Saturday, November 8. Leaving Rome.
Here I am, on Day 30 of this European adventure. Feelin' real good this morning. My room at the Hotel Piemonte was a bit noisy, but I had no problem sleeping. Checked out, and was pleasantly surprised to find that they opened the restaurant for breakfast earlier than posted. Inhaled some granola and coffee, and walked the 10 minutes to my train, where I now sit. Another beautiful morning in Italy.
I have two neighbors in my train compartment built for 6. The woman started speaking very kindly in Italian to me.. I smiled and gave her "non capisco" and "parla inglese?", but no dice. Really wish I spoke Italian (and German, and Czech, and Japanese. Not Dutch). She kept talking to me, even after the other passenger told her "inglese!". I can't speak it, but I love hearing it. She finally gave up on me, and started up a conversation with the other rider.
On my way to La Spezia this morning, about 4 hours NW of Rome. From there, I'm (kind of) winging it, and will search for Cinque Terre, a collection of 5 seaside villages, separated by vineyards. Comes highly recommended by Joe back in London, as well as a number of people I've met along my travels. We'll see if I can actually find it... I just barely learned how to spell it.
Train's moving up the coast now... the Mediterranean outside my window. Ah, Italy. The sea is calm. Passing old beatup seatowns, and a sparkling, shiny new cruise ship in Civitavecchia. Wow... multiple cruise ships! And an aircraft carrier to keep them company. Quite the port town, but mostly industrial, from what I can see.
Stopping in Grosseto, almost halfway there. I like taking these train trips during the day... being able to actually see the countryside. Some people swear by the overnight trains... if it's the only option for some of the longer hauls, I guess that's fine. But if there's time, I'll take the day train.
So I found Cinque Terre. And I'm sitting on a stone bench, with the sea to my right, and my town, Manarola, to the left. This is a special place, no doubt, and a perfect way to get the exhaust of Rome out of my lungs.
Cinque Terre IS that collection of 5 mountain villages, with vineyards running between town and sea. The 10 minute train ride from La Spezia dropped me off at the first town, Riomaggiore, and I walked the seaside path to the 2nd town, Manarola. I took the hike with a couple American guys I had met on the train. Luckilly, I borrowed their guide book, to quickly get a good hotel idea and to learn that skipping the 1st town is the way to go.
I reached Manarola in no time, to find a little main street district, with coffee shops and restaurants. Found one of the recommended hotels and checked in. Dropped my bag, and continued on with the Americans, hoping to find the third town. Unfortunately, the main path was shut down due to landslides beyond Manarola, so I split up from the guys, who pressed on to locate the secondary trail, and I explored a small cemetary along the trail. My train ticket is still good all day, and a shuttle runs between all 5 towns. But right now, I sit on my perch, above the sea, enjoying a can of Italian beer.
Very light crowds here in Manarola, and most of the people I've encountered seem to be American. So it looks like this place is still a bit of a secret, or maybe because it's the down season. Down season or not, the weather is warm and beautiful, with a breeze coming in off the sea. Big clouds are moving this way, so if it rains, I'll be able to find shelter, somewhere close.
The rain was holding back, so I hopped the train at the station in my village, and rode it 5 minutes, 2 towns down, to Vernazza. Supposedly the wealthiest of the villages, it looks very similar to Manarola, only a bit larger. I walked down to the pier, to watch the sunset with some other tourists, and one local black cat (I've notice many stray cats out and about in Cinque Terre). On the way, I picked up some pesto bruscetta at the nearbye pizzeria. Cheap, and AMAZING. The area is known for its pesto and olive oil, and they ain't kidding.
It's times like these when I wished I smoked cigars. After returing to Manarola, I feasted on an incredible dinner at the tratorria down the hill from my hotel. Fresh octopus is another specialty, and I loaded up on it with a seafood salad, followed by excellent spaghetti and tomatoe sauce. Friendly service, and after an espresso, I walked the 50 yards to the sea. I'm sitting on a bench built into the overlook, listening to the waves hit, far below. The sleepy little town is starting to shut down for the night, as a fishing boat is heading out to sea. It's turned chilly, but not cold. This might be paradise... again.
