another solid night sleeping in the truck. Big drive to Montana ahead of me, I was on the road by 7. Definitely another chilly morning, and I switched on the truck's heater for the first time in God knows how long. Worked like a charm. Took the road deep through the Tetons National Park, slowly winding my way north. Bumped right up against the jagged mountain range, which resembled a long line of sharp, crooked teeth. Found a small, one way road off the beaten path that led me to Jenny Lake. Magnificent.
Very few people at the lake and out on the roads at this early hour. So glad I didn't attempt this beautiful drive at the end of last night's 480 mile trip. I would have been way too punchy to enjoy it as much. But I felt great this morning, even with a huge drive ahead of me. Finally connected the Sirius Satellite Radio to my truck's stereo, and it kept me sane for another 400+ mile day.
Grabbed a shower at the Colter Bay campground, and walked out feeling like a million bucks. It had been a couple days. The road left the Tetons and entered Yellowstone, where I finally found some traffic. Yellowstone was nice and crowded during this peak summer season, and add to that a recently burned out forest, and I almost immediately preferred the Tetons.
Stopped to watch Old Faithful blow up, because I guess you have to? Just didn't realize I had to sit (with hundreds of others) for an hour waiting for it. But finally the geyser went off, we all ooh'ed and ahh'ed, and I made a break for it after hitting the Old Faithful Lodge for a snack. Back on the road, I checked out some beautiful pools of bubbling hot water (so many parts of the park were simmering and steaming), and I headed out.
Long drive through Montana after finishing Yellowstone, but the satellite radio did wonders to keep my spirits up. Just south of my cousin Chris' place in Whitefish, I drove along the banks of Flathead Lake. Very impressive. Reminded me of Lake Tahoe, with it's blue waters and forested mountains dotting the perimeter.
450 miles in, and time to get punchy again. I was cruising along just fine, but ran into heavy construction traffic right near the end. Bit my lip and slowed down, and finally met my cousin at her friends' house, right on the shores of Whitefish Lake.
So good to see Chris... it had been about 5 years, and the two kids she had with her, Dane and Ava (Nicole was at summer camp) were older and super cool. Ava latched onto me, literally, almost as soon as I arrived. Just a great night, hanging out with everybody. Chris' friend, Shellan, cooked up a feast, and a huge storm rolled in off the lake just as we sat down to eat.
The power went out, and we ate by candlelight... couldn't have scripted it better. The wind and rain were knocking the boats around outside, and they said in the 10 years of living on Whitefish Lake, they'd never seen it so bad. Rob, Shellan's husband, was worried about losing the ski boat, as it was tossed against the dock, but admitted there wasn't much he could do.
After dinner and a couple glasses of wine, I played guitar for the kids and adults, and headed back to Chris' place to crash.
DAY 12 - "Whitefish"
What a great place. Feels like I'm in a dream. Woke up in the huge, comfortable bed in the guest bedroom after some amazing, uninterrupted sleep. I drove Chris and the kids to the airport in neighboring Kalispell, where they were hopping on a plane to Portland. Said our goodbyes.. it was so good seeing them, if only for a day.
That meant I had her house, which was also right on the lake, all to myself. I headed back, stopping along the way for some java at Cowgirl Coffee, one of the many places Chris recommended I check out. After coffee, I took one of the kyacks out for a spin on the lake. Didn't get more than 3 docks down, where I happened upon one of the victims of last night's storm... a practically brand new ski-boat, sunk. Pretty wild, rowing past, to see all that cash sitting on the bottom of the lake. That's what insurance is for, right?
Cruised back, and hit up the country club across the street for a massage, and here I am, back at the house, trying to get tan on the back patio. Stunning day outside... the lake is calm, and they're raising the sunken ski-boat next door. Really need to hit up Glacier National Park tomorrow, which is just a few miles east of Whitefish. But it will be tough to leave this spot, I can't lie. How do you walk away from heaven?
Sitting in Hollowell Park, deep within Rocky Mountain when I wrote this section. Just finished dinner and the sun doesn't have a whole lot left to give. Hollowell is such a nice stop off of Bear Lake Road. Snow-covered peaks just over foothills of dark green forests. Probably about time to head back to the campground, but just a few more seconds.
Had a great day yesterday, just hanging around at the house in Conifer, Colorado. I said it over and over, but it was SO nice to recharge my batteries after a week on the road. Ed cooked up a feast for dinner... perfect steaks, ceasar salad, potatoes, and fresh cherries for dessert. Spent another night chatting, attacking a New York Times crossword, and I rolled into bed about 10.
Woke up early on my last day in Conifer, and once again did the 3 mile hike to the mailbox. This time we had more company, as the neighbors joined up. Packed the truck, said my farewell, and took to the road. Ed and Nancy spoiled me... and now I feel refreshed, ready for my next leg of this Western journey.
On the way to Boulder, I caught a brief glimpse of Denver's skyline, but before I could blink it was gone. Fine by me. I really don't want to mess with any big cities until I get to Portland.
Stopped in Boulder for lunch at a place called "The Kitchen". Cool college town, with fantastic trees throughout the Pearl Street Mall. Pearl was the "Main Street" of Boulder, with tons of cool shops and restaurants. My lunch was decent (think I may have ordered the wrong thing), but I fell in love with Boulder Books, a cool multi-level bookstore right on the mall, that reminded of Powell's in Portland. I walked a ways up the Pearl, where it turned into a slick little residential hood. Couldn't get over the vegetation, where it almost swallowed the sidewalk. Hit up the Whole Foods for groceries on my way out of town, just as the weather started to get nasty. Big dark storm clouds coming down off Boulder's mountains.
Another easy day of driving, I was only about 30 miles away from Rocky Mountain National Park. Passed through a neat looking town called Estes Park, which bumped up against the entrance to Rocky Mountain NP. Found Moraine Campground, where I made a reservation the day before. Glad I did, as it didn't take long to fill. After scoping out the camp, I went driving, deep into the park. Stopped off in a huge valley, checking out a stream that gurgled past a group of horseback riders.
Rocky Mountain National Park is IMMENSE. No way I could even scratch the surface in one day, but I still jumped in head first. Hiked 4 miles of the Fern Lake Trail, which followed the river the entire way. So lush down there... felt like an endless spring, with the vegetation growing straight out of the rocks. After walking about 10 miles for the day, my legs were about done, so I drove deeper into the huge park along Bear Lake Road. Followed it to the end, 9500 feet up, and discovered an absolute gem: Bear Lake.
As the sun set over the mountains, Bear Lake actually became easier to see (and to photograph). I took the path around its shoreline, mesmerized. Stumbled back to the car, in that same type of haze / bliss I was under back in Mesa Verde. "Colorado Haze", as I like to call it. After stopping for dinner in wide open Hollowell Park, I headed back to camp and slept in the truck.
DAY 10 - "The Grand Tetons, Wyoming"
Woke up with the dawn, after a surprisingly good night's sleep in the back of the pickup. It turned quite cold, so sleeping up off the ground was probably a better deal than the tent. Besides, it was much easier to pack up and skip town.
Was on the road before 8, and bid adieu to Rocky Mountain National Park. Definitely need to get back here someday... with a kyack. So many lakes in the area, you could literally spend weeks trying every one.
Long day driving, that started out amazing as I took the 34 East to Loveland. The road followed the river, both cutting through mountains as we wound on down. Great little cabins along the way, and I fell more and more in love with Colorado.
