DAY 9 - "Rocky Mountain National Park, Colorado"
Sitting in Hollowell Park, deep within Rocky Mountain when I wrote this section. Just finished dinner and the sun doesn't have a whole lot left to give. Hollowell is such a nice stop off of Bear Lake Road. Snow-covered peaks just over foothills of dark green forests. Probably about time to head back to the campground, but just a few more seconds.
Had a great day yesterday, just hanging around at the house in Conifer, Colorado. I said it over and over, but it was SO nice to recharge my batteries after a week on the road. Ed cooked up a feast for dinner... perfect steaks, ceasar salad, potatoes, and fresh cherries for dessert. Spent another night chatting, attacking a New York Times crossword, and I rolled into bed about 10.
Woke up early on my last day in Conifer, and once again did the 3 mile hike to the mailbox. This time we had more company, as the neighbors joined up. Packed the truck, said my farewell, and took to the road. Ed and Nancy spoiled me... and now I feel refreshed, ready for my next leg of this Western journey.
On the way to Boulder, I caught a brief glimpse of Denver's skyline, but before I could blink it was gone. Fine by me. I really don't want to mess with any big cities until I get to Portland.
Stopped in Boulder for lunch at a place called "The Kitchen". Cool college town, with fantastic trees throughout the Pearl Street Mall. Pearl was the "Main Street" of Boulder, with tons of cool shops and restaurants. My lunch was decent (think I may have ordered the wrong thing), but I fell in love with Boulder Books, a cool multi-level bookstore right on the mall, that reminded of Powell's in Portland. I walked a ways up the Pearl, where it turned into a slick little residential hood. Couldn't get over the vegetation, where it almost swallowed the sidewalk. Hit up the Whole Foods for groceries on my way out of town, just as the weather started to get nasty. Big dark storm clouds coming down off Boulder's mountains.
Another easy day of driving, I was only about 30 miles away from Rocky Mountain National Park. Passed through a neat looking town called Estes Park, which bumped up against the entrance to Rocky Mountain NP. Found Moraine Campground, where I made a reservation the day before. Glad I did, as it didn't take long to fill. After scoping out the camp, I went driving, deep into the park. Stopped off in a huge valley, checking out a stream that gurgled past a group of horseback riders.
Rocky Mountain National Park is IMMENSE. No way I could even scratch the surface in one day, but I still jumped in head first. Hiked 4 miles of the Fern Lake Trail, which followed the river the entire way. So lush down there... felt like an endless spring, with the vegetation growing straight out of the rocks. After walking about 10 miles for the day, my legs were about done, so I drove deeper into the huge park along Bear Lake Road. Followed it to the end, 9500 feet up, and discovered an absolute gem: Bear Lake.
As the sun set over the mountains, Bear Lake actually became easier to see (and to photograph). I took the path around its shoreline, mesmerized. Stumbled back to the car, in that same type of haze / bliss I was under back in Mesa Verde. "Colorado Haze", as I like to call it. After stopping for dinner in wide open Hollowell Park, I headed back to camp and slept in the truck.
DAY 10 - "The Grand Tetons, Wyoming"
Woke up with the dawn, after a surprisingly good night's sleep in the back of the pickup. It turned quite cold, so sleeping up off the ground was probably a better deal than the tent. Besides, it was much easier to pack up and skip town.
Was on the road before 8, and bid adieu to Rocky Mountain National Park. Definitely need to get back here someday... with a kyack. So many lakes in the area, you could literally spend weeks trying every one.
Long day driving, that started out amazing as I took the 34 East to Loveland. The road followed the river, both cutting through mountains as we wound on down. Great little cabins along the way, and I fell more and more in love with Colorado.
Not so in love with the Colorado police, however, as I learned just a few miles South of the Wyoming border. I was just saying to Ed and Nancy, how there was NO way I'd get a ticket on this trip in my lumbering pickup. Jinx! Got pulled over for driving 76 in a 65... even though my cruise control was firmly set at 5 miles over the speed limit (as it had been for most of these 1st 1000 miles). The officer kindly disagreed, wrote me the citation, and I was back on the road in less than 15 minutes. Nifty little assembly line they've got.
Oh Well... no points on the AZ license, and not a horrible 77 dollar fee. (Just another stop for gas). I could fight it in a Fort Collins court room in October, but that's not very convenient, or economically prudent. Not really the way I wanted to start my trek through the barren wasteland that was Wyoming, so I stewed. Just a bit.
HUNDREDS of miles of flat, open space. Despite plenty of books on CD and podcasts, I got real punchy at about mile 300. Luckily, no rain, but I said more than a few times: "ENOUGH with Wyoming".
And finally, about mile 400, Wyoming got unbelievably beautiful. The snow-capped mountains came out of nowhere, filling up the horizon, telling me that Jackson and the Tetons were close.
Rivers, fields of wildflowers, and towering mountains. Wyoming saved all its scenery for the Northwest corner of the state. Crossed the Hoback and Snake Rivers a number of times as I made my final turn towards Jackson. Passed through town, and opted for the first of the Teton Campgrounds, Gros Ventre. Glad I did, as my 2nd choice, Colter Bay, was 30 miles further, and all full. Not to mention, the one I picked was beautiful. The "Tent Campers" have their own section, so no noisy generators in ear shot to power the trailers. Played some guitar, loving the breeze and sunlight filtering through the trees and tall grass.