Finished the night on the back patio of my 2nd floor hotel room, listening to Billie Holiday, and the sounds of lovers laughing in the alley below. A large hill towers above me, lined with trails amongst the vineyards, visible in the moonlight. I can smell wood smoke, and I see stars! Haven't seen stars in awhile.
No traffic. No sirens. Very few people. Can't believe I was buried in the chaos of Rome, just this morning. Seems like days ago.
Sunday. Leaving Cinque Terre. Leaving Italy.
Long night of uninterrupted sleep. Sunny morning, with clouds building out over the sea. Walked down to the pier for crepes and cappachino at one of the trattoria. Not much else open, but the food was good, and I've got the sea over my right shoulder. Moving on to town 5 of 5 today, where I'll spend my last night in Italy. France coming up next!
Whoops! Change of plans. I learned that the trains were going on strike tonight, throughout Italy, so I had to decide within about 30 seconds at the reservation booth what to do. The short-fused lady selling tickets was getting extremely annoyed with me, so I'm going to Nice today! It looks like rain in Cinque Terre anyway.
I really would have liked to stay an extra night (or 30), but that would have meant I wouldn't get to Paris till Wednesday evening, only giving me two full days there. So we'll see about Nice, where I'll spend 2 nights instead of 1. I've heard mixed opinions about the city... but it is on the sea, and a straight shot up to Paris.
So farewell, Italy...
More beautiful scenery on my train to Genova, where I'll connect to Nice. Hugging the coastline, passing through more of the quaint, mountain villages, similar in scope to Cinque Terre. Incredible bays... looks like more money, as the docked boats look more and more impressive. And now... I enter France.
Long train ride today... I found myself a bit impatient, but we finally rolled into Nice about 5 pm. Grabbed a map at the tourist info booth, and walked a few blocks towards the center of town. Settled for a decent looking hotel, and walked to the shoreline. Very close, maybe a 15 minute walk, and found a sushi place for dinner. Amazing meal. Best sushi by far since I got to Europe. Walked up and down the main drag after dinner... large pedestrain only outdoor mall, and many people out and about. Mostly restaurants and tourist traps, but all-in-all, Nice looks like a decent place to layover a couple days.
Went to bed early, falling asleep to French "Scooby-Doo". The Harlem Globetrotters episode. Professional women's handball is also on. Guess I'll just read...
Monday. Nice.
Today, is my, day, OFF. And Nice ain't half bad! It's very easy... 15 minute walk from train station to hotel, 5 minutes from my hotel to the beach, through plenty of restaurants and coffee shops. I found one of the latter, just out of the way, with the sea a few steps to my right. The weather here is perfect, and my legs still ache from all the hiking in Cinque Terre (and Rome, and Venice, and and and and). So it's nice to officially take a day off.
So what does one do on his day off in Europe? I read the paper, did some laundry, hung out on a park bench, watching the waves. Did the crossword puzzle. Read a book, out on my balcony (my 6th floor hotel room has a killer terrace). Watched some news. Mailed some postcards. And I did NOT get on a train.
Tuesday. Leaving Nice.
Early start this morning. I wanted a later train to Paris, but the 6:32 am departure was the only one left. That's a first; on this whole trip I have had no issue getting the trains I wanted. Oh well... gives me more time to get oriented in Paris. Sitting upstairs right now, on my train's 2nd deck... 6 hour ride ahead of me. The sun has yet to rise.
Paris! I think I just might dig this town. Very easy to navigate the Metro (subway), just so long as you've got a Metro Map. Hopped off my train at Station de Lyon, and two trams later I was a quick walk to my hostel, St. Christopher's.