Not so in love with the Colorado police, however, as I learned just a few miles South of the Wyoming border. I was just saying to Ed and Nancy, how there was NO way I'd get a ticket on this trip in my lumbering pickup. Jinx! Got pulled over for driving 76 in a 65... even though my cruise control was firmly set at 5 miles over the speed limit (as it had been for most of these 1st 1000 miles). The officer kindly disagreed, wrote me the citation, and I was back on the road in less than 15 minutes. Nifty little assembly line they've got.
Oh Well... no points on the AZ license, and not a horrible 77 dollar fee. (Just another stop for gas). I could fight it in a Fort Collins court room in October, but that's not very convenient, or economically prudent. Not really the way I wanted to start my trek through the barren wasteland that was Wyoming, so I stewed. Just a bit.
HUNDREDS of miles of flat, open space. Despite plenty of books on CD and podcasts, I got real punchy at about mile 300. Luckily, no rain, but I said more than a few times: "ENOUGH with Wyoming".
And finally, about mile 400, Wyoming got unbelievably beautiful. The snow-capped mountains came out of nowhere, filling up the horizon, telling me that Jackson and the Tetons were close.
Rivers, fields of wildflowers, and towering mountains. Wyoming saved all its scenery for the Northwest corner of the state. Crossed the Hoback and Snake Rivers a number of times as I made my final turn towards Jackson. Passed through town, and opted for the first of the Teton Campgrounds, Gros Ventre. Glad I did, as my 2nd choice, Colter Bay, was 30 miles further, and all full. Not to mention, the one I picked was beautiful. The "Tent Campers" have their own section, so no noisy generators in ear shot to power the trailers. Played some guitar, loving the breeze and sunlight filtering through the trees and tall grass.
The campground lies parallel to the Gros Ventre River, so after dinner I hiked down to its banks. Great spot, watching the wide river move. Seems like this is the time of year for swift-moving rapids. Every river, creek, and stream I've come up against on this road trip has been in a major hurry.
Before the light completely faded, I took a drive, following the Gros Ventre Road and getting a better vantage point of the Tetons. And a mile or so after I veered off the major street, I came upon a buffalo! So cool, seeing this magnificent, HUGE beast in the wild. Quietly pulled the truck up to the side of the road, rolled down the window, and took a few photos. Definitely kept the engine running though, just in case the buffalo got any funny ideas. Looked like it could take a door off with those horns.
And here I am, back at my campsite, finishing up my journal for today, listening to some Coltrane on the satellite radio. I feel just amazing. Perfect temps, and the truck is ready for an early departure tomorrow. Another long drive in the works, about 500 miles, but I'll pass through the heart of the Tetons, Yellowstone, and finally Montana.
DAY 11 - "Whitefish, Montana"
Packed up after another solid night sleeping in the truck. Big drive to Montana ahead of me, I was on the road by 7. Definitely another chilly morning, and I switched on the truck's heater for the first time in God knows how long. Worked like a charm. Took the road deep through the Tetons National Park, slowly winding my way north. Bumped right up against the jagged mountain range, which resembled a long line of sharp, crooked teeth. Found a small, one way road off the beaten path that led me to Jenny Lake. Magnificent.
Very few people at the lake and out on the roads at this early hour. So glad I didn't attempt this beautiful drive at the end of last night's 480 mile trip. I would have been way too punchy to enjoy it as much. But I felt great this morning, even with a huge drive ahead of me. Finally connected the Sirius Satellite Radio to my truck's stereo, and it kept me sane for another 400+ mile day.
Grabbed a shower at the Colter Bay campground, and walked out feeling like a million bucks. It had been a couple days. The road left the Tetons and entered Yellowstone, where I finally found some traffic. Yellowstone was nice and crowded during this peak summer season, and add to that a recently burned out forest, and I almost immediately preferred the Tetons.
Stopped to watch Old Faithful blow up, because I guess you have to? Just didn't realize I had to sit (with hundreds of others) for an hour waiting for it. But finally the geyser went off, we all ooh'ed and ahh'ed, and I made a break for it after hitting the Old Faithful Lodge for a snack. Back on the road, I checked out some beautiful pools of bubbling hot water (so many parts of the park were simmering and steaming), and I headed out.
Long drive through Montana after finishing Yellowstone, but the satellite radio did wonders to keep my spirits up. Just south of my cousin Chris' place in Whitefish, I drove along the banks of Flathead Lake. Very impressive. Reminded me of Lake Tahoe, with it's blue waters and forested mountains dotting the perimeter.
450 miles in, and time to get punchy again. I was cruising along just fine, but ran into heavy construction traffic right near the end. Bit my lip and slowed down, and finally met my cousin at her friends' house, right on the shores of Whitefish Lake.
So good to see Chris... it had been about 5 years, and the two kids she had with her, Dane and Ava (Nicole was at summer camp) were older and super cool. Ava latched onto me, literally, almost as soon as I arrived. Just a great night, hanging out with everybody. Chris' friend, Shellan, cooked up a feast, and a huge storm rolled in off the lake just as we sat down to eat.
The power went out, and we ate by candlelight... couldn't have scripted it better. The wind and rain were knocking the boats around outside, and they said in the 10 years of living on Whitefish Lake, they'd never seen it so bad. Rob, Shellan's husband, was worried about losing the ski boat, as it was tossed against the dock, but admitted there wasn't much he could do.
After dinner and a couple glasses of wine, I played guitar for the kids and adults, and headed back to Chris' place to crash.
DAY 12 - "Whitefish"
What a great place. Feels like I'm in a dream. Woke up in the huge, comfortable bed in the guest bedroom after some amazing, uninterrupted sleep. I drove Chris and the kids to the airport in neighboring Kalispell, where they were hopping on a plane to Portland. Said our goodbyes.. it was so good seeing them, if only for a day.
That meant I had her house, which was also right on the lake, all to myself. I headed back, stopping along the way for some java at Cowgirl Coffee, one of the many places Chris recommended I check out. After coffee, I took one of the kyacks out for a spin on the lake. Didn't get more than 3 docks down, where I happened upon one of the victims of last night's storm... a practically brand new ski-boat, sunk. Pretty wild, rowing past, to see all that cash sitting on the bottom of the lake. That's what insurance is for, right?
Cruised back, and hit up the country club across the street for a massage, and here I am, back at the house, trying to get tan on the back patio. Stunning day outside... the lake is calm, and they're raising the sunken ski-boat next door. Really need to hit up Glacier National Park tomorrow, which is just a few miles east of Whitefish. But it will be tough to leave this spot, I can't lie. How do you walk away from heaven?
PART 2 - Durango, Great Sand Dunes, Breckenridge, Conifer
DAY 4 - "Durango"
Started the day after a good night's rest, care of the Hotel Strater in fantastic downtown Durango. After breakfast, most of Thursday morning was spent getting the "blog" up and running. It probably took way too long, but with a little help uploading pics via a hotel computer and editing the content on a laptop Jon Boeke lent me, it's good to go. Got it
published online, and took a nap while it stormed outside.
Refreshed, I picked up some tea from Durango Coffee Co., and went strolling around town. Couldn't be a more beautiful setting. While writing this section, I was sitting in the park off Main Street, listening to the train's whistle, and smelling the grilled meat from a nearby bbq competition. No threat of rain... the skies got their thunder and lightning out of the way earlier, while I was napping. It's really going to be tough to find a
better town along my Western travels. Durango sets the bar pretty high, and I'm really glad I stayed an extra night.
I meandered up and down Main Street for a couple hours, hitting a few camp stores for some supplies. Stopped for dinner at a place called Tequila's, after asking some locals which restaurant had the best Mexican food in town. And they did NOT disappoint. Fantastic salsa... best I've had in a long time.