The campground lies parallel to the Gros Ventre River, so after dinner I hiked down to its banks. Great spot, watching the wide river move. Seems like this is the time of year for swift-moving rapids. Every river, creek, and stream I've come up against on this road trip has been in a major hurry.
Before the light completely faded, I took a drive, following the Gros Ventre Road and getting a better vantage point of the Tetons. And a mile or so after I veered off the major street, I came upon a buffalo! So cool, seeing this magnificent, HUGE beast in the wild. Quietly pulled the truck up to the side of the road, rolled down the window, and took a few photos. Definitely kept the engine running though, just in case the buffalo got any funny ideas. Looked like it could take a door off with those horns.
And here I am, back at my campsite, finishing up my journal for today, listening to some Coltrane on the satellite radio. I feel just amazing. Perfect temps, and the truck is ready for an early departure tomorrow. Another long drive in the works, about 500 miles, but I'll pass through the heart of the Tetons, Yellowstone, and finally Montana.
DAY 11 - "Whitefish, Montana"
Packed up after another solid night sleeping in the truck. Big drive to Montana ahead of me, I was on the road by 7. Definitely another chilly morning, and I switched on the truck's heater for the first time in God knows how long. Worked like a charm. Took the road deep through the Tetons National Park, slowly winding my way north. Bumped right up against the jagged mountain range, which resembled a long line of sharp, crooked teeth. Found a small, one way road off the beaten path that led me to Jenny Lake. Magnificent.
Very few people at the lake and out on the roads at this early hour. So glad I didn't attempt this beautiful drive at the end of last night's 480 mile trip. I would have been way too punchy to enjoy it as much. But I felt great this morning, even with a huge drive ahead of me. Finally connected the Sirius Satellite Radio to my truck's stereo, and it kept me sane for another 400+ mile day.
Grabbed a shower at the Colter Bay campground, and walked out feeling like a million bucks. It had been a couple days. The road left the Tetons and entered Yellowstone, where I finally found some traffic. Yellowstone was nice and crowded during this peak summer season, and add to that a recently burned out forest, and I almost immediately preferred the Tetons.
Stopped to watch Old Faithful blow up, because I guess you have to? Just didn't realize I had to sit (with hundreds of others) for an hour waiting for it. But finally the geyser went off, we all ooh'ed and ahh'ed, and I made a break for it after hitting the Old Faithful Lodge for a snack. Back on the road, I checked out some beautiful pools of bubbling hot water (so many parts of the park were simmering and steaming), and I headed out.
Long drive through Montana after finishing Yellowstone, but the satellite radio did wonders to keep my spirits up. Just south of my cousin Chris' place in Whitefish, I drove along the banks of Flathead Lake. Very impressive. Reminded me of Lake Tahoe, with it's blue waters and forested mountains dotting the perimeter.
450 miles in, and time to get punchy again. I was cruising along just fine, but ran into heavy construction traffic right near the end. Bit my lip and slowed down, and finally met my cousin at her friends' house, right on the shores of Whitefish Lake.
So good to see Chris... it had been about 5 years, and the two kids she had with her, Dane and Ava (Nicole was at summer camp) were older and super cool. Ava latched onto me, literally, almost as soon as I arrived. Just a great night, hanging out with everybody. Chris' friend, Shellan, cooked up a feast, and a huge storm rolled in off the lake just as we sat down to eat.
The power went out, and we ate by candlelight... couldn't have scripted it better. The wind and rain were knocking the boats around outside, and they said in the 10 years of living on Whitefish Lake, they'd never seen it so bad. Rob, Shellan's husband, was worried about losing the ski boat, as it was tossed against the dock, but admitted there wasn't much he could do.
After dinner and a couple glasses of wine, I played guitar for the kids and adults, and headed back to Chris' place to crash.
DAY 12 - "Whitefish"
What a great place. Feels like I'm in a dream. Woke up in the huge, comfortable bed in the guest bedroom after some amazing, uninterrupted sleep. I drove Chris and the kids to the airport in neighboring Kalispell, where they were hopping on a plane to Portland. Said our goodbyes.. it was so good seeing them, if only for a day.
That meant I had her house, which was also right on the lake, all to myself. I headed back, stopping along the way for some java at Cowgirl Coffee, one of the many places Chris recommended I check out. After coffee, I took one of the kyacks out for a spin on the lake. Didn't get more than 3 docks down, where I happened upon one of the victims of last night's storm... a practically brand new ski-boat, sunk. Pretty wild, rowing past, to see all that cash sitting on the bottom of the lake. That's what insurance is for, right?
Cruised back, and hit up the country club across the street for a massage, and here I am, back at the house, trying to get tan on the back patio. Stunning day outside... the lake is calm, and they're raising the sunken ski-boat next door. Really need to hit up Glacier National Park tomorrow, which is just a few miles east of Whitefish. But it will be tough to leave this spot, I can't lie. How do you walk away from heaven?
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