Europe Part 5 - Venice

Sunday. Leaving Vienna.

Woke up at 4 this morning. It didn't hurt as much as I had feared, and I actually pulled off some decent sleep, my last night in Austria. I'm headed to Italy, with a couple nights in Venice before I conquer Rome. Originally planned on skipping Venice, but Kai and Missy, my gracious Vienna hosts, convinced me that it was well worth it.

I had a brief scare on the way to the train station. Kai had given me great directions... bus to Hutteldorf train station, U-Bahn to Karsplatz Station, and finally the D-Tram to Sudbahnhof, where I'd catch my train to Venice. Pretty simple. But I wasn't counting on the bus driver at the start, asking me where I was going, and telling me he had a BETTER way. Here we go!

He was quite outspoken, from Serbia, and kept talking about bombs and concerts from years past. Since I was the only one on the bus, I was a captive audience, and assumed my plans to Italy had just drastically changed. But it all worked out fine. I'm not sure I really saved any time, but I made it to my final station with 20 minutes to spare.

Taking international trains in Europe is very easy... you don't need to be there 2 hours early like you do when flying. No security checks, all luggage is carry-on, and nobody is checking a passport. You just walk right onto your train, and show your ticket once it starts moving. And here I am, about ready to pass through the Alps on my 7 hour ride to Venice. It's a bit foggy outside, but my coach is half full, the seats are very comfortable, and my iPod is humming. Life is good.

The sun is out... we've risen above the mist. Oh my. It's like I'm riding through a scene from the "Sound of Music". Beautiful mountains rolling by, as we cruise up and over the Austrian Alps. Took a walk up the train to the dining car to enjoy some breakfast with the view. These Austrian hilltowns are just unreal. Snow-capped peaks, livestock wandering on huge green pastures, rivers and streams and mountain lakes, and the sleepy villages, with the occassional chimney blowing smoke. Huge lake to my left, dotted with cottages. I could be in Montatna, if it weren't for the random signs in German. This is between Klagenfurt and Villach, about half hour away from the Italian border.

This definitely is the most picturesque train ride yet. Crossed into Italy, and the mountains are larger than life... just outside my window. Following a wide, rushing river, near Udine, about an hour and 1/2 outside Venice. And then as I dropped down, everything turned California outside! Palm trees... vineyards. And it looks warm... (whatever warm looks like).
"Best friend you'll have is a railroad track..." --- Tom Waits.

Ah Venice. My train stopped at the Mestre Station, where I walked across the street to Hotel Bologna, a Best Western affiliate that Kai and Missy recommended. Very nice room (even with a bidet!). I literally put my bag down, walked back to the station, and took the 10 minute train to the heart of Venice. And there's the water... big and inviting, almost tropical.

A glass of red, surrounded by Venice, on a corner along one of the main alleys, in Campo S. Sofia. The Italian language sounds soooo fantastic. So musical. I've been wandering the past hour, snapping way too many pictures of way too many amazing canals. I need to put the camera away and just breathe. I could get used to this. The skies are overcast, but the air is warm. Almost don't even need the jacket. Reminds me (again) of Southern California, and the marine layer that settles over the beach towns.

Ahh Venice. Ahh McDonald's? I was just thinking that I might actually not see a Mickey D's here, and then not a minute later, there it is. And it's packed. In Venice. I give up... they are EVERYWHERE. I'll let you know when I see the Starbucks.

Got lost as the sun went down. Wandered through the Cannaregio District, before spending most of my time in the San Marco. Kai and Missy said the Piazza at San Marco was a must see, so I made that my "cheese" at the end of the maze. And when I finally stumbled into the plaza, from one of many narrow alleys, I was astonished. Piazza San Marco is HUGE... just incredible that a space so vast lies at the end of so many skinny passageways. I floated... checking out the tower, watching the people and catching a few tunes from one of the bands set up at an outdoor cafe. Found my way back towards the train station, basically following a trail of beautiful churches.

Ahhh Venice. Ahh it's nice to sit down after losing myself for a few hours, along the canals and back alleys. I'm having a veggie pizza in this narrow little cafe, an alley off an alley, and I LOVE hearing the Italian. The beautiful young barmaid, the old regular who stopped in for chips (and I think to flirth with the young barmaid). Can't help but smile. Solid pizza, too. And I think I found a slick little hotel for tomorrow night, in the heart of Venice.

I'm in Italy. No confusing it for Germany, that's for sure. I did that too often in Austria. And I love the vibe in this little pizzeria. The owner just stopped the music to turn up the volume on the F-1 auto race playing on his tv. Ahh Venice. Ahhhh Italy.

It turned foggy along the Grande Canal as I walked back to the train station. It was only about 8 pm, but after waking up so early that morning, my legs were about finished. 10 minutes back to Mestre Station, a few steps across the street, and I was in my bed at the Hotel Bologna.

Monday. Venice.

Had an amazing sleep in my sci-fi hotel room. Headed downstairs for a solid free breakfast, checked out, and took the train back to Venice's core, where I'd reserved a room at the Hotel Flora, near Piazza San Marco. Instead of walking it, this morning I dished out 16 euro for the 24 hour Vaporetto (water bus) card. A bit confisuing on which was the best boat to take to San Marco, but I chose wisely, and sped towards the hotel. Since there are no cars in Venice, and water taxis are astronomically expenisive, this is the best way to travel aside from walking.

Got off at Accademia, a stop along the Grande Canal before crowded San Marco, and walked to my hotel, tucked down a narrow alley off the main drag. Cool little room, but the highlight is the garden behind the hotel, where I now sit, enjoying a cappachino. Hotel Flora... fantastic location in the heart of Venice. A comfortable room, decent price... seems way too good to be true.

Wandered the streets and alleys around my hotel. I've got the Bvlgari shop next door just in case I want to buy some jewelry or watches or groceries. Branched out to a couple districts I'd yet to visit, San Polo and Santa Croce. Listening to the iPod... the sun's trying to poke through the clouds, and the temp is perfect. Resting on a bench in Campos Giacomo Da L'Orio.

After a few hours checking out the sights, walking the boardwalk near San Marco, and stopping for a lunch of delicious mini-sandwiches, I rested back at the hotel. Ahh, Venice. Ahhh Italian TV... dubbed MacGuyver and George Clooney shilling for Nespresso. This place, Venice, is going to seem like a dream after I've left. I love it when I have to stop, think, and remind myself just what country I'm in today.

Ahh Venice. Ahh Venice Jazz Club! I just walked into a quartet that's featuring the works of jazz pianist Bill Evans. This was a gamble tonight... I found the place on an earlier walk... down a back alley off one of the canals. Tiny place, expensive to get in, with the proverbial "Jazz" sign out front. But man did that gamble pay off. The band sounds super-tight, now covering a version of "Alice in Wonderland". This is a perfect way to cap my two nights in Venice. Venice, the dream.