Before bed, I grabbed some espresso (which was the best I've had since Japan... I can never find it very good in the states, so I was pleasantly surprised), and chatted with an Arizona State alum. Nice guy, who moved to Durango with his wife after 13 years in AZ. According to him, she demanded a change in scenery after finding a scorpion in their home. Hah! Just get a cat!!!
Not quite ready to hit the hay, I headed up the block to 2nd Ave and found a jazz trio playing outside an Italian restaurant. Sounded so good... keys, upright bass, and drums, with fireworks going off in the distance. I grabbed a chair on the patio, just to listen and enjoy the perfect temperature, and nobody bugged me about buying a drink or ordering up some food. So nice...
Ventured down 2nd Ave a bit, which feels a bit less touristy and more old-town cool than Main Street. Passed the Leland House Bed and Breakfast and Hotel Rochester, two promising spots for a future stay in Durango. Across the street from a Taylor Guitar dealer, I hit up another patio / restaurant / bar called the Cyprus Cafe for a martini. No live music, but it was too cool a setting to pass up. They specialize in locally grown produce and sustainable seafood, and the menu looked amazing. Too bad I already had dinner, but I kicked back and sipped my drink as the jazz band down the street fired up another set.
Ahhhhhhh Durango... this spot... this air... these smells. It just seems like they're all straight out of a dream.
DAY 5 - "Durango to The Great Sand Dunes"
Happy Independence Day! Woke up early... 6 AM. Grabbed one last Strater Hotel breakfast, and took off before the 4th of July celebrations could hinder my exit. Really didn't have anything to worry about, though, as the streets were EMPTY. I headed East on the 160, following the Animas River out of Durango, and passed through Pagosa Springs. I had originally planned on stopping in Pagosa, but skipped it after talking to a local last night. From his take, there's not much to see if you aren't planning to soak in the hotsprings. Besides, I wanted to get to the Great Sand Dunes about noon.
Outside of Pagosa, Route 160 just got spectacular as I entered the San Juan Forest. So many parts of the road followed and crossed rivers and streams, and Beefy just kept climbing. Feels like she hit 10,000 feet in a few spots. Soooo beautiful... rivers on all sides, forested hills, and HORSES. Healthy horses, like they belong right where they are. Basically, they're spitting images of what you think horses should look like. And plenty of cattle, grazing in lush green meadows that bump right up against the mountains. Halfway up, I stopped at a place called Treasure Falls. UNREAL little spot on the side of the road, with a flowing creek and what seemed like an army of chipmunks. I took the half mile hike through the forest to the top, where I was rewarded with an amazing sight: Treasure Falls. The waterfall spills over a towering cliff, dumping clean mountain water and creating an almost eerie mist between the trees. I headed back down to the truck and stopped to catch my breath.
It's strange, getting acclimated to these altitudes. The little mountain hikes I've been taking are a bit easier as the days go by, but I can still feel the effects: shortness of breath, slight nausea at times, and the occasional headache. Nothing major, but definitely something to get used to. It should all peak when I stay in Breckenridge tomorrow night, where it's 9600 feet above sea level.
After passing South Fork, the terrain flattened out considerably, with humdrum scenery the rest of the way to the Sand Dunes. But I did cross the Rio Grande just outside Alamosa, where I stopped for gas before my final push. The morning absolutely FLEW by, about 180 miles, and just like that, The Great Sand Dunes came into view.
Beautiful sight. They are the tallest dunes in North America, and on approach, they looked as if they were climbing up the mountains. Only one last lonely road before I hit the park entrance. And it was lonely, UNTIL I reached the visitor center and a long line of cars, waiting to get in. The Dunes were extremely crowded, which I guess is something to expect on a holiday weekend. But it all worked out. I arrived early enough, just as the campground was filling up, and grabbed a site with a fantastic view.
Pinon Campground, 88 sites, is similar to Morefield in Mesa Verde, with a little less room between neighbors. And like Morefield, bears are an issue. But this time, I had my very own "bear-proof locker". Score!!! There are warnings everywhere about keeping a clean campsite and locking up any food or items with "attractive scents". And to top it off, the main campground's trash dumpster is a veritable fortress.
After setting up, I cruised over to the Sand Dunes. The crowds were ALL here, playing in the creek that flowed past the base of Dunes. I made my way through the throngs, and hiked up the mountains of sand for an hour or two. Such a trip! Felt like I was in some huge African desert. I turned around after a mile or so, when the sky turned a bit unsettling. (Weather changes quick here, and you don't want to be on the dunes if lightning is a factor.)
Pretty much all worn out, I headed back to my campsite. After dinner, I barely made it to sunset before passing out in my tent. By the end of the day, the altitude, the heat, and the mosquitoes were finally getting to me, and I was feeling pretty ornery. But I had no problem falling asleep as the temps eventually cooled off.
DAY 6 - "Great Sand Dunes to Breckenridge"
I think I was the first one up throughout the entire camp, and I woke up to deer! Three of them, walking between the tents and trailers. Before heading out of The Great Sand Dunes, I hiked a couple miles along a trail next to my campsite. Some climbs, switchbacks, and sand made for difficult hiking. Startled a few more deer down trail, and had numerous views of the Dunes. I was a little apprehensive of bumping into a bear or mountain lion, so I sang along the trail. I read somewhere that you really don't want to startle a bear, so making some noise is a good thing. My noise on that early Saturday morning was everything from Johnny Cash to Jack Johnson.
Packed up the truck, and headed out towards Breckenridge. Another "mini-day" of driving, clocking in at about 160 miles. Passed beautiful Poncha Springs and stopped for lunch in Salida, a town on the banks of the Arkansas River that came highly recommended. The same kind of "wise-old-soul" that you find in Durango, just on a smaller scale. And like Durango, I fell in love with the place almost immediately. Scarfed some tacos at an open-air cantina, overlooking the river, and watched kyackers try to navigate the rapids. The city park, which was just a couple blocks over, and also right on the river, was even hosting a strong beer festival. Found myself wishing I had reserved a room for the night. Plenty of slick old hotels and funky shops to explore for a day or two.
Back on the road, I drove the final stretch to Breckenridge, still climbing and climbing. Passed the Continental Divide, the Platte River, and a cool little town called Alma, at about 10,500 feet above sea level. Also worked pretty hard at developing my "Tan Left Arm" (Mr. Peiffer and Mr. Boyd - you paying attention?).
Rolled into Breckenridge about 2 PM, and it took a few hours, but the city slowly grew on me. It's big, it's crowded, and above all the altitude was messing with my head. It also felt, hmmm, maybe a bit too clean? Too polished? But once you get past the new condo developments, Breck does have a cool Main Street scene, with plenty to see and do. I REALLY needed a shower after a couple days of hiking, but my hotel, The Great Divide, wouldn't check me in early. So, grime and all, I walked around town a bit, checked email in the hotel's business center, and FINALLY got into my room about 4. After staying at such a cool place in Durango, this hotel annoys me. It's a bit off the main drag, the elevators are goofy, the hallways are dingy, and they don't have air conditioning in the rooms. Not blazing hot, but not comfortable, either. Cleaned up and took the shuttle downtown, and into the rain.
Things started to look up, when I stopped at The Blue River Bistro, a place I had scoped out on my earlier walk. And as I write this section, I'm sitting at the bar, and the jazz quartet just started playing two songs ago. So as you can see, Breckenridge might just work out after all. The band sounds nice... drums, sax, guitar, and upright. I was skeptical about the guitar, thinking four is a crowd in this little place, but he actually might be the star. And here comes dinner.