Very nice, new building, with a slick bar downstairs called Belushi's (with over-priced beer). I checked in after using the free wi-fi, and met one of my roomies, a cool Irish woman named Tanya. Found out she's meeting her other friends, who are also our roomies, and heading to the MGMT concert in downtown Paris tomorrow night. She said come along... would love to go, if it's not sold-out. I missed those guys when they opened for Beck back in Phoenix.
Met a few cool folks from the states down in the hostel's internet cafe. Chatted for awhile, and then Kelsey, a girl from Arkansas, and I headed to the Latin Quarter. She wanted to hit up a particular restaurant, and I was happy to get outside. Great little place... I had a very decent tuna and anchovy salad, and we strolled down the banks of the Seine River, stopping outside the walls of Notre Dame Cathedral. Kelsey had to catch a night train, so I headed back home on a long subway ride.
Wednesday. Paris.
Between my roommate's snoring (the only other guy in the room), and an early morning jackhammer outside my window, I didn't get much sleep. Hopefully, I'll survive the walking tour that starts outside the hostel this morning. Hanging out in the cafe, sipping coffee, listening to reggae music over the hostel sound system. The breakfast... well let's just say it was free: cocoa crispies (?!) and bread. But the coffee is quite good.
It's funny... Tanya, my roommate from Dublin, made an intresting point last night. All the Americans traveling Europe, present company included, when asked the question "Where are you from?", answer multiple places. Example: "Well, I was born in Michigan, but I've been living in Arizona for the past 10 years". Answering "I'm from the States" isn't good enough.
Spent 3 hours today on a cool walking tour of Paris. The rain held back, but it was very cold. We kicked things off back in the Latin Quarter, and got some history on Notre Dame. It was the first building in the world to use flying buttresses, and is where Napoleon crowned himself emperor. We passed by the Police Headquarters, complete with World War II French Resistance bullet holes, when the Nazis occupied the city, and caught some glimpses of the Eiffel Tower. Plenty of cool Henry the 4th history followed us along our walk, and we paused in front of the "Obelisk", where the infamous French guillitene once stood. So many people were executed here, it's said, that horses wouldn't go near the area.
We capped off the tour with Napoleon's fountains, a walk down the infamous Avenue des Champs Elyssees, and the impressive Arc De Triomphe. I split up from the group with a few Americans, so we could check out the Arc close up. Underneathe was the Eternal Flame, which we learned about on the tour. The four of us headed back to the Latin Quarter, to check out the inside of Notre Dame, and so I could find a hotel for the next couple nights. From what I'd seen, touring Paris, the Latin Quarter seemed like the coolest spot to wrap up my trip. After checking out some amazing stained glass inside Notre Dame, we split up, and I found a good hotel in the center of the Quarter. Headed back to the hostel to clean up.
Back at Saint Christopher's, I met up with my Irish roommates, who were already partying, getting ready for the MGMT concert. Hung out in the room for a bit, and then moved the festivities upstairs, to merge with another Irish contingent. About a dozen of them, and super friendly, and I felt pretty cool being the token American in the group. They were convinced I could get into the sold out show, so I followed along as we hopped a few subways to the venue. I'll never forget those rides... the crew would sing at the top of its lungs, but only English songs so the frightened Parisian passengers wouldn't think they were Irish. I just smiled and watched the show.
Arrived at the venue, to find only one guy out front scalping one ticket. His starting price? About 150 bucks American. I laughed him off and started bidding farewell to my Irish friends. It would have been great to hang out with them some more, but I'm not that big of a MGMT fan, and I wanted to check out the Eiffel Tower up close, when it was all lit up. So back to the subway I go...
There's a guy playing french horn on the subway. An audience of maybe a dozen. It's hard enough to stand on the subway without holding onto some sort of hand rail, and this guy's carrying a decent tune. That's the guy I'll give some spare change to. But alas... he's out the door before I can donate. These subway performers move FAST.
