DAY 13 - "Glacier"
Woke up early, after a night of fantastic sushi in downtown Whitefish. I actually found myself eager to step away from one paradise and into another, Glacier National Park. Headed just 25 miles east (passing a branch of First American Title on the way!) and entered the park.
Quickly merged onto the "Going to the Sun" Road, and followed that through most of the park. Stopped a few miles into the drive, and hiked about 5 miles to Avalanche Lake. I've graduated from black bear to grizzly, so I'm lucky to have a great cousin who supplied me with bear bells and bear spray... Thanks Chris!!!
Beautiful hike through the forest... finding clear blue streams and waterfalls along the way. Came out of the trees towards the end, and was rewarded with Avalanche Lake. The lake was beautiful, but I couldn't keep my eyes off the cliff on the far side, with huge waterfalls cascading down the rocks. At least three of them. Hung out a bit, stunned, before turning back.
More "Going to the Sun". The road winds up over narrow mountain passes, past countless waterfalls, and of course, past glaciers. Halfway into the 53 mile drive, I stopped at the summit, Logan's Pass. Amazing visitor center up there, that looked as if it was being devoured by a huge, sliding glacier. Even saw my first bit of Glacier wildlife at Logan, a large white mountain goat, resting by the side of the road.
The ranger at the Logan Pass visitor center recommended I head to the end and check out the east side of the park, and Many Glacier. She sold me on it, and glad she did. Dropping down from the summit, I slid past St. Mary's Lake, and had to hop out to take it all in. St. Mary's highlight is definitely Goose Island, a tiny stand of trees in the middle of the huge, blue lake.
Popped out of the park on the east side, and jumped back in, a little further north, on my way to Many Glacier. Definitely less populated than the west end of Glacier National Park, and drove over some pretty rough roads to get there. But at the end, I was amazed. Another lake, tucked in under some impressive mountains, and all tied together with an incredible old lodge. Just didn't expect to see that at the end of my journey. Headed into the hotel to explore, snatching up some postcards and a bumper sticker for the truck, and opted for a pint of Heaven's Heffe at the bar.
Rather wished I had known about this place in advance. I would have totally reserved a room. It's right on the lake, and seeing people kyack and canoe out there made me just a bit jealous. But I had a different paradise already waiting for me over the mountains, so I made my way back along "Going to the Sun" road. Saw a few more mountain goats, and just inhaled Montana. Windows down.... perfect air, pure bliss. "Montana Haze".
Made it back to the house in Whitefish just before 9 (which was still plenty bright enough), and picked up some killer bbq from Piggyback's for dinner before bed.
DAY 14 - "Whitefish"
After a full day exploring Glacier, I relaxed at my cousin's place on the lake. I kyacked for an hour or so after breakfast, and met up with Shellan and Rob. They swung by my dock and picked me up on their ski-boat, which survived the crazy storm from the other night. We then spent much of the afternoon bouncing across the waves of Whitefish Lake. Perfect, warm temps, both air and sea.
The highlight was learning how to wake surf. Basically, you ride a surf board just behind the boat, and if you do it right, you can drop the tow rope and surf in the wake indefinitely. After a few tries, I got the gist, and was smiling like a little kid up there on that board.
Spent the rest of the day playing guitar on the deck, catching up on emails, and soaking up the sun. Grabbed some dinner at a spot down the road, and took a drive up Big Mountain, behind Chris' house. Cool drive... all winter ski runs and snow lodges up there.
Early to bed tonight, as I'll make another Glacier excursion tomorrow morning, and enjoy my last full day in Paradise, Montana.
DAY 15 - "The Tip of Glacier / Final Day in Whitefish"
Sitting on the shores of Kintla Lake, just 5 miles south of the Canadian border, and the apex of Glacier National Park. Decided to take the long dirt road on the back side of the park today, traveling north past Polebridge. Kintla Lake and campground are WAY off Glacier's beaten path. Such a perfect, rustic campground, on a small, glacier-blue lake. No boats with motors allowed, gas or electric, so it would be ideal for a canoe. In fact, here comes one right now.
Got the truck nice n' dusty on the drive back, and stopped at the saloon in Polebridge for lunch. I quickly discovered that food service didn't start until 4 pm. A shame, because the menu looked fantastic... elk, bison, etc. Too nice outside to get back in the truck, I read for a bit, out on the saloon's front porch. Sipped a cold beer, keeping company with an old black dog who was passed out next to me.
Stopped for groceries before heading back to the cabin, and hung out on the beach one last time while I did some laundry. Another perfect day in Whitefish, and it will be no easy task to leave tomorrow. But the road is calling for me to head west. Mount Rainier, Olympic National Park, and a wedding in downtown Portland all await in the next week.
That's all for now, everybody. This trip has just been incredible, and I'm happy to have y'all along for the ride!
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