Holy MOLY, it might be the altitude talking, but that may have been one of the best meals I've ever had. A total splurge tonight, monetary as well as dietary, but well worth it. Fantastic salad, followed up by a seafood primavera. Huge prawns, scallops, mushrooms, creamy tomatoe sauce all over linguini. Rarely do I sign up for pasta anymore, but yikes that was good. Yeah, I can't stay mad at Breck. Henceforth, any negative feelings in this town will be directed at my stupid hotel.
After an amazing dinner complimented with two solid sets of live jazz, I strolled down Main Street in search of some espresso. The rain had stopped, and everything smelled so fresh and so clean. (Sing it). And I love how late twilight lasts in Colorado. I thought that was just a Michigan thing... here it is, after 8 PM, and it's still bright. Wandered back to my hotel after some coffee at an internet cafe / oxygen bar, and hit the sack.
DAY 7 - "Breckenridge to Conifer"
Slept great, ate a pretty weak breakfast courtesy of my hotel, and checked out. I was more than happy to be done with the Great Divide...Blech. Hung out a bit in a French bistro, waiting over a cup of tea for another rainstorm to quit. The sun popped back out, and I headed outside to call my folks. I guess the skies were only taking a breather, because after I hung up the phone it turned NASTY. Thunder clouds started rolling down the mountain, with lightning strikes near the ski-lifts. The kind of weather where you hunker down and head indoors QUICK.
I found shelter JUST as it started pouring, in a slick little restaurant called The Cellar. A waiter last night at the Blue River recommended the place, and he wasn't messing around. It's a cool two story house from the late 1880's, with a big open room, large picture windows, and a bar right down the center. Wood floors, couches, and with the rain outside, I thought I was back in Michigan. It's almost TOO cozy. The servers were super-friendly, and I had the best grilled cheese sandwich in history. Seriously. Get to Breckenridge, go to The Cellar, and order a grilled cheese. You'll never be the same.
The rain was about done, so I made my way back towards the truck. I felt so much better...not fighting the altitude as much as I was yesterday. It was too nice outside to get driving just yet, so I headed down Main Street to the same internet cafe I hit up the night before. Loved the setup... 5 bucks, and I was able to check my email, and more importantly: upload my latest batch of pictures. Back outside, the skies were threatening again, so I decided to get driving.
SLOW going down the mountains out of Breckenridge. Heavy rain, heavy traffic. But I was in no particular hurry, as it was only 70 miles to Ed and Nancy's house in Conifer, where I'd bunk down for a couple nights. It took over 2 hours, but I had more incredible scenery as I followed the Platte River most of the way. I headed through the backroads just before Conifer, and found the house, with spectacular views of the foothills leading up to Pike's Peak, just off the balcony. I stretched a bit, unloaded the truck, and played guitar out on the deck with the dogs. Ed and Nancy arrived shortly after I did, coming back from a weekend visiting their son Ben, a buddy of mine from Arizona. We chatted the night away over egg sandwiches and Moose Drool (REALLY good beer out of Missoula).
DAY 8 - "Conifer"
And here I am, wrapping up Part Two of the blog. It's about lunch time. I had a fantastic night's sleep, woke up about 6:30, and we hiked down to the mailbox... which at 3 miles round trip up and down the hills, it's a nice workout. We're about 8700 feet above sea level, but I've almost completely adjusted to the altitude. Got back to the house just as it started raining, something this area desparately needs. Anything I can do to help! Taking it easy today, doing some laundry, and just marveling at the views just outside the window. (THANKS NANCY AND ED!!!!)
That should do it for now... thanks again for reading, and I should have more when I stop in Montana in a few days. Peace!
Started the day after a good night's rest, care of the Hotel Strater in fantastic downtown Durango. After breakfast, most of Thursday morning was spent getting the "blog" up and running. It probably took way too long, but with a little help uploading pics via a hotel computer and editing the content on a laptop Jon Boeke lent me, it's good to go. Got it
published online, and took a nap while it stormed outside.
Refreshed, I picked up some tea from Durango Coffee Co., and went strolling around town. Couldn't be a more beautiful setting. While writing this section, I was sitting in the park off Main Street, listening to the train's whistle, and smelling the grilled meat from a nearby bbq competition. No threat of rain... the skies got their thunder and lightning out of the way earlier, while I was napping. It's really going to be tough to find a
better town along my Western travels. Durango sets the bar pretty high, and I'm really glad I stayed an extra night.
I meandered up and down Main Street for a couple hours, hitting a few camp stores for some supplies. Stopped for dinner at a place called Tequila's, after asking some locals which restaurant had the best Mexican food in town. And they did NOT disappoint. Fantastic salsa... best I've had in a long time.
Before bed, I grabbed some espresso (which was the best I've had since Japan... I can never find it very good in the states, so I was pleasantly surprised), and chatted with an Arizona State alum. Nice guy, who moved to Durango with his wife after 13 years in AZ. According to him, she demanded a change in scenery after finding a scorpion in their home. Hah! Just get a cat!!!
Not quite ready to hit the hay, I headed up the block to 2nd Ave and found a jazz trio playing outside an Italian restaurant. Sounded so good... keys, upright bass, and drums, with fireworks going off in the distance. I grabbed a chair on the patio, just to listen and enjoy the perfect temperature, and nobody bugged me about buying a drink or ordering up some food. So nice...
Ventured down 2nd Ave a bit, which feels a bit less touristy and more old-town cool than Main Street. Passed the Leland House Bed and Breakfast and Hotel Rochester, two promising spots for a future stay in Durango. Across the street from a Taylor Guitar dealer, I hit up another patio / restaurant / bar called the Cyprus Cafe for a martini. No live music, but it was too cool a setting to pass up. They specialize in locally grown produce and sustainable seafood, and the menu looked amazing. Too bad I already had dinner, but I kicked back and sipped my drink as the jazz band down the street fired up another set.
Ahhhhhhh Durango... this spot... this air... these smells. It just seems like they're all straight out of a dream.
DAY 5 - "Durango to The Great Sand Dunes"
Happy Independence Day! Woke up early... 6 AM. Grabbed one last Strater Hotel breakfast, and took off before the 4th of July celebrations could hinder my exit. Really didn't have anything to worry about, though, as the streets were EMPTY. I headed East on the 160, following the Animas River out of Durango, and passed through Pagosa Springs. I had originally planned on stopping in Pagosa, but skipped it after talking to a local last night. From his take, there's not much to see if you aren't planning to soak in the hotsprings. Besides, I wanted to get to the Great Sand Dunes about noon.
Outside of Pagosa, Route 160 just got spectacular as I entered the San Juan Forest. So many parts of the road followed and crossed rivers and streams, and Beefy just kept climbing. Feels like she hit 10,000 feet in a few spots. Soooo beautiful... rivers on all sides, forested hills, and HORSES. Healthy horses, like they belong right where they are. Basically, they're spitting images of what you think horses should look like. And plenty of cattle, grazing in lush green meadows that bump right up against the mountains. Halfway up, I stopped at a place called Treasure Falls. UNREAL little spot on the side of the road, with a flowing creek and what seemed like an army of chipmunks. I took the half mile hike through the forest to the top, where I was rewarded with an amazing sight: Treasure Falls. The waterfall spills over a towering cliff, dumping clean mountain water and creating an almost eerie mist between the trees. I headed back down to the truck and stopped to catch my breath.