I was blown away by the Eiffel Tower tonight. It's truly the way to see it: after dark, and all lit up in spectacular blue. At the top of the hour, it turns into a giant light show.... I believe to honor France's current status as head of the European Union. Very pretty...
I dig Paris. Really didn't think I would, but I do. The Metro system is very easy to nail down, so getting around is no sweat. And my favorite area so far is the Latin Quarter, where I'll be moving to tomorrow night. But that leaves tonight: my last night in a European hostel. The little quirks of sharing a room with strangers aside, the hostels have really served me well. Soooo cheap, and the best way to spend the first couple days in a new city while getting oriented. That's not to say finishing a city in a decent hotel isn't a pretty good thing as well.
Thursday. Paris.
Just had the nicest shower, in all of Europe. The shower head was tall enough, the pressure was great, and the stall was big enough to stretch out. That's a little piece of heaven. I'm so thankful to be done with the hostel, and very thankful that my new hotel in the Latin Quarter let me check in early, for the best shower in Europe.
St. Christopher's Hostel wasn't bad... I really liked my Irish roommates. But the snoring guy in the bunk below mine drove me to the edge. Last night was worse than the first. Not much sleep. But I lugged my gear on two subways, and arrived in the Latin Quarter. And here I am, enjoying post-shower bliss, watching the only English channel available.
Really digging the Latin Quarter. Cheap restaurants, used book stores, and great jazz clubs... all packed in together. The Seine and Notre Dame are a short walk away, as is the Louvre, which I'm attempting today. Picked up a delicious crepe from a stand near the hotel, watching the owner prepare it before my very eyes (which is the best way to go in Paris). Ate my lunch on the walk to the Louvre, under sunny skies.
Very modern entrance to the Louvre, through an underground shopping mall, and past an inverted, glass pyramid (straight out of "The DaVinci Code". There are other ways into the massive museum, but our tour guide yesterday recommended this way to beat the crowds. She was right: no lines, and within 5 minutes of entering, I stood in front of the "Mona Lisa".
And there she is, hovering on the huge wall, all on her own. I learned a little Mona history yesterday on the tour. I wasn't aware that DaVinci really didn't paint that much... basically painting was almost a hobby-on-the-side for him. I like hitting the Mona first, so I can wander around aimlessly for a few hours with no particular direction (you'd need months to cover the entire museum).
The Louvre didn't really do it for me. It's impressive, of course... it's the Louvre! And not a bad place to wander around, listening to the iPod. But something I've learned after hitting up the Chicago Art Institute back in August, is that I definitely prefer modern art. The religious paintings throughout the Lourvre lack that surrealism I crave... just give me something abstract instead of an elaborate recreation. It's just not my cup of tea. Give me London's Tate Modern museum any day.
I had more subway performers this morning. Guy got on at one of the stops with his 10 year old daughter. He starts shouting in French, looking agitated, but then hits the button on a hidden stereo, and the girl starts rapping! And she's good! He joins in for a couple verses, but it's her show. They perform like this for no more than 2 stops, and they disappear into the station crowds. Wild.
After checking out of the Louvre, I moved down the Seine a few blocks and stopped in a cafe for some coffee, and finished Hemingway's "The Sun Also Rises". Fitting spot, although I might have to buy another book to tide me over until I return to the States on Tuesday. All I have left is finishing "Omnivore's Dilema" (yawn).
Continued my Paris museum hopping, and stepped into Musee d'Orsay. It comes very highly recommended, even more so than the Louvre, and I could see why. Located in an old train station, the building itself is a work of art. Such a cool layout. Very open, and excellent pieces on display. Hung out for hours, as the sun went down.
Huge collection of Monets. Really like this kind of work... Renoir, too. Impressionism left its mark on me. What a cool museum. I walked slowly back to the Latin Quarter and wandered around for awhile. Grabbed a light dinner of cheese and wine, and browsed one of the many bookstores nearbye. Feels like a lot is happening on the streets of the Latin Quarter. My soul wants to play some more, but my aching legs are begging for mercy. I need a big pile of sleep tonight... so back to the hotel room I retire.