It's strange, getting acclimated to these altitudes. The little mountain hikes I've been taking are a bit easier as the days go by, but I can still feel the effects: shortness of breath, slight nausea at times, and the occasional headache. Nothing major, but definitely something to get used to. It should all peak when I stay in Breckenridge tomorrow night, where it's 9600 feet above sea level.
After passing South Fork, the terrain flattened out considerably, with humdrum scenery the rest of the way to the Sand Dunes. But I did cross the Rio Grande just outside Alamosa, where I stopped for gas before my final push. The morning absolutely FLEW by, about 180 miles, and just like that, The Great Sand Dunes came into view.
Beautiful sight. They are the tallest dunes in North America, and on approach, they looked as if they were climbing up the mountains. Only one last lonely road before I hit the park entrance. And it was lonely, UNTIL I reached the visitor center and a long line of cars, waiting to get in. The Dunes were extremely crowded, which I guess is something to expect on a holiday weekend. But it all worked out. I arrived early enough, just as the campground was filling up, and grabbed a site with a fantastic view.
Pinon Campground, 88 sites, is similar to Morefield in Mesa Verde, with a little less room between neighbors. And like Morefield, bears are an issue. But this time, I had my very own "bear-proof locker". Score!!! There are warnings everywhere about keeping a clean campsite and locking up any food or items with "attractive scents". And to top it off, the main campground's trash dumpster is a veritable fortress.
After setting up, I cruised over to the Sand Dunes. The crowds were ALL here, playing in the creek that flowed past the base of Dunes. I made my way through the throngs, and hiked up the mountains of sand for an hour or two. Such a trip! Felt like I was in some huge African desert. I turned around after a mile or so, when the sky turned a bit unsettling. (Weather changes quick here, and you don't want to be on the dunes if lightning is a factor.)
Pretty much all worn out, I headed back to my campsite. After dinner, I barely made it to sunset before passing out in my tent. By the end of the day, the altitude, the heat, and the mosquitoes were finally getting to me, and I was feeling pretty ornery. But I had no problem falling asleep as the temps eventually cooled off.
DAY 6 - "Great Sand Dunes to Breckenridge"
I think I was the first one up throughout the entire camp, and I woke up to deer! Three of them, walking between the tents and trailers. Before heading out of The Great Sand Dunes, I hiked a couple miles along a trail next to my campsite. Some climbs, switchbacks, and sand made for difficult hiking. Startled a few more deer down trail, and had numerous views of the Dunes. I was a little apprehensive of bumping into a bear or mountain lion, so I sang along the trail. I read somewhere that you really don't want to startle a bear, so making some noise is a good thing. My noise on that early Saturday morning was everything from Johnny Cash to Jack Johnson.
Packed up the truck, and headed out towards Breckenridge. Another "mini-day" of driving, clocking in at about 160 miles. Passed beautiful Poncha Springs and stopped for lunch in Salida, a town on the banks of the Arkansas River that came highly recommended. The same kind of "wise-old-soul" that you find in Durango, just on a smaller scale. And like Durango, I fell in love with the place almost immediately. Scarfed some tacos at an open-air cantina, overlooking the river, and watched kyackers try to navigate the rapids. The city park, which was just a couple blocks over, and also right on the river, was even hosting a strong beer festival. Found myself wishing I had reserved a room for the night. Plenty of slick old hotels and funky shops to explore for a day or two.
Back on the road, I drove the final stretch to Breckenridge, still climbing and climbing. Passed the Continental Divide, the Platte River, and a cool little town called Alma, at about 10,500 feet above sea level. Also worked pretty hard at developing my "Tan Left Arm" (Mr. Peiffer and Mr. Boyd - you paying attention?).
Rolled into Breckenridge about 2 PM, and it took a few hours, but the city slowly grew on me. It's big, it's crowded, and above all the altitude was messing with my head. It also felt, hmmm, maybe a bit too clean? Too polished? But once you get past the new condo developments, Breck does have a cool Main Street scene, with plenty to see and do. I REALLY needed a shower after a couple days of hiking, but my hotel, The Great Divide, wouldn't check me in early. So, grime and all, I walked around town a bit, checked email in the hotel's business center, and FINALLY got into my room about 4. After staying at such a cool place in Durango, this hotel annoys me. It's a bit off the main drag, the elevators are goofy, the hallways are dingy, and they don't have air conditioning in the rooms. Not blazing hot, but not comfortable, either. Cleaned up and took the shuttle downtown, and into the rain.
Things started to look up, when I stopped at The Blue River Bistro, a place I had scoped out on my earlier walk. And as I write this section, I'm sitting at the bar, and the jazz quartet just started playing two songs ago. So as you can see, Breckenridge might just work out after all. The band sounds nice... drums, sax, guitar, and upright. I was skeptical about the guitar, thinking four is a crowd in this little place, but he actually might be the star. And here comes dinner.
Holy MOLY, it might be the altitude talking, but that may have been one of the best meals I've ever had. A total splurge tonight, monetary as well as dietary, but well worth it. Fantastic salad, followed up by a seafood primavera. Huge prawns, scallops, mushrooms, creamy tomatoe sauce all over linguini. Rarely do I sign up for pasta anymore, but yikes that was good. Yeah, I can't stay mad at Breck. Henceforth, any negative feelings in this town will be directed at my stupid hotel.
After an amazing dinner complimented with two solid sets of live jazz, I strolled down Main Street in search of some espresso. The rain had stopped, and everything smelled so fresh and so clean. (Sing it). And I love how late twilight lasts in Colorado. I thought that was just a Michigan thing... here it is, after 8 PM, and it's still bright. Wandered back to my hotel after some coffee at an internet cafe / oxygen bar, and hit the sack.
DAY 7 - "Breckenridge to Conifer"
Slept great, ate a pretty weak breakfast courtesy of my hotel, and checked out. I was more than happy to be done with the Great Divide...Blech. Hung out a bit in a French bistro, waiting over a cup of tea for another rainstorm to quit. The sun popped back out, and I headed outside to call my folks. I guess the skies were only taking a breather, because after I hung up the phone it turned NASTY. Thunder clouds started rolling down the mountain, with lightning strikes near the ski-lifts. The kind of weather where you hunker down and head indoors QUICK.
I found shelter JUST as it started pouring, in a slick little restaurant called The Cellar. A waiter last night at the Blue River recommended the place, and he wasn't messing around. It's a cool two story house from the late 1880's, with a big open room, large picture windows, and a bar right down the center. Wood floors, couches, and with the rain outside, I thought I was back in Michigan. It's almost TOO cozy. The servers were super-friendly, and I had the best grilled cheese sandwich in history. Seriously. Get to Breckenridge, go to The Cellar, and order a grilled cheese. You'll never be the same.
The rain was about done, so I made my way back towards the truck. I felt so much better...not fighting the altitude as much as I was yesterday. It was too nice outside to get driving just yet, so I headed down Main Street to the same internet cafe I hit up the night before. Loved the setup... 5 bucks, and I was able to check my email, and more importantly: upload my latest batch of pictures. Back outside, the skies were threatening again, so I decided to get driving.
SLOW going down the mountains out of Breckenridge. Heavy rain, heavy traffic. But I was in no particular hurry, as it was only 70 miles to Ed and Nancy's house in Conifer, where I'd bunk down for a couple nights. It took over 2 hours, but I had more incredible scenery as I followed the Platte River most of the way. I headed through the backroads just before Conifer, and found the house, with spectacular views of the foothills leading up to Pike's Peak, just off the balcony. I stretched a bit, unloaded the truck, and played guitar out on the deck with the dogs. Ed and Nancy arrived shortly after I did, coming back from a weekend visiting their son Ben, a buddy of mine from Arizona. We chatted the night away over egg sandwiches and Moose Drool (REALLY good beer out of Missoula).
DAY 8 - "Conifer"
And here I am, wrapping up Part Two of the blog. It's about lunch time. I had a fantastic night's sleep, woke up about 6:30, and we hiked down to the mailbox... which at 3 miles round trip up and down the hills, it's a nice workout. We're about 8700 feet above sea level, but I've almost completely adjusted to the altitude. Got back to the house just as it started raining, something this area desparately needs. Anything I can do to help! Taking it easy today, doing some laundry, and just marveling at the views just outside the window. (THANKS NANCY AND ED!!!!)
That should do it for now... thanks again for reading, and I should have more when I stop in Montana in a few days. Peace!
The Western Road Trip Begins! PART 1 - Tempe, Monument Valley, Mesa Verde, Durango
DAY 1 - "Tempe to Monument Valley, UT"
Well here I am, at the start of my hiatus. After over 10 successful years in the corporate world, I decided to step off the grid for awhile and do some rambling. All the planning behind me, I woke up Monday morning, the last day in June, after a few hours of restless sleep. I locked the door to my apartment, which I wouldn't see for a month, and finished loading my 2002 Dodge Ram, or "Beefy" as I like to call her. Beefy came out of retirement when I sold my sedan last week, and after slapping a camper shell on the back and an extensive tune-up, she felt ready for a 4500 mile trek throughout the Western United States. I pulled out of my garage in downtown Tempe, and made my way towards Colorado, Montana, the West Coast, and some places in between.
Beautiful day for driving. Traffic out of Phoenix was very light... I was expecting the worst considering I left during rush-hour on a Monday morning. It was way too easy making it up to Flagstaff, where I turned right onto the 40. I skipped stopping in downtown, where traffic can get heavy at times. Besides, I'd probably want to stay a few hours... Flag is such a great town. After about 200 miles into the day, I decided to make my first stop, and an unplanned one at that: Meteor Crater. All-in-all, it's probably something to skip. Impressive, yes, looking down upon an impact site from a comet that fell 50,000 years ago, but SO touristy. I blazed past the gift shops, museum, and tours, although I was interested in the connection Meteor Crater has to the Space Program. Apollo Astronauts trained here for the moon missions, and they even had an old capsule on display. I stuck around for about 15 minutes before continuing East towards Winslow.
Route 66! I had my first brush with the infamous stretch of road when I stopped off in Winslow, Arizona, looking for that obligatory corner to stand on. It's a pretty cool little town... as if you took all the funky old parts of Flagstaff and condensed them into a few small blocks. The Santa Fe railroad stops here (or used to), and you have all the kitschy Route 66 hotels and diners leading to the downtown area. And sure enough, I found that legendary corner the Eagles sang about. Walked around a bit, but not much to Winslow beyond a closed coffee shop and a couple gift shops.
Not much in the way of scenery along I-40. Pretty much the second you head East out of Flagstaff, the terrain is flat and barren...(maybe a result of the meteor strike 50k years ago???). Stopped for lunch in the Painted Desert, just north of the Petrified Forest. I'm really going to try to eat decent on this month-long road trip, and avoid as much fast food as possible. So I stocked up at Trader Joes the night before I left. They have the best travel food... avocados, turkey, smoked salmon, dehydrated bananas and berries, pita, etc. I also snagged some "Space Food" from REI camp supplies to top it off, so I should be set for the first week or so.
After gas in Chambers, I headed north into the reservation towards Canyon de Chelly. Chelly was a place I'd heard great things about when I first moved to Arizona, but after finally seeing it, I think once is enough. Don't get me wrong, there are a few overlooks of beautiful canyons, but I'd been recently spoiled with a 6 day hike through Southern Utah. You get those amazing views around almost every corner up there. I stopped off along Canyon de Chelly's Antelope Lookout, and barely snapped a couple photos before it started to rain. The rain quickly became hail, and I felt Chelly almost didn't want me there! I fled, and the hail storm abruptly switched back to sunny blue skies. Weird.
A half hour outside of Chelly, and the terrain started turning beautiful, and just got better as the day progressed. I crossed into Utah, and since I'm not far from the spectacular sights of Lake Powell and Southern Utah, the land is bound to impress. Towering rock spires everywhere, like something you'd see out of a movie. About mile 400 in my 480 mile day, along Route 191, and it just became unreal.
Just as the sun began to set, I finally reached Monument Valley, and my turn-off to camp. I followed a dirt road past unbelievable sights, absolutely gasping at the cliffs and rock formations around every curve. Just when I would decide on a "perfect" campsite, I'd push further and find something even better. About 10 miles into the dirt road, I found my spot. After dinner, I rearranged my gear so I could sleep in the pickup, air mattress and all. After a hot day, the wind made the temps real comfortable, and I played some guitar under the stars before bed.
DAY 2 - "Monument Valley to Mesa Verde, CO"
Woke up to hummingbirds outside. It's July 1. Beginning of the new fiscal year, and I was a bit groggy after another night of interrupted sleep. Bunking down in the pickup might be the last resort, as I just couldn't get comfortable. But a lack of sleep couldn't get me down. Watched the sunrise over the valley, and had breakfast of blueberry granola (space food) and hardboiled eggs. Listened to the Sirius Satellite radio I borrowed from Chris Rosewell, and I think that little device might be the unsung hero so far. Crystal clear sound, in the middle of nowhere. Packed up the truck, played a little guitar, and followed the dirt road through more unbelievable scenery. Beautiful just isn't a good enough word. Found one of Tom Vesbit's most infamous mix tapes, "Trains", and it was a perfect soundtrack for the last 7 miles of dirt road. Couldn't help but crank up the speed a bit as the theme from "Star Wars" came on. Too... much... FUN!
After a few miles backtracking west, I found Goosenecks State Park, which over looks the twists and turns of the San Juan River. This is the spot where Lake Powell finishes (or begins?), and while there wasn't much more than a parking lot, the view was spectacular. Seems like spectacular views aren't hard to come by here in Monument Valley.
On the way to Cortez, I passed through Bluff, Utah, and quickly missed my turn. No worries... only put me about 20 miles out of the way and I filled up in Montecello. Just a few miles left in this 120 mile day, and I pulled out a couple more mix tapes. I brought many entertainment options for the long drive.... 1300 songs and dozens of podcasts for my Ipod, CD's on American History and learning Spanish, but my favorite so far has been the mix tapes! Searching through my closet at home, I found a ton of old tapes, most of them about 10 years old. The first was a sped up recording from 1997 of Matt Priest and me, goofing around on our spring break roadtrip to Disney World. Still "laugh-out-loud" funny to this day. We sound like deranged chipmunks with our sped up voices. The other mix tape was from Seth Jenkins, an arrangement of songs called "Let's Ride". Such a solid mix of grooves, perfect for the drive.
My first time in Colorado, and so far so good... beautiful green fields, roaming horses, and mountains off in the distance. Just past Cortez (a big city with everything you need, or don't need), and I head up the mountains into Mesa Verde National Park. Winding roads, and I just kept climbing and climbing. Must be 7 to 8000 feet, and stunning. Rolling green hills with vistas of the cities far below. It's still early in the game, but the truck is doing well, and she's in good company. Throughout Northern AZ, Utah, and now Colorado I see a TON of Dodge trucks, new and old. Keep it up Beefy... make me proud!