Friday. Paris.
Big pile of sleep = 10 hours. Wow, did I need that. Taking my time this morning... breakfast in the hotel. Strolled to an internet cafe a few doors down to upload some pictures, and stopped for lunch at an Irish pub. Great food and better service. Turned a bit gray outside, so I stuck around for awhile. Read the paper, and loaded up on a big bowl of Irish stew. Perfect choice for a cold dark day in Paris.
And ah, I saved the best for last... Paris' Musee National d'Art Moderne. The modern art museum, and definitely my cup of tea. Very cool building, surrounded by what looks like a giant habitrail. I spent much of the afternoon checking out just one of the galleries, and it really stirred up the creative juices. Loved the Dation Atlans and of course the Pollocks. There were also many works by Picasso, and while I'm not a huge fan, I loved his "Le Guitariste" from 1910 and "Buste de Femme" from 1909.
It's my last night in Paris. And I am ready to get home. A bit bored this evening... really would like to just stay in the hotel, but it's early. I finished my (good) book, and the only English channel on my hotel's TV is playing snooker. Snooker... this is a version of billiards, only more annoying. I strolled around the Latin Quarter, ate some bad sushi, and wished people spoke English.
It's been nice here in Paris. I loved the modern art museum today, and the people have generally been pretty cool. But I can say it: I'm ready to go home. I have 3 days back in London, and the United States will be mine again on Tuesday. I need a dose of familiarity.
Saturday. Leaving Paris.
My need to get home has hit me like a freight train in the last 24 hours. I'm just getting a bit impatient. Don't get me wrong... Paris is a great city... I'm just weary from the constant traveling... this routine of non-routine. It is time to get HOME.
Took the subway from my hotel to the Gare du Nord train station, passed customs, and boarded my EuroStar to London. A quick 3 hours, through the Chunnel, and I was back in the UK. Pretty amazing transportation they've got in Europe (where are the high speed Phoenix to Los Angeles trains???). After a ride in the Underground, I took the train back to West Dulwich, where this European adventure began, back on October 9th. Here it is November the 15th, and I walked back to the cozy house on Clive Road. So great to see Joe and Lowri and little Ella again...
"Been livin' out of this here suitcase for way too long. Man needs somethin' he can hold onto." - Ray LaMontagne
Tuesday. Leaving Europe.
I'm on my way home! The last day in Europe has been set in motion. The rain held back as I walked to the West Dulwich rail station, luggage in tow. Two transfers and a little over an hour later, and I stepped into Heathrow airport's Terminal 5. Checked my bags (glad to be rid of them), and grabbed one last London meal of fish n' chips. Just an hour or so, and my British Airways jet will be launching me back home to Arizona, USA.
Last couple days in cold grey London were real nice.... very relaxed.... which was right up my alley. Took the train over to Brixton yesterday and caught a double feature. It had been awhile since I'd gone to the movies. Hung out on Sunday night with Joe, playing guitars at an open mike jam the Mansion pub was holding down the block. Slept great in the house, in their cozy first floor lounge, complete with gas fireplace to keep me warm. And as if Lowri and Joe hadn't spoiled me enough, we had a few more amazing home-cooked meals to wrap up my trip.
And here I am... back home, in Arizona. I'm glad to be back amongst friends and family and familiar sights and sounds, but I definitely miss Europe. So many of the places I visited, I'd head back to in a heartbeat... Venice, Cinque Terre, and Prague stand out as my favorites, not to mention the amazing people in Germany. But it all was so fantastic, and I count myself truly blessed to have had such an incredible opportunity. An opportunity to step outside the box, get off the grid, and see a bit more of the world.
I hope to hear from you soon, and that 2009 will treat you right. Finally, I can't thank you all enough for following me along on these adventures. Cheers!!!