Stopped at the Morefield Campground, about 5 miles into the park, to grab a spot. Definitely had not been to a reserved-space campground in awhile, but it will do fine. The sites are setup so you are allowed maximum privacy from your neighbors, but watch out for bears! Yup. Need to lock my food in the truck, but sleeping in the tent should be safe (or so they told me at the visitor center).
After lunch and a quick nap (in my tent this time), I followed the Mesa Verde road deep into the park. More winding, mountain roads, and after about 10 miles in I encountered the first of many Mesa Verde cliff dwellings. These 800 year old little cities look as if they're literally carved out of the rock faces. The area was a bit crowded, but it didn't feel touristy at all. I hiked down to "Spruce Tree House", where you can get up close an personal with history, and drove a bit further into the park to catch a glimpse of "Cliff Palace". Just incredible, and impressively preserved. I tried to finish up at one more dwelling, "Balcony House", but it was getting late and they closed off the trail, so I headed back to the campground. Such a nice drive up here in Mesa Verde... window down, smooth pavement, and a perfect breeze. Ah Colorado...
Back at camp, I hit the showers. Talk about a little piece of heaven... washing off the road grime and trail sludge. Felt like things slowed down after I stepped out. Hit the general store for crackers, a candle, and beer. Good beer! Mirror Pond straight out of Bend, Oregon, and one of my favorites. After a dinner of smoked salmon, I walked around camp a bit. Few other campers, but happened upon a couple, with the guy playing guitar and the woman dancing in the dirt road. Didn't stick around long, as I was ready for a good night's sleep. Tomorrow will be nice.. a quick 30 to 40 miles to Durango, and a BED.
DAY 3 - "Mesa Verde to Durango, CO"
Man o' man do I love Mesa Verde. I wrote this section in my notebook, while hanging out on a bench, 8500 feet above sea level, along a trail to the highest point in the park. I packed up the truck after breakfast and guitar and a FANTASTIC night's sleep, and headed out of Morefield Campground for good. Didn't feel the need to scoot over to Durango just yet, so I opted to take the drive through Mesa Verde again. There are two main, 12-15 mile routes you can take, Chapin Mesa and Wetherill Mesa. Chapin was yesterday, with more crowds but amazing sights at Spruce Tree and Cliff Palace. I took the other route this morning, to Wetherill, along a more formidable road. And there were far fewer people taking this winding road.
I stopped at the Wetherill visitor center, which is the launching pad to the various ruins. Skipped out on ranger-led tour, and took the 2 mile, self-guided hike to Nordenskiold #16. I was alone the entire trail, except for a large buck that hopped across my path. The overlook of the cliff ruins was impressive, and nice to have all to myself. Hung out a bit, reading about the Anasazi Indians who setup shop here, 800 years ago. Strolled back to the truck, prepped it for a return to civilization, and made my way out of Mesa Verde and towards Durango.
After near-perfect weather the past few days, it rained throughout my 36 mile drive to Durango and made for slow going. But MAN was it beautiful climbing into the mountains. Everything so lush...so green. The rain stopped just as I crossed the river and into downtown Durango. I could immediately tell that I'd like this little city. Main Street had it all... all the old buildings in a row, from coffee shops to bars to art galleries. Pulled into the Strater Hotel, established 1887. Reminds me of something out of Bisbee, similar to one of the old bed n' breakfasts. Took the SLOW elevator to the top floor to find my room... small but perfect after a few nights out in the wilderness. After cleaning up, I headed downstairs to reserve an extra night, and headed out to explore Durango.
Main street runs pretty far, past everything and anything. Hopped off the main drag for a bit, and found a beautiful old neighborhood with 100+ year old homes shaded under towering trees. Turned back and found a guy playing guitar on a rooftop patio / bar, and hung out for a couple beers (Durango Wheat --- when in Rome...). The clouds pulled back, letting in some sunshine, with temps in the 80's. Jeeze Louise. Grabbed a killer steak at a place called "Randy's", and crashed out in my hotel room pretty early.
So here I am, Thursday morning... time to wrap up for now. A full day tooling around Durango is ahead of me, and then it's back into the wilderness tomorrow, with a stop in the Great Sand Dunes. Should have another opportunity to write after a few days, so until then, thanks for reading, and hope you are well. Peace!
Well here I am, at the start of my hiatus. After over 10 successful years in the corporate world, I decided to step off the grid for awhile and do some rambling. All the planning behind me, I woke up Monday morning, the last day in June, after a few hours of restless sleep. I locked the door to my apartment, which I wouldn't see for a month, and finished loading my 2002 Dodge Ram, or "Beefy" as I like to call her. Beefy came out of retirement when I sold my sedan last week, and after slapping a camper shell on the back and an extensive tune-up, she felt ready for a 4500 mile trek throughout the Western United States. I pulled out of my garage in downtown Tempe, and made my way towards Colorado, Montana, the West Coast, and some places in between.
Beautiful day for driving. Traffic out of Phoenix was very light... I was expecting the worst considering I left during rush-hour on a Monday morning. It was way too easy making it up to Flagstaff, where I turned right onto the 40. I skipped stopping in downtown, where traffic can get heavy at times. Besides, I'd probably want to stay a few hours... Flag is such a great town. After about 200 miles into the day, I decided to make my first stop, and an unplanned one at that: Meteor Crater. All-in-all, it's probably something to skip. Impressive, yes, looking down upon an impact site from a comet that fell 50,000 years ago, but SO touristy. I blazed past the gift shops, museum, and tours, although I was interested in the connection Meteor Crater has to the Space Program. Apollo Astronauts trained here for the moon missions, and they even had an old capsule on display. I stuck around for about 15 minutes before continuing East towards Winslow.
Route 66! I had my first brush with the infamous stretch of road when I stopped off in Winslow, Arizona, looking for that obligatory corner to stand on. It's a pretty cool little town... as if you took all the funky old parts of Flagstaff and condensed them into a few small blocks. The Santa Fe railroad stops here (or used to), and you have all the kitschy Route 66 hotels and diners leading to the downtown area. And sure enough, I found that legendary corner the Eagles sang about. Walked around a bit, but not much to Winslow beyond a closed coffee shop and a couple gift shops.
Not much in the way of scenery along I-40. Pretty much the second you head East out of Flagstaff, the terrain is flat and barren...(maybe a result of the meteor strike 50k years ago???). Stopped for lunch in the Painted Desert, just north of the Petrified Forest. I'm really going to try to eat decent on this month-long road trip, and avoid as much fast food as possible. So I stocked up at Trader Joes the night before I left. They have the best travel food... avocados, turkey, smoked salmon, dehydrated bananas and berries, pita, etc. I also snagged some "Space Food" from REI camp supplies to top it off, so I should be set for the first week or so.
After gas in Chambers, I headed north into the reservation towards Canyon de Chelly. Chelly was a place I'd heard great things about when I first moved to Arizona, but after finally seeing it, I think once is enough. Don't get me wrong, there are a few overlooks of beautiful canyons, but I'd been recently spoiled with a 6 day hike through Southern Utah. You get those amazing views around almost every corner up there. I stopped off along Canyon de Chelly's Antelope Lookout, and barely snapped a couple photos before it started to rain. The rain quickly became hail, and I felt Chelly almost didn't want me there! I fled, and the hail storm abruptly switched back to sunny blue skies. Weird.
A half hour outside of Chelly, and the terrain started turning beautiful, and just got better as the day progressed. I crossed into Utah, and since I'm not far from the spectacular sights of Lake Powell and Southern Utah, the land is bound to impress. Towering rock spires everywhere, like something you'd see out of a movie. About mile 400 in my 480 mile day, along Route 191, and it just became unreal.
Just as the sun began to set, I finally reached Monument Valley, and my turn-off to camp. I followed a dirt road past unbelievable sights, absolutely gasping at the cliffs and rock formations around every curve. Just when I would decide on a "perfect" campsite, I'd push further and find something even better. About 10 miles into the dirt road, I found my spot. After dinner, I rearranged my gear so I could sleep in the pickup, air mattress and all. After a hot day, the wind made the temps real comfortable, and I played some guitar under the stars before bed.
DAY 2 - "Monument Valley to Mesa Verde, CO"
Woke up to hummingbirds outside. It's July 1. Beginning of the new fiscal year, and I was a bit groggy after another night of interrupted sleep. Bunking down in the pickup might be the last resort, as I just couldn't get comfortable. But a lack of sleep couldn't get me down. Watched the sunrise over the valley, and had breakfast of blueberry granola (space food) and hardboiled eggs. Listened to the Sirius Satellite radio I borrowed from Chris Rosewell, and I think that little device might be the unsung hero so far. Crystal clear sound, in the middle of nowhere. Packed up the truck, played a little guitar, and followed the dirt road through more unbelievable scenery. Beautiful just isn't a good enough word. Found one of Tom Vesbit's most infamous mix tapes, "Trains", and it was a perfect soundtrack for the last 7 miles of dirt road. Couldn't help but crank up the speed a bit as the theme from "Star Wars" came on. Too... much... FUN!
After a few miles backtracking west, I found Goosenecks State Park, which over looks the twists and turns of the San Juan River. This is the spot where Lake Powell finishes (or begins?), and while there wasn't much more than a parking lot, the view was spectacular. Seems like spectacular views aren't hard to come by here in Monument Valley.
On the way to Cortez, I passed through Bluff, Utah, and quickly missed my turn. No worries... only put me about 20 miles out of the way and I filled up in Montecello. Just a few miles left in this 120 mile day, and I pulled out a couple more mix tapes. I brought many entertainment options for the long drive.... 1300 songs and dozens of podcasts for my Ipod, CD's on American History and learning Spanish, but my favorite so far has been the mix tapes! Searching through my closet at home, I found a ton of old tapes, most of them about 10 years old. The first was a sped up recording from 1997 of Matt Priest and me, goofing around on our spring break roadtrip to Disney World. Still "laugh-out-loud" funny to this day. We sound like deranged chipmunks with our sped up voices. The other mix tape was from Seth Jenkins, an arrangement of songs called "Let's Ride". Such a solid mix of grooves, perfect for the drive.
My first time in Colorado, and so far so good... beautiful green fields, roaming horses, and mountains off in the distance. Just past Cortez (a big city with everything you need, or don't need), and I head up the mountains into Mesa Verde National Park. Winding roads, and I just kept climbing and climbing. Must be 7 to 8000 feet, and stunning. Rolling green hills with vistas of the cities far below. It's still early in the game, but the truck is doing well, and she's in good company. Throughout Northern AZ, Utah, and now Colorado I see a TON of Dodge trucks, new and old. Keep it up Beefy... make me proud!
Stopped at the Morefield Campground, about 5 miles into the park, to grab a spot. Definitely had not been to a reserved-space campground in awhile, but it will do fine. The sites are setup so you are allowed maximum privacy from your neighbors, but watch out for bears! Yup. Need to lock my food in the truck, but sleeping in the tent should be safe (or so they told me at the visitor center).
After lunch and a quick nap (in my tent this time), I followed the Mesa Verde road deep into the park. More winding, mountain roads, and after about 10 miles in I encountered the first of many Mesa Verde cliff dwellings. These 800 year old little cities look as if they're literally carved out of the rock faces. The area was a bit crowded, but it didn't feel touristy at all. I hiked down to "Spruce Tree House", where you can get up close an personal with history, and drove a bit further into the park to catch a glimpse of "Cliff Palace". Just incredible, and impressively preserved. I tried to finish up at one more dwelling, "Balcony House", but it was getting late and they closed off the trail, so I headed back to the campground. Such a nice drive up here in Mesa Verde... window down, smooth pavement, and a perfect breeze. Ah Colorado...
Back at camp, I hit the showers. Talk about a little piece of heaven... washing off the road grime and trail sludge. Felt like things slowed down after I stepped out. Hit the general store for crackers, a candle, and beer. Good beer! Mirror Pond straight out of Bend, Oregon, and one of my favorites. After a dinner of smoked salmon, I walked around camp a bit. Few other campers, but happened upon a couple, with the guy playing guitar and the woman dancing in the dirt road. Didn't stick around long, as I was ready for a good night's sleep. Tomorrow will be nice.. a quick 30 to 40 miles to Durango, and a BED.
DAY 3 - "Mesa Verde to Durango, CO"
Man o' man do I love Mesa Verde. I wrote this section in my notebook, while hanging out on a bench, 8500 feet above sea level, along a trail to the highest point in the park. I packed up the truck after breakfast and guitar and a FANTASTIC night's sleep, and headed out of Morefield Campground for good. Didn't feel the need to scoot over to Durango just yet, so I opted to take the drive through Mesa Verde again. There are two main, 12-15 mile routes you can take, Chapin Mesa and Wetherill Mesa. Chapin was yesterday, with more crowds but amazing sights at Spruce Tree and Cliff Palace. I took the other route this morning, to Wetherill, along a more formidable road. And there were far fewer people taking this winding road.
I stopped at the Wetherill visitor center, which is the launching pad to the various ruins. Skipped out on ranger-led tour, and took the 2 mile, self-guided hike to Nordenskiold #16. I was alone the entire trail, except for a large buck that hopped across my path. The overlook of the cliff ruins was impressive, and nice to have all to myself. Hung out a bit, reading about the Anasazi Indians who setup shop here, 800 years ago. Strolled back to the truck, prepped it for a return to civilization, and made my way out of Mesa Verde and towards Durango.
After near-perfect weather the past few days, it rained throughout my 36 mile drive to Durango and made for slow going. But MAN was it beautiful climbing into the mountains. Everything so lush...so green. The rain stopped just as I crossed the river and into downtown Durango. I could immediately tell that I'd like this little city. Main Street had it all... all the old buildings in a row, from coffee shops to bars to art galleries. Pulled into the Strater Hotel, established 1887. Reminds me of something out of Bisbee, similar to one of the old bed n' breakfasts. Took the SLOW elevator to the top floor to find my room... small but perfect after a few nights out in the wilderness. After cleaning up, I headed downstairs to reserve an extra night, and headed out to explore Durango.
Main street runs pretty far, past everything and anything. Hopped off the main drag for a bit, and found a beautiful old neighborhood with 100+ year old homes shaded under towering trees. Turned back and found a guy playing guitar on a rooftop patio / bar, and hung out for a couple beers (Durango Wheat --- when in Rome...). The clouds pulled back, letting in some sunshine, with temps in the 80's. Jeeze Louise. Grabbed a killer steak at a place called "Randy's", and crashed out in my hotel room pretty early.
So here I am, Thursday morning... time to wrap up for now. A full day tooling around Durango is ahead of me, and then it's back into the wilderness tomorrow, with a stop in the Great Sand Dunes. Should have another opportunity to write after a few days, so until then, thanks for reading, and hope you are well. Peace!
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)